Sticky problem

Eaglecliff

Eaglecliff

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Having used all manner of adhesives over a good many years (decades?) I thought I’d have a go with Gorilla Glue, which is plugged as the finest thing since... the previous finest thing. Having read, and I thought followed, the instructions, on a couple of small jobs, I’m not convinced. The joins I’ve created have not proved as enduring as I expected; have I just fallen victim to the hype, or am I missing something? Are there any materials which the stuff doesn’t really suit?
 
Eaglecliff said:
Having used all manner of adhesives over a good many years (decades?) I thought I’d have a go with Gorilla Glue, which is plugged as the finest thing since... the previous finest thing. Having read, and I thought followed, the instructions, on a couple of small jobs, I’m not convinced. The joins I’ve created have not proved as enduring as I expected; have I just fallen victim to the hype, or am I missing something? Are there any materials which the stuff doesn’t really suit?
Click to expand...
Probably lots! What are you trying to stick?
 
Eaglecliff said:
Having used all manner of adhesives over a good many years (decades?) I thought I’d have a go with Gorilla Glue, which is plugged as the finest thing since... the previous finest thing. Having read, and I thought followed, the instructions, on a couple of small jobs, I’m not convinced. The joins I’ve created have not proved as enduring as I expected; have I just fallen victim to the hype, or am I missing something? Are there any materials which the stuff doesn’t really suit?
Click to expand...

There are different Gorilla Glue types - I have a couple of different ones and I'll go look and see what it says on the bottles.

Ah! One's for wood and the other glues a variety of materials including metal, ceramics, glass, wood and more.There must be other different types I think. So that's not much help is it?
 
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Eaglecliff said:
Having used all manner of adhesives over a good many years (decades?) I thought I’d have a go with Gorilla Glue, which is plugged as the finest thing since... the previous finest thing. Having read, and I thought followed, the instructions, on a couple of small jobs, I’m not convinced. The joins I’ve created have not proved as enduring as I expected; have I just fallen victim to the hype, or am I missing something? Are there any materials which the stuff doesn’t really suit?
Click to expand...

Give us a clue!
Wot U trying to glue?
:think::)
 
trammayo said:
There are different Gorilla Glue types - I have a couple of different ones and I'll go look and see what it says on the bottles.

Ah! One's for wood and the other glues a variety of materials including metal, ceramics, glass, wood and more.There must be other different types I think. So that's not much help is it?
Click to expand...
Mine is the brown one, which swells as it sets, which can be a disadvantage.
 
Eaglecliff said:
Mine is the brown one, which swells as it sets, which can be a disadvantage.
Click to expand...
I have used the same, on resin/styrene bonds for structures that are out nearly all year round. Long beads of the stuff on wall and roof joints. No problems apart from the unexpected expasion of the adhesive. Lots of trimming with one of my Xacto handles with a broad chisel blade afterwards. The bonds have held up well, even in full sun, coping with these materials natural tendency to warp in these conditions. Would I use again ? No, principaly for the reason you have mentioned - the darn stuff expands and is difficult to guage correctly for "fine" aplication. Max
 
Eaglecliff said:
Latest attempt - brass rail joiner to painted timber (don’t ask.)
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If this is going outside, then I think you will have problems.. The brass will expand / contract with temperature, and the wood will swell with moisture content..

Saying that, I would key (abrade) the brass, and the painted surface, and use flexible epoxy.
 
PhilP said:
If this is going outside, then I think you will have problems.. The brass will expand / contract with temperature, and the wood will swell with moisture content..

Saying that, I would key (abrade) the brass, and the painted surface, and use flexible epoxy.
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That’s the way I was thinking...
 
I would be more inclined to use a small machine screw than an adhesive in that circumstance. Drill the wood and thread the rail joiner. Or use a minature brass woodscrew as if it were a "self tapper" into the brass rail joiner through the wood. Max
 
Try 3M Automotive trim adhesive. The Black Color remains somewhat flexible for several years. The Yellow Color is thinner and a little more solid when dry, The Clear (for plastic trim on automobiles) starts gummy and within an hour is strong enough to hold slightly warped parts together.

Just my opinion, and it's worth about what it cost you.
 
PhilP said:
Other suggestion would be silicone..
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Even that seperates after time Phil. I have used another glue in the past - grey coloured Pu adhesive in a cartridge. Unfortunately, if you are only using a little bit of it, the rest goes off after a month or two (and I have tried sealing the cartridge).

I used it for my station building (wood stuck to plastic) and it allows a little expansion of the wood. I also used it on the same project glueing tongue depressors to the concrete to create a boardwalk around the station. Although I experienced a large amount of warping with expansion - and I removed the bulk of the "boards" - portions are still firmly stuck after a number of years exposure to the elements! Sticks like S*** to a brick!

Eaglecliff said:
Mine is the brown one, which swells as it sets, which can be a disadvantage.
Click to expand...

Yes it is probably the same brown one I was looking at last night - and yes, it has the attributes that Max describes - so we're probably all on the same page.

There is a mention of adding moisture under certain conditions I notice (and ignored!).
 
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