LGB Track Extending my Non Scenic 12x5 LGB Oval to 13x7.

Any curve will add drag. Tighter the curve, more drag and the loco will slow, perhaps even stop.

Your loco will need some running in, to work-through any tight spots in the mechanism.

Do run in both directions (turning the loco round, not just backwards) to even out wear.
Wear will be greater, the tighter your curves are, so this is important.

Also, pay heed to lubricating instructions, but keep things clean. - This is more a problem outside, where grit and dirt collect in oil and grease, creating an abrasive paste.
Indoors, fluff and dust will be the problem.

PhilP.
 
Can you run it slowly too? In the real world a steam loco starts up slow and does not run very fast, but this can be a problem for model steam locos i've heard. Looks like this indirect cylinder setup, using a kind of gear/transmission to the wheels, enables a higher cylinder speed at a low driving velocity?
 
Hello Gerard,Yes I can run it very slow on the straight track but on turns full Throttle Reg open all the way and Gas on 3/4 Very Noisey.
 
As Philp says, curves=drag, and looking at your video, that seems to be the problem. Also Accucraft locos do need a lot of running in, to loosen things up. It seems the gas is set too high, but hopefully when its run in, the can be improved. And don't forget to oil before every run
 
As Philp says, curves=drag, and looking at your video, that seems to be the problem. Also Accucraft locos do need a lot of running in, to loosen things up.
 
TIP: Put a blackboard or hang a black curtain against the back wall, it will show the beautiful steam plumes a lot better!
 
Gerard said:
TIP: Put a blackboard or hang a black curtain against the back wall, it will show the beautiful steam plumes a lot better!
Click to expand...
But if using fabric near a live-steam layout, make sure it is treated to make a fire resistant..

PhilP.
 
About the drag: Assuming that the 2 wheel holding parts can rotate far enough to go trough the bend one shouldn't expect drag caused by the friction of the flanges on the wheels, since they are mounted on only 2 axis at a relatively short distance from each other? May be you should exactly check the wheels profile and check how wide the actual space is between the opposite flanges?
 
No, The sharper the bend, the greater the difference in length of the distance traveled along the inner and outer rail! Both wheels are fixed on the axle, so more wheel slip and thuss more resistance/drag. With livesteam use the largest possible radius!
 
Yes, the axles on the trucks are fairly close coupled and should on paper cope with the tighter radius curves of your track's layout. The loco's quoted minimum radius spec' though is probably inherent in those universal joints (UJ), as designed, fitted in its geared drivetrain. The greater the angle the truck is turned the greater the stresses are being caused on those UJ's. As a result the tighter the curve the more the UJ's in the loco's drivetrain are binding up. Hence the increased need for throttle, and running at higher burner settings to increase boiler pressure to overcome this resistance building up in the divetrain. That is why the manufacturer issued that minimum radius specification. The workaround is probably the mod' on the UJ's suggested. That should allow them to work at a wider range of angles, minimising risk of binding. If the factory approve the mod' then do it. I cannot see any other solution. And yes, these geared locos, as others have pointed out, need a bit of running in. I have owned an Accucraft 3 cylinder Shay and their Climax for some years. Max

P.S. I was involved in the testing of one of these locos, when launched, for a review in the 16 mm NGM Association's quarterly magazine. We only ran it on minimum 4ft radius curves. However, it proved an easy to operate loco with great pulling power over gradients straight out of the box. Good choice of loco.
 
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