Train jittering .

[joshpaul1]

Hi , my train yesterday was jittering and stopping a fair bit on certain sections of the track being new to model trains is there anything I can do to improve circulation as it where? I have a steinz starter set .
Also my carriages have started to derail a little bit more than I like .. is there some maintenance I should be doing.
Kind regards
Josh

 

[PhilP]

Derailing is probably that your track is not level. - especially across any points, or curves.

Jittering, is probably a continuity or cleanliness issue, do you are not picking up voltage cleanly.

PhilP.

 

[joshpaul1]

HI PHIL , so what’s the solution , is it a track cleaning block and possibly a higher voltage transformer ?
Thanks
Josh

 

[DickyC]

HI PHIL , so what’s the solution , is it a track cleaning block and possibly a higher voltage transformer ?
Thanks
Josh

batteries !

 

[JimmyB]

HI PHIL , so what’s the solution , is it a track cleaning block and possibly a higher voltage transformer ?
Thanks
Josh

We need details on what you have, to know what you may need.

 

[Gizzy]

Sounds like a track cleaning block will help, plus some track leveling and maintenance....

 

[Northsider]

Hi Josh, what is your track laid on? It needs to be level  across the rails if you are to avoid derailments; most locos will deal with mild gradients. Carriages and wagons don't need much maintenance -a drop of light oil on the axle bearings will do.
Try pushing one of your carriages round a curve where it derails: it will probably rock, a bit like a table that needs levelling. A small spirit level will help you level things up.

 

[David1226]

I still say my method of propulsion is fool proof.



David

 

[Zerogee]

Fool proof it may be, David, but it does have strings attached....

Jon.

 

[joshpaul1]

I still say my method of propulsion is fool proof.

View attachment 359587

David

Hahaha

 

[maxi-model]

Are you indoor or outdoor ? If outdoors or heading that way - Google Search for abrasive blocks, the LGB hand held job is not up to serious use. Then use these with one of these fitted to a broomstick,saves on back and knee issues TRACK CLEANER HEAD W TWO CLEANING BLOCKS | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158. Next, get rid of the "fishplate" style track joiners, go to track clamps, improves electrial conductivity and track alignment - Google Search garden railway track clamps. Don't forget to clean the ends of rails where clamped joint is made before fitting. Make sure all your power connections are clean, corrosion free and tight and use a bit of LGB's graphite paste where connection to track is made, use on track joiners too. Make sure loco's power pick ups are clean and oil free. That's about all I can think of, those were the things I had to sort as time moved on and things grew, as they do.

 

[Northsider]

I still say my method of propulsion is fool proof.

View attachment 359587

David

Until you need to reverse...

 

[DickyC]

I still say my method of propulsion is fool proof.



David

How long should the piece of string be ? twice as long as from the middle to the end ?

 

[David1226]

How long should the piece of string be ? twice as long as from the middle to the end ?

I'm a frayed knot.

David

 

[PhilP]

I'm a frayed knot.

David

I didn't realise you were a thread in a string reenactment group?


PhilP.

 

[dunnyrail]

HI PHIL , so what’s the solution , is it a track cleaning block and possibly a higher voltage transformer ?
Thanks
Josh

Track cleaning block always a big help, I recommend the LGB 50040 one but others are available though they tend to not be quite so comfortable to hold or as big.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I didn't realise you were a thread in a string reenactment group?


PhilP.

Track connection can be a big issue - however, I suspect we'll open a can of worms as there are 101 ways of killing a cat, and different people have their own views.

It depends on how much track you have, and how much you think your line may grow in the future.

LGB generally promoted the use of their copper grease when using simple fishplate joints between rails. It's not that the grease really allows conductivity, but it prevents the track from oxidizing - a fishplate that slides on will allow that miniscule amount of air that will oxidize the brass rail.

Otherwise, somebody in this thread mentioned clamps, which do a good job. There are some clamps which go over the LGB fishplates and keep them squeezed tightly to the rail which prevents oxidation, or there are (Massoth?) clamps which clamp direct to the rail, but which require you to remove the LGB fishplate, which is a challenge in its own right, but doable.

 

[maxi-model]

Track connection can be a big issue - however, I suspect we'll open a can of worms as there are 101 ways of killing a cat, and different people have their own views.

It depends on how much track you have, and how much you think your line may grow in the future.

LGB generally promoted the use of their copper grease when using simple fishplate joints between rails. It's not that the grease really allows conductivity, but it prevents the track from oxidizing - a fishplate that slides on will allow that miniscule amount of air that will oxidize the brass rail.

Otherwise, somebody in this thread mentioned clamps, which do a good job. There are some clamps which go over the LGB fishplates and keep them squeezed tightly to the rail which prevents oxidation, or there are (Massoth?) clamps which clamp direct to the rail, but which require you to remove the LGB fishplate, which is a challenge in its own right, but doable.

To remove an LGB fishplate/joiner from a rail, if you ever need to - If you are using regular "set track", not "flexi", supplied with.......sets ! Also the track items sold in fixed lengths and curve radii, includes points and crossings. Drill out the little dimple on underside of the brass fishplate/joiner. Then with a sharp nose pair of pliers grip the fishplate along its base and pull inline with the rail, holding the trackbed firmly. A hidden tab, holding the joiner to the first sleeper in line, will unfold releasing the fishplate. Simples, and you will have a reusable fishplate/joiner. Note the rail will now slide freely in the trackbed's rail chairs. That's what that dimple you drilled out was doing and why you are going to need a track clamp to fix it. OK, I think I crossed all the t's and dotted the i's there. I think I might be labouring the point here

As to overjoiner clamps, I have them made by Hilman, but there is a reson they fell out of favour, they are not very efficient in their operation compared to direct to rail. Fitting the simple "Massoth" type, headlined in the link I posted, is simplicity itself. Yes, we all have our own preferred methods as you say Rhino.

 

[walkerart]

Hi , my train yesterday was jittering and stopping a fair bit on certain sections of the track being new to model trains is there anything I can do to improve circulation as it where? I have a steinz starter set .
Also my carriages have started to derail a little bit more than I like .. is there some maintenance I should be doing.
Kind regards
Josh

Hi as far as I know … you can add a capacitor pack it’s like x3 small batteries
It charges from the track and cuts in when it hits dirty track or points about £30 x

Try James at Massoth



Chris

 

[dunnyrail]

Another less destructive way is shown below.

My preferred option somewhat similar is described below, this works very well on points (switches) as well.

LGB Fishplate Removal

Take a short piece of LGB track say about an inch.

Place this in a Fishplate of any section of LGB Track where the Fishplate is factory fitted and difficult to remove.

Leave about a 1/4 inch gap between the fishplates.



Now put the track in a vice only with your short section held secure.



With a solid screwdriver or centre punch hit so that the unsecured section jumps out leaving the short section of rail and fishplate held in the vice.