Suggestions for a paint weather sealer.

[collectors]

Hi, I am making up some model Site huts/line sheds that came in a laser printed kit form & have got to the under coat/primer & will be using acrylic to finish.
Any suggestions for a good sealer ??. I was thinking of spraying a 50/50 of SBR & water. Has anyone tried this ??.
Found this kit very nice to put together & was £35 & heavy at 1.3KL. Feels perfect for covering eclectic points control. Just got about 9 more to make

 

[David1226]

Hi, I am making up some model Site huts/line sheds that came in a laser printed kit form & have got to the under coat/primer & will be using acrylic to finish.
Any suggestions for a good sealer ??. I was thinking of spraying a 50/50 of SBR & water. Has anyone tried this ??.
Found this kit very nice to put together & was £35 & heavy at 1.3KL. Feels perfect for covering eclectic points control. Just got about 9 more to make
View attachment 304662

Just a tip, when you build the other 9, you might want to glue the barge boards, on the gable ends, the correct way around. The Kippo Models are excellent, these lineside huts come in several variations, I converted one into a Goods Office for Gernise End Station, on the Claptowte Railway.



David

 

[collectors]

Just a tip, when you build the other 9, you might want to glue the barge boards, on the gable ends, the correct way around. The Kippo Models are excellent, these lineside huts come in several variations, I converted one into a Goods Office for Gernise End Station, on the Claptowte Railway.

View attachment 304663

David

Laugh, i wanted the more rustic look with the joist sticking out .. Did you give yours any protection ??

 

[David1226]

Did you give yours any protection ??

No, for starters, I used enamel paints, not water based. The main difference is that the Clapwowte Railway was always intended to be an indoor railway, never to be exposed to the elements.

David

 

[JimmyB]

My Kippo and Modeltown resin kits are painted with enamels and no further protection.

 

[beavercreek]

I spray all of my buildings ( built from plastic or wood) with spray Matt varnish to take away any glossy bits that I do not want glossy. Also a few coats seal everything.
I use brands that do not yellow in sunlight … Testors Dulcote or Vallejo or Montana

 

[Paul M]

Strange, and don't take this as gospel please, but I've painted some of my Modeltown buildings with acrylics and no sealant, they seem to last quite well. I've also used external masonry paint which works well too, you can buy match pots which will last some time

 

[collectors]

Strange, and don't take this as gospel please, but I've painted some of my Modeltown buildings with acrylics and no sealant, they seem to last quite well. I've also used external masonry paint which works well too, you can buy match pots which will last some time

I am looking at acrylics as it's an easer to work with, plus, quite a bit cheaper. For a primer & finish coat, i will use SBR.
PVA Vs SBR. They have similar characteristics, but the main difference is that SBR is not water-soluble once dry & makes a good weather resistant finish, whereas PVA remains water-soluble & will eventually break down.
I will do some experimenting & start with a 4to1 spray to see how it goes.

 

[dunnyrail]

Strange, and don't take this as gospel please, but I've painted some of my Modeltown buildings with acrylics and no sealant, they seem to last quite well. I've also used external masonry paint which works well too, you can buy match pots which will last some time

Same for me, I have some old Tom Cooper terracota buikdings. They were purchased around 1992 painted with Rooney Tube Acrylic paints. Just had 2 repaints in that time and look superb. The Acrylic can look a bit shiny at first but a winter outside sees off any shine.

 

[JimmyB]

Just remember that a lot of car paint is now acrylic, so just because it is water based, doesn't stop it being water proof when dry.

 

[Paul M]

Just remember that a lot of car paint is now acrylic, so just because it is water based, doesn't stop it being water proof when dry.

Unfortunately I've had a few cars where I've got wetter inside than out, though

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi, I am making up some model Site huts/line sheds that came in a laser printed kit form & have got to the under coat/primer & will be using acrylic to finish.
Any suggestions for a good sealer ??. I was thinking of spraying a 50/50 of SBR & water. Has anyone tried this ??.
Found this kit very nice to put together & was £35 & heavy at 1.3KL. Feels perfect for covering eclectic points control. Just got about 9 more to make
View attachment 304662

Just a thought, if you intend to spray with the mix of SBR may I suggest that you use an old kitchen spray rather than a good quality spray gun as the SBR is very likely to gum up a spray gun if not cleaned to perfection. Whilst an old kitchen spray can be collateral damage. Also please use a mask as SBR is a very effective glue even at 50/50 mix.

 

[PhilP]

Have I missed something here?

Are the kits resin, or 'wood'?

I can obviously see the need to seal wood, but not resin.

PhilP

 

[collectors]

Have I missed something here?

Are the kits resin, or 'wood'?

I can obviously see the need to seal wood, but not resin.

PhilP

I was more thinking of the paint than the resin. Was just to give it a bit more longevity in our lovely UK winters. These will be permanently outside as most will have controls inside them for points & lighting.

 

[PhilP]

In which case, a matt (or satin) UV protective spray might be better, perhaps?

PhilP