What happened at your workbench today?

A new locomotive has arrived at the railway. This lovely Accucraft countess, the second steam engine at the railway after the Edrig. Not had it in steam but possibly one for the weekend if time allows
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I've had my 'Earless' since a week after they appeared in the stores. Mine is still manual in GWR green and much-loved as a reliable performer, especially after a £300 rebuild by old pal Dave Mees a couple of years ago. SLR make the most exquisite and correct GWR red and white side-lamps - they work, too!

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I got time this weekend to finish off this diesel, and a small rake of hoppers. All 3D printed, with the loc just given a wash over of muck. Wheels for the hoppers are old plastic LGB wheels, while the loco uses some Binnie copies I printed off. The motor is 12V, and this is just running off 3V for testing. There's space for a 9V battery and speed controller, and at that point, I will add the cab detail.

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Love the engine detail.
Where did the stl's come from?
 
Frustration, that is what has been on my workbench. Trying to get to the bottom of why the older crok wont run, it just splutters and dies after a while.

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Every component/ wire checks out individually, but when it's reassembled runs on the rolling road, but out on the railway, may do a couple of laps then just stop dead.
No lights/sound or movement, or response from the controller. Even pushing it yields now't, then it will be off again until the next stop, be that 10 ft or a 100 yards.

Looks as if it's going to be another strip down, not prepared to give up on it just yet, it was my first loco, and deserves more.
 
Every component/ wire checks out individually, but when it's reassembled runs on the rolling road, but out on the railway, may do a couple of laps then just stop dead.
No lights/sound or movement, or response from the controller. Even pushing it yields now't, then it will be off again until the next stop, be that 10 ft or a 100 yards.
Is it possible to swap the bogies from your newer Croc, either one at a time or both to see if the problem is bogie/motor related?
 
I have thought about new motors, but it's one of those pre DCC set ups, 3 to 4 pin conversion. It's not too difficult to do, but not a straightforward drop a new motor(s) in.
The motors were tested using a battery DC set up and are each drawing less than an amp under no load. But if it's the motors, why would everything else stop lights/sound/functions, to me it's more of a wiring or chip issue.

As for bogie swap, again the Crok has evolved so a different set up.
 
Can you run it with the body off?
When it stops, see if any of the chips on the decoder are hot, it might be thermal shutdown?

PhilP.
 
Infrastructure of the baseboards completed at last, next stage will be to start laying track and wiring it in.

An overall view

I admire your ability to add details like that even before everything is finished. I would have to relocate everything at least 3 times, to figure out I needed more space, or have calculated too much space, put signs in the wrong positions, had to add a wire or 10 during the build that were not quite calculated... you get my point...
 
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