I am thinking of buying a usa trains gp38-2 dose anyone now what the minimum size curves they will run on. My main line is aristocraft second radius curves any info is much appreciated.
Thanks Adam
Thanks Adam
Usa trains gp38-2
- Thread starter Adam1989
- Start date
I think you'll find it's 8ft diameter as a minimum - what is Aristo second radius, is that their 10ft diameter? if so, all OK
I would say much too tight - some of the big US diesels will go round less than 8ft, but that's the rule of thumb.
What a beauty! What livery are you hoping to get?
There's no mention of minimum radius in the manual:
http://www.usatrains.com/pdf/gp38manual.pdf
As it is only a Bo-Bo I'd be inclined to believe the 5' radius you found in that DCC wiki document, but obviously you would prefer someone who has first hand experience.
Are you buying it from a retailer? Could you take some curved track along to try it out?
There's no mention of minimum radius in the manual:
http://www.usatrains.com/pdf/gp38manual.pdf
As it is only a Bo-Bo I'd be inclined to believe the 5' radius you found in that DCC wiki document, but obviously you would prefer someone who has first hand experience.
Are you buying it from a retailer? Could you take some curved track along to try it out?
BTW I think they come DC only and you have a DCC layout. Has it been chipped or are you planning to have a go?
They are DC only... And NOT DCC friendly! - Can be done, and there are tricks of the trade to make it easier..
The GP38 will go round R1 but it’s not particularly happy on it, slowing noticeably and it will pop the trip on a 1 amp controller fairly fast. They don’t complain on LGB R2 
They look better on R3 and above. The SD40 needs R3 or bigger.
They look better on R3 and above. The SD40 needs R3 or bigger.
It is dc so I would fit a decoder but it is new effectively no sound. So I would wire the decoder so it feeds the original board with motor output from the decoder so lights and smoke will work like in its original dc form.
That was my plan anyway.
That was my plan anyway.
DC USAT GP-38-2, Santa Fe red warbonnet, was my first loco. before I even had a line 16/17 years ago. It was shelf queen for my first 2 years of ownership. Then I thought.............rest is history. Great little loco.
Mine ran happily through R3 points and even a reverse curve made of R3's. It ran with a mix of USAT, Accucraft,Bachmann and LGB US outline stock, with knuckle couplers fitted. Nostalgia binge over. Max
Mine ran happily through R3 points and even a reverse curve made of R3's. It ran with a mix of USAT, Accucraft,Bachmann and LGB US outline stock, with knuckle couplers fitted. Nostalgia binge over. Max
My point of view :
GP38-2 runs fine on R1.
However I think I am happy with it because I have hook and loop couplers.
With some cars I need to have only one hook behind the GP38.
With other cars I take care to have the GP38 hook outside the curve.
This is due to the overhang.
For sure if you have all the space you need, R2, R3 and beyond are better as stated hereabove.
GP38-2 runs fine on R1.
However I think I am happy with it because I have hook and loop couplers.
With some cars I need to have only one hook behind the GP38.
With other cars I take care to have the GP38 hook outside the curve.
This is due to the overhang.
For sure if you have all the space you need, R2, R3 and beyond are better as stated hereabove.
I would not run it on R1, like the F3, it might make it, but really typically binds the trucks.
Here's a page on couplers, weights, modifying for prototype height, etc:
elmassian.com
Also, USAT locos are really easy to DCC the track pickups and motors, get a few JST connectors and can be done in 5 minutes, takes longer to remove shell, but lighting is another matter, pull out the bulbs and make all LED.
HJere's a page on USAT DCC installs, including the "quick and dirty" DCC install: USAT DCC installation techniques
Greg
Here's a page on couplers, weights, modifying for prototype height, etc:
USAT GP 38 - Kadee & Various Mods
Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers
Also, USAT locos are really easy to DCC the track pickups and motors, get a few JST connectors and can be done in 5 minutes, takes longer to remove shell, but lighting is another matter, pull out the bulbs and make all LED.
HJere's a page on USAT DCC installs, including the "quick and dirty" DCC install: USAT DCC installation techniques
Greg
Like I say my main line is all aristocraft r2 so I should be okay and all my stock has hook and loop couplers so that should help as well