Track making/making tracks: the good, the bad and the ugly, advice and thoughts wanted, explanation is giving(incl mistakes)
- Thread starter justme igor
- Start date
Yes, I was referring to Belgium. I've had a few nice weekends in Brussels, and have always been told to be careful to use French (in the Walloon part) or Flemish in the Dutch side. I also thought that, although very similar, Dutch and Flemish were different.
Anyway before I really show my linguistic ignorance back to modelling?
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Yes i will, feedback is also very important, without this i would not come this far, sometimes is those very small things you dont see because you are to busy with it, and some one else will say hee what about this or that...
Of course you understand that this is going to be a project that will take decades to complete and i would like to have some trains running in the garden before i start with that station(before i start...yeah right)
And first i need to finish rebuilding my house(monumental thingy and some well fair "p*** in the a**" people....) so it can survive a next 140 years and being energy positive.
Good news: roof is almost done, bricklayer will be here in march...outside done....
I will not be surprised when we would meet in real life that you actually speak a fair bit of dutch.
Perhaps you could make jigs to slot the ties at say two or three slightly different variations in addition to perpendicular. That way you can keep the tighter gauge tolerance the narrower blade gives but still get the "mismatched" look you are seeking. Just dump all the sleepers in a bucket and pull them out randomly.
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Perfect solution.
1 extra jig will be sufficient enough, or adapt my existing jig.
If i put the centre line just 1 mm off
Thanks
Dont be stupid you will lose your 45mm gauge too.
It is a 2mm thick alu strip in a 2mm thick saw blade, changing the angle would mean nicks and bends in your strip, thus n strait track.
Or go with a wider saw blade(2.2mm for example) and you will lose the angle width your are cutting with.
With best regards Igor
Jeeze Igor, it's time for YOU not to be "deleted"... clearly both slots would have to be the same angle, and if you put the ties in a jig to cut the slots, they HAVE to be the same angle.
Trying to give you a suggestion to make the track even more realistic
How you can call someone stupid and then give best regards?
Take the chip off your shoulder. You ask for opinions, and then shoot yourself in the foot.
Trying to give you a suggestion to make the track even more realistic
How you can call someone stupid and then give best regards?
Take the chip off your shoulder. You ask for opinions, and then shoot yourself in the foot.
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I meant it positive...what do you need a smiley....?
With stupid i mean YOU are to intelligent to ask those kind of stupid questions....You know better, now stop playing games, i meant it positive
But i think you understand because you are more intelligent than this....
With best regards it is also is positive, a fresh start? maybe? No more mud fights?...Or are we going to go over it all again? stop triggering and think positive, i beg you...please do it, think positive.
With best regards Igor
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If you would chance the angle in your sleepers and you will not change your saw blade you will get nicks and bend in your track, unless you will use a thicker saw blade, 2,2mm instead of 2,0mm thick sawblade
I did a experiment with that, BIG failure(2.0mm saw blade)
The sleepers look wonderful, realy like before 1930 tracks....but the track it self...if there was a earthquake...the gauge was still there between the tracks, but the tracks where not strait anymore.
I will post some pictures of the experiment i did close up, gauge (somewhere in between) is there but it looks like...something with a S and ends with a t.
Now be prepared i am not a camera hero with digital photograph...give me a practica tl5 and a dark room and i can do magic.(my old cam, old fashion).
But i will do my best.
With best regards Igor
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Change the angle of the jig that is holding the ties for cutting, not the saw blade.... I did try to ask about the jig before and we again got in a battle of semantics.
I was trying to understand your jig, so without seeing or understanding it, perhaps it is not what I call a jig at all, then perhaps my suggestion is unworkable.
Please stop taking ANY question as an affront.
Here is a very famous and old picture of a tie jig.... If you have a radial arm saw, this could slide underneath and that would be easy in my opinion.
To avoid confusion, here is what I call a raidial arm saw:
Of course you would turn the head 90 degrees, and the tie jig would have some ties angled.... seems simple to me.
I was trying to understand your jig, so without seeing or understanding it, perhaps it is not what I call a jig at all, then perhaps my suggestion is unworkable.
Please stop taking ANY question as an affront.
Here is a very famous and old picture of a tie jig.... If you have a radial arm saw, this could slide underneath and that would be easy in my opinion.
To avoid confusion, here is what I call a raidial arm saw:
Of course you would turn the head 90 degrees, and the tie jig would have some ties angled.... seems simple to me.
And the saga continues....
Turnouts: for my Amsterdam central station (1932)i need a lot.
So why not start a experiment on this
print the things
glue together
glue it on wood
mark cutting line
next step
Turnouts: for my Amsterdam central station (1932)i need a lot.
So why not start a experiment on this
print the things
glue together
glue it on wood
mark cutting line
next step
Yes i am a smoker, sorry.
Regarding turnouts i think you get my drift
This setup COULD allow me any number of turnouts, crossovers and what ever.
Just change the corner i place my curved piece on in(4 in a squire/rectangular)..... or I alter the curved piece(bigger or smaller radii), ect...
But remember this is still experimental!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I am not done jet!!!!!!!!! not even by long shot!!!!!!!!!
Soon i will make a topic on "success with track making" that will only cover the success formula, yes for normal strait track and normal curves, just follow "my recipe" with cheap tools.
For under 1.50 euro 1 meter of track with alu strips!
Thanks with the help of the forum members here that get me started!
I hope this was amusing.
With best regards Igor K
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