Reversing loop quicky

[Gizzy]

Okay got it now Tim?

Especially in light of your latest diagram.

Plan B is to modify an R2 Curve to act as a 1015K.

You will have to cut the rails of the curve at the mid point, and fit isolating clamps with tag strips, so that you can attach wires.

You can then take the diodes from the 1015K or buy replacements like 1N 5014 5A rated diodes, and fit them to a piece of veroboard. You will have to put the veroboard in a weatherproof enclosure, or hid it in the nearby shed.

Here's the wiring diagram for the R2 (or any piece of track) curve;

Now you can replace a R2 curve as follows;

This is the cheapest solution I could think of, that fits your plan and operational needs. I know a bit of soldering isn't beyond your skills, and I reckon you could mod up an R2 for yourself quite easily....

 

[Gizzy]

Where does it say that all track sections have to be in the running line???

A quick fix that saves unsoldering those diodes...

As your geometry doesn't permit the 1015K being inserted into the curve, just place it close, and use jumper wires between the variable polarity and the constant polarity. If you wished, you could add a few short straights, and make a disused section of track.

Once your layout has expanded, remove the jumper wires, and your 1015K is ready to be reused/recycled( sold!)/whatever...

Malcolm

Now that's a clever bit of lateral thinking Malcolm, and a lot simpler than my last post....

 

[nicebutdim]

Hmmmm, now I have a choice. 2 very good ideas there.
Right, thanks guys. Tomorrow I'll see what I can do, weather permitting.
Thanks again everyone, your help is very much appreciated.

 

[beavercreek]

If you do create a new board you could seal it all in exterior silicon to protect it from the elements and then bury it.

 

[nicebutdim]

Luckily enough, no more than about 2ft away I have an exterior junction box that already contains signalling and point relays, so I'm sure (or hope) that the diode matrix will be happy in there.

 

[Brixham]

It must be the drugs I'm currently on ( Lemsip as have a nasty cold ) as I've had a better idea....

The 1015k can be at the extremity of the spur into the shed..right at the buffers...
The constant polarity voltage can then be fed to the isolated unidirectional return loop.

So, I've broken my own concept....of having loose bits of track!!

Nurse....more drugs please...

Malcolm

 

[Neil Robinson]

As promised, an edited image to reverse the arrangement.
Unsurprisingly after studying the LGB board I discovered it's a case of reversing each and every diode.
As this results in a non standard unit that, with the cover back on, looks identical to the standard one future confusion may well result. For this reason I recommend serious consideration of the alternative solutions suggested in previous posts.

Edit, This unit as modified is now designed to fit at the entrance to the loop with the train travelling in the direction of the arrow. I have reversed the arrow in the image to show train direction in this edit.

 

[nicebutdim]

That's great, thank you so much. A thorough survey will ensue tomorrow to find the best option for location.
Thanks again everyone.

 

[Gizzy]

That's great, thank you so much. A thorough survey will ensue tomorrow to find the best option for location.
Thanks again everyone.

Keep us posted with the resulting solution....

 

[nicebutdim]

Right, here's the update. After looking at the ease of setting up and what I have at hand to do the job straight away and future reliability, I decided to go with Neil's re-working of the diodes within the 1015k. It took about 10 mins to de-solder and swap the diodes around. Placed the section at the entrance to the loop and tested, worked fine with half the loop connected up. So I then connected up the shed siding point and gave it another test, shorted out the supply and blew the fuse, hmmmm. I made sure the isolated section of track on the exit was insulated and everything seemed fine, so I thought it could be an issue with the previously untested point so I pulled it out, got the test meter on it and found it to be perfectly fine. Back outside I reinstalled the point, connected everything up and now it all works perfectly! I have no idea what caused the short in the first place but now I'm well happy as it works as it should.
So a big thank you to everyone for your help and input