Looking to change from a Single loop to double return loop. Is this right, or any other suggestions welcome.
Single loop to double return loop
- Thread starter collectors
- Start date
So anything travelling down the L/H track returns to the L/H, and the same for the R/H track, before travelling down one track, returned via the other track, but no more, is that what you want.
Yes, correct. Rather than one track with a single loop i will get two tracks with 2 return loops. Should give a little more traffic room. "With some care"
-
1
- Show all
Presumably the other end of your line would have a similar track configuration ? Or, if I think about it, are you planning one of the loops as a storage track ?
If I remember correctly, you're planning on running battery power, so there would be no problems. I reckon it looks quite interesting and, in the flesh, with some appropriate curves (no pun intended) should provide some visual interest (oh dear, it gets worse 
).
).
Looks really interesting..
How stiff is your pipe?
Can't wait to see something battery remote controlled buzzing round!
PhilP
How stiff is your pipe?
Can't wait to see something battery remote controlled buzzing round!
PhilP
There's a metaphor lol. But, I'm waiting for it to warm up a bit as my 2"pipe is a little stiff in this cooler weather. But the 2" pipe came in a coil that was in-between an R3 & R5 bend, so this has helped. I do have some R1 turn offs, but only in siding & stations so dont need the tube. But at worst i will gently treat it to my blow torch.Looks really interesting..
How stiff is your pipe?
Can't wait to see something battery remote controlled buzzing round!
PhilP
My first train wont be until around August & building a slow/fast low level / centre of gravity one so i can have a good test. Should go well on the R5 bends.
-
2
- Show all
This does look pretty bomb-proof (barring Vlad the Invader).
I will be interested in how it fairs if we eventually get some hot weather?
I am thinking of trying some of these, inverted, possible sitting on a thermalite block?
PhilP.
I will be interested in how it fairs if we eventually get some hot weather?
I am thinking of trying some of these, inverted, possible sitting on a thermalite block?
Loft Storage Stilts - Box of 96 (11.3m² Space)
Most Popular Quantity Sold Create 11.3m² of storage space. FREE TRACKED NEXT DAY DELIVERY IN THE UK and IRELAND Will create a raised boarded area above the government recommended 270mm Insulate your loft AND keep your storage space. Create a raised platform to insure the insulation is not...
www.loftstilts.co.uk
PhilP.
-
1
- Show all
It'll be interesting to find out how the sun affects themThis does look pretty bomb-proof (barring Vlad the Invader).
I will be interested in how it fairs if we eventually get some hot weather?
I am thinking of trying some of these, inverted, possible sitting on a thermalite block?
Loft Storage Stilts - Box of 96 (11.3m² Space)
Most Popular Quantity Sold Create 11.3m² of storage space. FREE TRACKED NEXT DAY DELIVERY IN THE UK and IRELAND Will create a raised boarded area above the government recommended 270mm Insulate your loft AND keep your storage space. Create a raised platform to insure the insulation is not...www.loftstilts.co.uk
PhilP.
-
1
- Show all
They certainly look cost look cost effective. Might be worth dropping them a line as i believe its an additive they put in the plastic to make it UV protected & might not be needed in lofts. But always nice to see alternatives & thinking of different ideas to steer our thinking down other paths. What is it they say? Necessity is the mother of invention.
-
2
- Show all
I doubt they will be UV protected, and they are quite short.
I am thinking they will mainly be in shade, under the layout, and after a season (to get rid of release agent, and key the surface) a blast with a rattle-can, would provide additional protection.
They would probably last as long as a first iteration of most railways?
A main reason for looking at these, is access. - Everything has to be man-handled down a pedestrian cul-de-sac. Unfortunately, we do not have vehicle access to the property.
PhilP
I am thinking they will mainly be in shade, under the layout, and after a season (to get rid of release agent, and key the surface) a blast with a rattle-can, would provide additional protection.
They would probably last as long as a first iteration of most railways?
A main reason for looking at these, is access. - Everything has to be man-handled down a pedestrian cul-de-sac. Unfortunately, we do not have vehicle access to the property.
PhilP
-
1
- Show all
Black plastic is the first step in UV protection, since the black is not a dye, but carbon... so the sun cannot penetrate very deeply (try a clear plastic box outdoors!)
There are many sprays (303 protectant, Armorall) that have UV protection, note that human sunscreen works with a thin layer.
I have Armorall in a garden sprayer, and every 6 months I renew my Aristo track. Black as the day I bought it.
There are always possibilities... you could double stack those thingies, but I'm guessing that overall they would not be cost effective...
greg
There are many sprays (303 protectant, Armorall) that have UV protection, note that human sunscreen works with a thin layer.
I have Armorall in a garden sprayer, and every 6 months I renew my Aristo track. Black as the day I bought it.
There are always possibilities... you could double stack those thingies, but I'm guessing that overall they would not be cost effective...
greg
The biggest problem in the UK, is timber in the garden..
So these will avoid the rot at ground-level.
Timber is fast-growing, kiln-dried, not well treated (even pressure treated does not last). So masonry, or plastics can be viable.
Or friends scaffold poles, have enough wall-thickness, that they should last a good few years..
It all depends on what you are happy working with, aesthetics, and budget.
PhilP
-
1
- Show all
I've used some of those under my deck, the seem to work fine, but my not be high enough