What happened at your workbench today?

A new locomotive has arrived at the railway. This lovely Accucraft countess, the second steam engine at the railway after the Edrig. Not had it in steam but possibly one for the weekend if time allows
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I've had my 'Earless' since a week after they appeared in the stores. Mine is still manual in GWR green and much-loved as a reliable performer, especially after a £300 rebuild by old pal Dave Mees a couple of years ago. SLR make the most exquisite and correct GWR red and white side-lamps - they work, too!

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I got time this weekend to finish off this diesel, and a small rake of hoppers. All 3D printed, with the loc just given a wash over of muck. Wheels for the hoppers are old plastic LGB wheels, while the loco uses some Binnie copies I printed off. The motor is 12V, and this is just running off 3V for testing. There's space for a 9V battery and speed controller, and at that point, I will add the cab detail.

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Love the engine detail.
Where did the stl's come from?
 
Frustration, that is what has been on my workbench. Trying to get to the bottom of why the older crok wont run, it just splutters and dies after a while.

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Every component/ wire checks out individually, but when it's reassembled runs on the rolling road, but out on the railway, may do a couple of laps then just stop dead.
No lights/sound or movement, or response from the controller. Even pushing it yields now't, then it will be off again until the next stop, be that 10 ft or a 100 yards.

Looks as if it's going to be another strip down, not prepared to give up on it just yet, it was my first loco, and deserves more.
 
Every component/ wire checks out individually, but when it's reassembled runs on the rolling road, but out on the railway, may do a couple of laps then just stop dead.
No lights/sound or movement, or response from the controller. Even pushing it yields now't, then it will be off again until the next stop, be that 10 ft or a 100 yards.
Is it possible to swap the bogies from your newer Croc, either one at a time or both to see if the problem is bogie/motor related?
 
I have thought about new motors, but it's one of those pre DCC set ups, 3 to 4 pin conversion. It's not too difficult to do, but not a straightforward drop a new motor(s) in.
The motors were tested using a battery DC set up and are each drawing less than an amp under no load. But if it's the motors, why would everything else stop lights/sound/functions, to me it's more of a wiring or chip issue.

As for bogie swap, again the Crok has evolved so a different set up.
 
Infrastructure of the baseboards completed at last, next stage will be to start laying track and wiring it in.

An overall view

I admire your ability to add details like that even before everything is finished. I would have to relocate everything at least 3 times, to figure out I needed more space, or have calculated too much space, put signs in the wrong positions, had to add a wire or 10 during the build that were not quite calculated... you get my point...
 
Last couple of days between odd jobs i have been fixing up the Wood Yard log unloader for Silberhűtte that has suffered some abuse since building, the x bits are plastweld stuff that has had lots of strengthening plasticard put in place. Wagon in pic keeps getting some idd bits done as and when.
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I have yet to connect up my entire line, the stumbling block being a bridge; the alignment has changed, and the gap is smaller, so I can't use either of the two bridges (one 15mm/ft, one for 7/8ths stock). And the 15mm/ft one fell apart, which is a pity because it took a huge amount of time and effort (1500 Cambrian rivets!). So today, I dug out the parts, and there's more than I remembered:
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A few bits needed gluing back together:
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And then I went to B&Q for some squre aluminium tube, which got cut to size.20250911_171644.jpg
An on-site check shows that it should all fit, and also allowed me to check where to fit the cross-members:
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I fitted four pieces of □16 tube, and then added some inverted U-section aluminium that I had squirrelled away -it was the runner channel on a sliding wardrobe door, and looks more to-scale than the 16mm tube, so I may replace the latter. Everything is held together with self-tappers.
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A busy day spent on other tasks, but I  did manage a bit of time in the workshop...
Mostly measuring and trialling the position of aluminium angle to hold the track in place:
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I bought an assortment of tiny screws ages ago, and found the M1.4 ones were perfect for fixing the angle in place; they won't have much load on them.
A trip to the local hardware shop -we are lucky to have one- turned up a tin of proper, spirit-based impact adhesive ('You know your glues', as the man behind the counter said!) led to me fixing the superstructure (which is entirely decorative) in place. There is a rumour around these parts that I like a good clamp, me.
Can't think why... :think:
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To end the day, I selflessly returned to the fume-filled workshop and fitted the two side trims.
20250912_201917.jpg While I like the weathered appearance of the paintwork, the visible aluminium parts will need a fresh coat of red oxide, so it may be easier to blow the whole thing over whilst the rattle can is out; but that's a decision that can wait until tomorrow
 
Pass the new paint as a bridge refurbishment to extend its life
Mid Life Extension (MLE) as they say in military aviation.
 
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