Walk-Around Control System For PH Hobbies DC10

[trailsideGguy]

I'm a newbie to G scale and have inherited a bunch of engines, rolling stock, track and equipment. The former owners used a P.H. Hobbies DC10 transformer with an Aristo-Craft Train Engineer Walk-Around system. The transformer works but the walk-around system doesn't. Is there a walk-around system I can purchase that would be compatible with the DC10 or should I scrap everything and start over with something newer?

 

[Paul M]

Welcome to the forum, Trailside Guy. I can't help you I'm afraid, but there'll be some posting soon who can, no doubt

 

[dunnyrail]

Welcome to the forum Guy, have a look at the Piko remote system. They do variations for on track dead rail or track power. Possibly not for you if you want large lash ups of many diesels but fine for the single powered loco.

 

[trailsideGguy]

Welcome to the forum Guy, have a look at the Piko remote system. They do variations for on track dead rail or track power. Possibly not for you if you want large lash ups of many diesels but fine for the single powered loco.

Thanks for the reply dunnyrail. I'll take a look at Piko. Since the equipment I inherited has 6 engines I'd like to try them all out, With that in mind I'm thinking track power may be more cost-effective (for the short-run at least). BTW - I enjoyed the Trip round the DunnyNewBahn.

 

[dunnyrail]

Thanks for the reply dunnyrail. I'll take a look at Piko. Since the equipment I inherited has 6 engines I'd like to try them all out, With that in mind I'm thinking track power may be more cost-effective (for the short-run at least). BTW - I enjoyed the Trip round the DunnyNewBahn.

The Piko 35040 system could do either being used as a (relatively low powered admittedly at 5A) track power system but also migrating to an onboard for 1 locomotive should you go down that route. I have 1 loco currently using 35040 on board but am currently working on one for a friend and a second for myself. While I do not consider it to be as good as some of the other systems (I prefer FOSWORKS but also have Crest and Deltang), it is perfectly adequate and can access 2 sounds from a My Loco Sound unit.

Glad you enjoyed a trip round my line, a bit dated now and I keep saying I must do another. Alexisbad in the shed in particular is now fully scenic and many other buildings have populated the line since that vid.

 

[Fred2179G]

Is there a walk-around system I can purchase that would be compatible with the DC10

First, while I am not too familiar with the DC10, I have used the Aristo Train Engineer (TE) systems for years, and the latter expect a 12V-24V DC input. If you look at the small print on your DC10 it will probably say "Input xxVAC, Output 20VDC" or similar.
In other words, the DC10 is a standard railroad transformer and any throttle or walk-around system will work with it, as long as they are designed for the higher voltages associated with G-scale trains.
Checking the output of your DC10 is pretty easy - any multimeter or even a 24V bulb will tell you if it is producing the rated voltage.

That being said, you might want to take a close look at the Aristo TE. They are pretty robust and I know many layouts still using them after all these years. Two things to check - some versions of the TE receiver (RX) have a fuse clearly visible on the front. They also have a red LED that blinks when you push a button on the remote.
And finally, check the Aristo TE remote transmitter has a decent battery in it.

I googled "site:gscalecentral.net aristo train engineer" and got a lot of threads. Unless you are determined to junk it, I would suggest you glance at one or two.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Nice looking transformer with amp and volt gauges. Appears to be 26 volts max, nice basic power.

What about a GScaleGraphics throttle:

TrackSide R/C - 6th Generation

Custom Vinyl Lettering and Electronics for Garden Railroading

www.gscalegraphics.net

You have a nice small remote, and it will handle all 10 amps of your power.

Greg

 

[Dan]

Here is a link to George Schreyers site for PH hobbies information.

PH Hobbies Sound System Tips

 

[maxi-model]

I'm a newbie to G scale and have inherited a bunch of engines, rolling stock, track and equipment. The former owners used a P.H. Hobbies DC10 transformer with an Aristo-Craft Train Engineer Walk-Around system. The transformer works but the walk-around system doesn't. Is there a walk-around system I can purchase that would be compatible with the DC10 or should I scrap everything and start over with something newer?

As Fred says the Train Engineer (TE) is a good robust, if now "antiquated" system. Mine is still going strong after some 20 years. Do you have a manual for it ? If not I should be able to help you, dependent on version, mine is the later 10 amp/ten channel model. It might be simply that the handset is set to a different channel to that which it was originally bound to to operate the speed controller by the previous owner. This is a simple fix, as is the rebinding process between handset (TX) and speed controller (RX) if needed. Let us know if you want to try to get your TE working. A picture of your TE would help to isolate the version, they went through a few evolutions over the years. Max

Edit - More from George Schreyer's invaluable tips pages all a out the TE TE Programming

 

[Greg Elmassian]

This page has details on the various versions.

27 MHz Train Engineer

Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers

elmassian.com

Greg

 

[trailsideGguy]

The DC10 is a 115 VAC 180VA box . The AC Train Engineer which came with the equipment is a 1996 2 channel version. The transmitter is the 27 MHz 'crafted in China' model shown in Greg Elmassian's Train Engineer overview and the receiver is identical to the one he also has pictured (I tried to attach a photo of everything previously mentioned but the image was too large). The reason I'm thinking the Train Engineer equipment may not be working is I've synced the transmitter with the receiver by simultaneously pressing the transmitters 'A' and 'B' buttons along with the receiver's Code Set button as per the instructions. When I press a command such as 'Fast' on the transmitter after syncing, the receiver's Code Signal light doesn't flash. From the instructions I understand that this light should flash every time a signal is sent from the transmitter. I still tried connecting the TE to the track just for grins but nothing happened. Am I doing something wrong or is this equipment toast?

