Renaming a Loco

[Graham]

I just bought a C&S LGB Mogul that I am thinking of renaming to Rio Grande . I have a set of waterslide transfers suitable for the job that are also intended for the unmarked Mikado I have. The question is has anyone tried to remove the original lettering from a LGB loco. I assume the text is silk screened?

 

[ntpntpntp]

Probably tampo printed.

Not tried it myself, I would think the printing is quite strongly applied given the intention to stand up to outdoors conditions so might need something like a fibreglass pen rather than a solvent, but of course that would damage the paintwork?

I'm sure there'll be folk on here who have managed it in a non-destructive way.

 

[casey jones snr]

Probably tampo printed.

Not tried it myself, I would think the printing is quite strongly applied given the intention to stand up to outdoors conditions so might need something like a fibreglass pen rather than a solvent, but of course that would damage the paintwork?

I'm sure there'll be folk on here who have managed it in a non-destructive way.

I use Duraglit or Brasso a gentle rub seems to do the job.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

No experience with LGB, but I've done a few Bachmann.

I used 'fresh' turps, dabed on with a cotton bud..... leave it to 'react' for a while until there is visible signs of crazing. Then rub it off with a turpy rag.



As delivered.



Renumbered, and destripped,

Edit: For my numbering, I used Woodland Scenics dry transfer lettering. Railroad Roman typeface. The Climax lettering is original. Railroad Roman seems to be the typeface of choice for lots of American style lettering.

 

[Frank Gallagher]

As Casey says, use brasso, BUT be careful as it also removes the paint

 

[Graham]

As Casey says, use brasso, BUT be careful as it also removes the paint

I think the loco is moulded in black plastic so there should be no risk of removing anything other than the text. It may however leave a "shadow" of the original text I guess so we will just have to see

 

[fridge]

Casey mentioned Duraglit. In my days of polishing brass Duraglit or other silver polish was preferred for the task as it left far fewer scratches.

 

[Frank Gallagher]

I think the loco is moulded in black plastic so there should be no risk of removing anything other than the text. It may however leave a "shadow" of the original text I guess so we will just have to see

Beware the plastic will be a slightly different shade to the paint!

 

[Graham]

Beware the plastic will be a slightly different shade to the paint!

I don't think the main body is actually painted, just moulded in black plastic - but we shall see when it gets onto the tuit list later this year

 

[PhilP]

The area you 'polish' will also end up with a shiny finish.. - Though this may be good for transfers to 'take'?
probably have to matt / satin varnish once the new naming has been applied??

 

[stockers]

Tampondruckentferner. I think Grootspoor stock it.

 

[trammayo]

Tampondruckentferner. I think Grootspoor stock it.

H'mm, wonder how that name construes?

 

[Graham]

According to Google translate "Tampon printing Remover"

 

[Graham]

Found some at Champex-Linden and ordered so we will have to wait and see how much it costs to send to me. I found at another supplier in Germany at Euro 6.00 for 25ml but Euro 18.00 postage . The CL one is Euro 6.00 for 100ml which sounds a better deal

 

[PhilP]

Main (active) constituent seems to be cyclohexanone(sp?) as a solvent..
Perhaps that would help in finding something more local??

 

[ntpntpntp]

There are loads of google search results for "tampo print removal". Many folk have their own techniques but success very much depends on the ink used and the underlying surface.

Have a look at the first half of this page, for example:
http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/transfers/transfer-application

 

[Thomas Lambo]

Very helpful thread...thanks much

 

[KeithT]

Very helpful thread...thanks much

Jeweller's rouge is also v effective in removing transfers etc..
T- cut used to sell a product (not the usual T.-cut!) but I have not seen it for years. I even used it to remove coatings from plastic spectacle lenses without it scratching them.

 

[Hutch]

Jeweller's rouge is also v effective in removing transfers etc..
T- cut used to sell a product (not the usual T.-cut!) but I have not seen it for years. I even used it to remove coatings from plastic spectacle lenses without it scratching them.

I have used Simi-Chrome metal polish with good success. EXCEPT that it leave the surface too shiny for most folks.

 

[Flying15]

I have used Simi-Chrome metal polish with good success. EXCEPT that it leave the surface too shiny for most folks.

AFTER n BEFORE
Weathering hides a multitude of sins if you damage the surface after removing manufacturers lettering !