Reversing loop quicky

nicebutdim

nicebutdim

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Hi all, just a quick question.
I have the LGB reversing loop set (the one with the insulated section of track and the bridge rectifier section with the arrow). LGB say to have the section with the arrow pointing out of the loop on the exit track, is it possible to place it in the entrance to the loop with the arrow pointing into the loop? I don't have space for the bridge rectifier section of track on the exit section.
I know I could use insulating rail clamps and place a rectifier away from the loop, but at the moment I'm not allowed to spend any more money so can only use what I have.
Many thanks,
Tim
 
No it won't work Tim.

If it's a space limitation, because you need a curved section instead of the straight, then you could use the LGB curved isolating track LGB 11152 and swap the diodes from the LGB 10151T straight, as I did when I was analogue?

Assuming of course, that you have the 11152 to hand and it's not an extra expense!

The other way to do it is reverse the direction of the loop for your train, use 2 yellow isolating joiners on the curved entrance, and put the 10151T section in the straight exit as per this diagram....

0a25239d4944485bb2a0503100d3290e.jpg
 
If you have space to put the arrowed section in the "entrance" section why not make this the "exit" section and run trains the other way round.
If this isn't feasible you could do what you suggest in the first post IF you rearrange the diodes in the diode fitted arrowed track section. I'm not sure if they are soldered or screwed in place. If you wish to try this please post photos of the diodes mounted inside your example (there have been variations over the years) and I'll edit the image(s) to show the required alteration.
 
Alternately you could flog the LGB reverse loop set here or on Evilbay. Pocket the money and get yourself a simple polarity reversing switch and a box to pop it in, Maplins/GRS/etc' + a set of track jumper leads. Just add isolators at the start and end of your loop.
OK it's not automatic, you have to make sure the polarity in the loop matches that of the track as you enter and flip the switch on the way out of the loop.
I did that when I could not make the LGB setup work on my reversing triangle. Saved some money too !
Max.
 
My reversing loops are fully automatic, sensing the train coming in and automatically reversing the power with a simple(ish) flip flop circuit. Changing the direction of the loop isn't usually a problem, but my new spur that runs into the shed comes off the loop half way round and relies on the trains running through the point in a trailing direction. I actually tried removing the rectifier section and using an automatic dpdt and reversing circuit to operate the loop but due to the distances from my control box there was a brief pause (about 1/2 second) between the flip flop circuit operating and the dpdt relay, resulting in the train being thrown into reverse and then forwards again very quickly. I didn't like the idea of picking up stripped sections of gears for this system. It could have been made more simple, but at the cost of wire which cannot be justified at the present time.
Regarding the insulated curved sections, do they come in R2? The only other option I can see is to place some insulated rail joiners (split jaw) on the exit and wire the rectifier across them (I've done this for my track feeds).
I'll try to get a picture in a minute of the rectifier internals.
Thanks everyone,
Tim
 
07b1e671a2634730a56279c7e7c475eb.jpg

3973168db40f47118437412f588ee825.jpg

Looks like they're soldered, which isn't too much of an issue as I can unsolder and swap about as required.
 
DoctorM said:
I see from post #6 that you got to page 124 and beyond! :rolf:
Click to expand...
I whinge about car manufacturers placing to many electronics in todays cars and causing more issues than they're worth, but then I see some of what I've made to operate my railway. Anyway, I blame swmbo as she said that the railway would never be allowed to go right round the garden, never mind into the shed. So I designed all the controls to operate a single line dog bone. Then a couple of weeks ago I get given permission to run into the shed, completely throwing all my plans! :rolf:
 
nicebutdim said:
Regarding the insulated curved sections, do they come in R2? The only other option
Click to expand...
No mate, only in R1 and straights....
 
Gizzy said:
nicebutdim said:
Regarding the insulated curved sections, do they come in R2? The only other option
Click to expand...
No mate, only in R1 and straights....
Click to expand...
Slowly getting rid of the R1s, only one of the reversing loops has them now and even that will be gone this summer, hopefully.
Hopefully Neil will be able to help with rearranging the diodes so I'll be able to place the 1015K into the entrance to the loop and then I can just place some insulating joiners on the exit (or to be exact just before the point for the shed).
 
3b23c967e9bc419a9b3789bd0a7a5b9a.jpg

Hopefully this rather poor drawing will give a better idea of how I would like it.
 
nicebutdim said:
images

Hopefully this rather poor drawing will give a better idea of how I would like it.
Click to expand...

Does the track going into the shed terminate?

Or is it part of a continuous circuit....
 
At the moment it terminates but will eventually make it right round to make a continuous loop. When the line becomes continuous the loop direction won't really matter as there won't be an issue with trains running into the shed by accident. There was another reason why I didn't want them running the other way but for the life of me I cannot remember now.
 
nicebutdim said:
At the moment it terminates but will eventually make it right round to make a continuous loop. When the line becomes continuous the loop direction won't really matter as there won't be an issue with trains running into the shed by accident.
Click to expand...
Okay, I think I have an answer where you can use your 1015K and insulating joiners.

As the track currently terminates, then I guess you will shunt trains back into the shed after running round the loop.

So providing your train length is such that it isn't longer than the straight section between the 2 points then I would do this....

3efd8aa43f6f40e48c6ae6a0b5809025.jpg


Put the yellow LGB (or black Aristo if used) joiners in the curved approach to your loop. Use the 'dogbone' joiner or a couple of tie-wraps to hold the track together.

Put your 1015K just before the point as shown with the arrow as per the direction of travel.

As long as you don't cross the 1015K with your loco, then you will still be able to reverse a train into the shed, providing the train has cleared the other point closer to the shed. This effectively is the shunt limit, and you can put an appropriate sign indicationg as such.

If you cross the 1015K with the loco, then you will be able to reverse the direction of the controller and carry on out of the loop....
 
Hold on, when in the loop the train direction is set by the 1015k as it rectifies the track input so that the train carries on in the same direction while the controller is reversed. So I wouldn't be able to back into the shed as reversing the controller would only result in the train carrying on as before?
 
It might also help if I said that the loop obtains it's track power from the toe end of the loop's point, not from the shed's siding.
 
nicebutdim said:
Hold on, when in the loop the train direction is set by the 1015k as it rectifies the track input so that the train carries on in the same direction while the controller is reversed. So I wouldn't be able to back into the shed as reversing the controller would only result in the train carrying on as before?
Click to expand...

Thinking about this, you are right Tim. In effect it's the same as having the 1015K like you wanted?

Let me have another think....
 
I need to keep all the straight at the top reversible so trains can be backed into the shed, all the curved track on the loop is one direction. I should have drawn the picture like so;
790145e9056c4e9d9a162006542e36ed.jpg

I need the whole of the area between the 2 yellow lines to be between the track breaks for the lengths of trains possible.
 
Where does it say that all track sections have to be in the running line???

A quick fix that saves unsoldering those diodes...

As your geometry doesn't permit the 1015K being inserted into the curve, just place it close, and use jumper wires between the variable polarity and the constant polarity. If you wished, you could add a few short straights, and make a disused section of track.

Once your layout has expanded, remove the jumper wires, and your 1015K is ready to be reused/recycled( sold!)/whatever...

Malcolm
 
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