Stainz Spare Parts

[Martin01]

Hi

I have taken over running 2 Stainz locomotives on a track in a hotel 7-8 hours a day. As you can guess parts wear out. Especially the brushes and skids. Then the wheels gears and now one needs a new motor.

Can anyone suggest somewhere in the UK where I could find these parts at a competitive rate?

It would help if any one could give me an idea of how long you would expect brushes etc to last.

 

[stockers]

Try Garden Rail Outlet.
Brushes should last ages - even in this high use application, But probably best to put in a new motor for your use. There are records of Stainz locos running in shop displays for literally years with no maintenance what-so-ever.
Skids do wear and are fairly cheap and easily replaced. Wheels and gears are available from various suppliers but a couple of German supplier seem to have the best selection. Postage might be their standard 16 euro so best to buy all you need at once.

Have a good look around our 'LINKS' section on here (Top of page on right hand side). Try Modell-land.

 

[PhilP]

Hi

I have taken over running 2 Stainz locomotives on a track in a hotel 7-8 hours a day. As you can guess parts wear out. Especially the brushes and skids. Then the wheels gears and now one needs a new motor.

Can anyone suggest somewhere in the UK where I could find these parts at a competitive rate?

It would help if any one could give me an idea of how long you would expect brushes etc to last.

If these are running roundy-roundy in the same direction? Then, if possible, turn the whole train around and run it the other way round the track.. If you run odd months one way, and even months the other, you will even out the wear and get a lot more out of the loco's.

 

[Martin01]

Thank you very much for the replys.

I did think about cannibalizing two machines to make one. But I'm beginning to think that the wheel and motor options aren't identical from one model to another.
Steinz train1 has this serial No. 20212 and marked LEHMANN
Steinz train2 has this serial No. 10000347 and marked marklin.

 

[PhilP]

That does seem a lot of wear in that time-frame..

On the 20212, the first and last digits on the circular gold sticker give the year of manufacture.

What track are you using? - From the wear-pattern, It looks like you might have one of the finer makes of track? Possibly Tenmille??

 

[KeithT]

A couple of weeks ago I was in Daniels Dept Store in Windsor, they have a quite large Playmobile layout running at high level in the toy dept. I wonder how often they have to change batteries? Given how it was laid out it would be quite a balancing act even to simply swap,locos every couple of hours.

 

[PhilP]

A couple of weeks ago I was in Daniels Dept Store in Windsor, they have a quite large Playmobile layout running at high level in the toy dept. I wonder how often they have to change batteries? Given how it was laid out it would be quite a balancing act even to simply swap,locos every couple of hours.

Ah, but was it a Playmobil loco on the front?
OR
It could be one of the track-powered models??

 

[playmofire]

Almost certainly the latter I would have thought. Beatties in Harrogate had such a display in the 1990s before they closed down.

 

[James Day]

Almost certainly the latter I would have thought. Beatties in Harrogate had such a display in the 1990s before they closed down.

Tend to agree with you there Gordon:

Keith - for the past few years Playmobil have only made a yellow centre cabbed diesel with a longish wheelbase, front and rear lights and dark tinted windows. I have tried to do a track powered version of this but it is realy difficult to get to work well. A substitute mech to match the wheelbase has not been possible to find.

Until they introduced this model the PM locos all shared the same wheelbase, being exclusively track powered until 1997 and RC battery powered thereafter. It is posible to make a post 1997 loco take a electric mech, either by modification or sometimes by using old spare parts from earlier models, but I can't imagine that a toy shop would have the means or the inclination to do this.

I have heard it said that Playmobil made some special track powered versions of the post 1997 models for shop window type displays. I would certainly love to see one or the special version of the plastic RC track allegedly made for them. This is of course subject to this being more than a rumour!

James

 

[Zerogee]

Tend to agree with you there Gordon:

Keith - for the past few years Playmobil have only made a yellow centre cabbed diesel with a longish wheelbase, front and rear lights and dark tinted windows. I have tried to do a track powered version of this but it is realy difficult to get to work well. A substitute mech to match the wheelbase has not been possible to find.
.............................
James

James - what is the actual wheelbase of the yellow PM battery diesel? I'm wondering if the longer LGB 4-wheel gearbox that they use under things like the RhB Tm2/2 tractors and the newish KoF might be close enough to work...?

Jon.

 

[James Day]

James - what is the actual wheelbase of the yellow PM battery diesel? I'm wondering if the longer LGB 4-wheel gearbox that they use under things like the RhB Tm2/2 tractors and the newish KoF might be close enough to work...?

Jon.

Hello Jon,

It is 13cm centre to centre. (Apologies - I originally posted 12 but having to confess to misreading my ruler! I guess I am just gifted)

I did ask around on this forum and checked with others before I began my track power conversion of the PM mech a couple of years back - I recall that this was more than the KoF then available, although I didn't check the tractors.

That said - given the prices that KoFs and tractors go for, a professionally scatch built mech would probably worthy of consideration too!

James

 

[Martin01]

I am beginning to wonder if the track is at fault as the radius is quite tight.

The rails have been replaced (still the original sleeper section) and was bent by hand is it possible that kinks may be the cause as there are wear marks ar set points on the radius?

 

[PhilP]

I am beginning to wonder if the track is at fault as the radius is quite tight.