 

[JimmyB]

The DC10 is a 115 VAC 180VA box . The AC Train Engineer which came with the equipment is a 1996 2 channel version. The transmitter is the 27 MHz 'crafted in China' model shown in Greg Elmassian's Train Engineer overview and the receiver is identical to the one he also has pictured (I tried to attach a photo of everything previously mentioned but the image was too large). The reason I'm thinking the Train Engineer equipment may not be working is I've synced the transmitter with the receiver by simultaneously pressing the transmitters 'A' and 'B' buttons along with the receiver's Code Set button as per the instructions. When I press a command such as 'Fast' on the transmitter after syncing, the receiver's Code Signal light doesn't flash. From the instructions I understand that this light should flash every time a signal is sent from the transmitter. I still tried connecting the TE to the track just for grins but nothing happened. Am I doing something wrong or is this equipment toast?

The Txs are prone to failure, and seem to be the weak link in that system, a little bit of damp seems to be the end of the line for the Tx.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

The DC10 is a power supply only.... as far as I can determine... there are other similar models that start with PS not DC... and PH hobbies made sound systems too.

It seems that some confusion has ensued, the control system is a Crest (by Aristo Craft) 27 MHz system, that is the remote control part.

the 180 VA box referenced is most likely a PS10:

https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images1/1/0717/23/ph-hobbies-ps10g-180va-hobby_1_4c3f84c8fcab64d234dbe409d387b8a8.jpg

Anyway, as state the Crest Train Engineer are robust units, sometimes the transmitters just need disassembly and cleaning, sometimes the keyboard.

How was it detrmined that the OP has a 2 channel system? I can't seem to find his post or picture stating this.

In any case, once the model is determined, looking on ebay or the face book groups will probably bear fruit, since there are many in the USA.

Greg

 

[trailsideGguy]

Attached are pictures of the equipment. In my previous post (see TrailsideGguy at 9:59 AM today (Monday)) I detailed the equipment and mentioned the process I went through to try and get the TE to work. Is the TE toast?

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Great that helps.... when you get time, can I have a picture of the front of the power supply, just for my archives? Want to see the front panel and model number.

In any case you have the old 2 channel unit.


So, step by step, change the batteries in the transmitter. Check the contacts while you are in there.

Greg

 

[trailsideGguy]

Attached is everything written on the power pack. The transmitter is working fine (new batteries, cleaned contacts and keyboard inside and out). The green light on the transmitter turns on when any of the buttons on the keyboard are pushed. Followed instructions to sync the transmitter and receiver. But, when I send a command from the transmitter (e.g. Fast) the code signal light on the receiver does not turn on (indicating it's receiving a signal from the transmitter) and nothing happens to any engine I place on the track.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Thanks, that is really the no frills power supply!

P.H. Hobbies made a lot of different models and versions of power supplies, remote controllers and sound units.

Back to the situation:

1. the green light might be coming on but it still might not be transmitting.
2. I assume you have measured the power supply output to make sure you are getting voltage (and what is it?)
3. check the fuse at the base station

Greg

 

[phils2um]

Are you sure you've got the right terminals connected between the Crest and and power supply? The terminal on the power supply is not very clearly labelled. Does the Crest receiver/track power controller have a pilot light indicating it is actually getting power?

Edit added - a further look seems to indicate OK connections on the power supply. Are the the two PS +/- outputs in parallel or independent? Both working?

 

[trailsideGguy]

Thank YOU, I appreciate the help!
Power supply output measures 30V from the +/- terminals I've connected the TE receiver to. A visual inspection of the fuse on the TE receiver seems to indicate it's fine. I'm figuring it's ok too since the receiver power light comes on when the TE receiver power switch is turned on. The antenna on the transmitter seems to be good. I cleaned the contact point where the antenna connects to the circuit board to make sure there's a good connection. Is there any way to determine if the transmitter is indeed transmitting a signal?

 

[trailsideGguy]

As Fred says the Train Engineer (TE) is a good robust, if now "antiquated" system. Mine is still going strong after some 20 years. Do you have a manual for it ? If not I should be able to help you, dependent on version, mine is the later 10 amp/ten channel model. It might be simply that the handset is set to a different channel to that which it was originally bound to to operate the speed controller by the previous owner. This is a simple fix, as is the rebinding process between handset (TX) and speed controller (RX) if needed. Let us know if you want to try to get your TE working. A picture of your TE would help to isolate the version, they went through a few evolutions over the years. Max

Edit - More from George Schreyer's invaluable tips pages all a out the TE TE Programming

The photo below is the TE equipment I have. I've cleaned the transmitter inside and out, replaced the batteries and tested all the buttons on the keyboard. The transmitter light works when each of the keyboard options are pressed. I checked and tested the receiver fuse, tested the input voltage from the power supply (30V) and determined that nothing on the receiver circuit board was fried.

I used the instructions in the TE Programming link you sent above and tried syncing the transmitter and receiver first by programming the transmitter track code and then pressing a button on the transmitter while pressing the Code Set button on the receiver. The Code light on the receiver doesn't flash for any of the buttons I press on the transmitter.

I've tried resetting the track code using all ten buttons on the transmitter and repeating the process of pressing a button on the transmitter while pressing the Code Set button on the receiver. I never see the Code light flash on the receiver.

I'm thinking this might be a lost cause but wanted to contact you to see if there's something else I might try before I toss this equipment. I appreciate any advice you might have.