The rails have been replaced (still the original sleeper section) and was bent by hand is it possible that kinks may be the cause as there are wear marks ar set points on the radius?

It won't help with wear (and binding) if the rails have kinks, rather than smooth curves.. R1 is very tight. If anything, you could probably do with 'gauge widening' on the curve??

Could you swap-out that point / curve for a 'standard' one? - Perhaps tweaking / trimming once off the bend?

 

[Martin01]

Here's a development.


I have found the controller is a guagemaster 100M it gives off 13.89Volts and is rated at 14V output.

What power supply does the Stainz require? As it does run at this voltage.

 

[dunnyrail]

Here's a development.


I have found the controller is a guagemaster 100M it gives off 13.89Volts and is rated at 14V output.

What power supply does the Stainz require? As it does run at this voltage.

Voltage is irrelevant (except the Maximum) as the Loco's Speed will be dependant on the Voltage Given to it. You are well within the accepted parameters with that Gaugemaster Setup. I would be looking at no more than Half Speed given, without looking at a Vid of the Setup it is difficult to define what you are doing in terms of Speed. But a good steady Trundle would be best both for the Loco's Life and staying on the Track capability. I would still however suggest an LGB Controller in such a situation, perhaps the 51070. This will give a Maximum output of 24v which is the Maximum for LGB. However at that the speed would be ridiculous, however at a sensible say 1/2 Speed it should be about right and have a Very Long Life as it will be well underated.

With regards to Track, you should be looking at Bog Standard LGB Track, keep it in place with the little track Clips LGB Ref 11500. No tightening of curves or manual bending of straights. These Clips slot into the Sleepers underneath between each joint and will tend to stop the Track Separating. This could be a problem as large gaps in the Rail though sounding good will cause additional wear. I would also recommend LGB 51010 Graphite Paste on each Sleeper Joint. Helps with Voltage Supply.

Some years back I got given a Stainz that had had a very hard life on a similar demo thing in a Shop. The wheels were like yours, valve gear all sloppy and badly worn. But it still ran like a trojan after some gentle oiling of the complete mechanism. You could probably think about that as well, the Turning Monthly could coincide with regular Service a few spots of LGB Varying Lubs as recommended by LGB 51020 Gear Lubricant. And do not forget the LGB Red Lub 50019 on all bearings of Rolling Stock periodically as well. This would include the Bogie Type Turning Mech underneath the Vehicles both Bogie and 4 Wheelers. This stuff will also be the thing for your Stainz Valve Gear and any of the rubbing surfaces on the Chassis.
Hope this helps,
JonD

 

[KeithT]

Ah, but was it a Playmobil loco on the front?
OR
It could be one of the track-powered models??

From memory it was plastic track but I shall be there next weekend and will try to check.

 

[KeithT]

Tend to agree with you there Gordon:

Keith - for the past few years Playmobil have only made a yellow centre cabbed diesel with a longish wheelbase, front and rear lights and dark tinted windows. I have tried to do a track powered version of this but it is realy difficult to get to work well. A substitute mech to match the wheelbase has not been possible to find.

Until they introduced this model the PM locos all shared the same wheelbase, being exclusively track powered until 1997 and RC battery powered thereafter. It is posible to make a post 1997 loco take a electric mech, either by modification or sometimes by using old spare parts from earlier models, but I can't imagine that a toy shop would have the means or the inclination to do this.

I have heard it said that Playmobil made some special track powered versions of the post 1997 models for shop window type displays. I would certainly love to see one or the special version of the plastic RC track allegedly made for them. This is of course subject to this being more than a rumour!

James

I will be back there next weekend and will try to take a photograph.

 

[Gizzy]

My local model shop has a Stainz running on a Straight track with an S curve in the middle.

I noticed quite a lot of wear on the rail head on the R1 curves and pointed this out to the proprietor. Lots of brass filings

He eventually replaced the worn track and donated the straights lengths to me for free. I did use it on my layout but I realised it was worn by around 1/2 a mm lower than the other rails. So it is now used as a DCC programming track.

I estimate the track was over 20 years old and with a Stainz and wagon running 24/7 on it during that time. The original Stainz loco is still running, despite being stolen and used as a football by some yobbos once! They are virtually bombproof.

So my advice would be to replace the curves with newish R1s if possible, or better, with R2 or R3.

 

[Topogardenmike]

I run about 5 Stainz locos most having been purchased in little used condition on eBay for around the eighty pounds region. Might be a cost effective solution if the parts bill and postage add up.

 

[Martin01]

Thank you for all your replies. They are much appreciated.

Update

The Track is quite new 1-2 yrs old the other was quite worn. I’m told the wheels where hitting the sleepers in places. The replacement track in Peco flexi track which I’m told is only good for 500hrs of use where as the LGB track is rated for 2000hrs.

The track runs at around 10’ off the ground and one section is near an oven so is in the firing line of quite a bit of heat at times.
It is only bolted down at irregular intervals so that will need attention.

Dunnyrail thank you for your help the speed controller is set just below maximum which is about ok for speed. 24V would look like an express going through Carnforth Station and frighten all the kids. The 12V supply wire will be the next upgrade. I have already shortened it which seems to have improved things.

As for the two Stainz locos I have taken them to P&S Hobbies & Models in York for inspection. I was told there are over 20 different specifications of Stains some with different linkage lengths.

I will keep you posted.