Rail Clamps

duncan1_9_8_4

duncan1_9_8_4

Garden Railway Operator/Real Life Signalman
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Just wondering what if any Over Fish Plate clamps are available these days? I have tried the Piko ones but they are frankly rubbish. The hole on the score just wears away as it is tightened, making the situation worse. Any ideas?
 
The over the joiner clamps are just as expensive as the ones that work directly on the rail, but they are less effective, since the only thing you are doing is tightening the joiner, if there is corrosion, dirt, oxidation between the joiner and the rails, the over the joiner clamp won't help.

Get the regular clamps and ditch the stock joiners.

Greg
 
I think it was only Hillman that made the over-clamp.

I don't see much point in using it, it just adds another layer to create bad contact - I've either used Aristo / Bachmann screwed fishplates on Aristo track, or Hillman clamps (second hand) on LGB flexi track.

I don't like the LGB enlarged version of an 00/HO push-on fishplate - they should have though more realistically about the opportunities and challenges in this scale. Copper grease is a work around, not a solution IMHO.
 
When I helped demolish my friends layout in Swindon the week before last he had 2 types of over clamps in his Shed. First lot were indeed Hillman Over Type. But another version of Over Type were present, they had Larger Allum Screws and he got them from 2 Jags. Not sure of the actual make, but there must be someone out there making them.
JonD
 
I tried some over the fishplate clamps once, have to say they were ditched very quickly, they are just pointless IMHO.

Have gone for the Aristo/Bachmann option as above on all my plain track, even to the point of removing ordinary fishplates and drilling/tapping the rail ends.

Exceptions are rail clamps for points and bridges, as they are likely to need lifting for servicing/access at some time.

P1000836.JPG
 
I've used Hillman over joiner clamps for 7/8 years now without any conductivity problems creeping in, yet. It's down to the preparation, make sure rail, joiner and clamp are all clean and bright before fitting and apply a dose of graphite paste/Coppergrease to all mating surfaces and the clamps' bolt threads

Having said that now using Massoth type due to lack of Hillman availability. Handy to dispose of joiners as you can lift out sections of track with minimum disturbance to formations.

You could always source some "SplitJaw" product, they list over joiner clamps on their website http://www.railclamp.com/ Max
 
Nodrog1826 said:
I tried some over the fishplate clamps once, have to say they were ditched very quickly, they are just pointless IMHO.

Have gone for the Aristo/Bachmann option as above on all my plain track, even to the point of removing ordinary fishplates and drilling/tapping the rail ends.

Exceptions are rail clamps for points and bridges, as they are likely to need lifting for servicing/access at some time.

View attachment 217185
Click to expand...
What make are those clamps, Gordie?
 
Nodrog1826 said:
I tried some over the fishplate clamps once, have to say they were ditched very quickly, they are just pointless IMHO.

Have gone for the Aristo/Bachmann option as above on all my plain track, even to the point of removing ordinary fishplates and drilling/tapping the rail ends.

Exceptions are rail clamps for points and bridges, as they are likely to need lifting for servicing/access at some time.

View attachment 217185
Click to expand...
Have to say that Massoth are my Clamp of choice these days, so much easier to fit and adapt. However as I have a considerable investment in Hillman ones including over type they will not be ditched.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Have to say that Massoth are my Clamp of choice these days, so much easier to fit and adapt. However as I have a considerable investment in Hillman ones including over type they will not be ditched.
JonD
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As ever, it's a question of what works for you.

However, As Duncan was thinking of purchasing from new, he's got some views to go on :think::think::think::think::think::think:
 
Newbie question: if you clamp your rails doesn't this lead to track buckling due to expansion? On my 00 layouts I recall using a feeler gauge to leave an expansion gap - and that was indoors!

All the best,


Steve
 
SteamySteve said:
Newbie question: if you clamp your rails doesn't this lead to track buckling due to expansion? On my 00 layouts I recall using a feeler gauge to leave an expansion gap - and that was indoors!

All the best,


Steve
Click to expand...

Yes, maybe!
Track will expand, and if it is restrained, then the extra length has to go somewhere!

This depends a lot on your location, what you are mounting your track on, and how firmly you fix it. - Both down, and to adjacent lengths.
If you use a large, single piece of recycled plastic board, then the expansion / contraction of said board will far exceed that of the rail.
Due to the length of track we tend to have, then it does need to be allowed for, so you tend to make holes in sleepers 'sloppy', or use a 'penny washer' across a pair of sleepers, and screw in the middle of the gap.
Oh, and no matter how tight you make the screws on the clamps, if the rail wants to move in them, it will!
 
SteamySteve said:
Newbie question: if you clamp your rails doesn't this lead to track buckling due to expansion? On my 00 layouts I recall using a feeler gauge to leave an expansion gap - and that was indoors!

All the best,


Steve
Click to expand...
In the garden, a lot of people tend to let the whole track move for expansion (and contraction) - so, clamp the joints, or fix them firmly for best electrical connectivity, then only fix the sleepers every few yards, and allow the track to move outwards a few millimetres on the bends when the sun decides to shine :angel::angel:
 
Greg Elmassian said:
The over the joiner clamps are just as expensive as the ones that work directly on the rail, but they are less effective, since the only thing you are doing is tightening the joiner, if there is corrosion, dirt, oxidation between the joiner and the rails, the over the joiner clamp won't help.

Get the regular clamps and ditch the stock joiners.

Greg
Click to expand...
As much as I would love to do that. It means lifting one hell of a lot of track.
 
Thanks for your replies PhilP and Rhinochugger. Looks like less is more when fixing down the track. Hope I didn't take this too far off topic - but it seemed like a thread that the 'clampers' would be viewing.
 
Duncan, if you have LGB track, then you really have to pull it up to remove the joiners. Aristo, USAT, Piko can be done in place by bending the joiner. I can remove an Aristo SS joiner in about 45 seconds with a screwdriver and sometimes a pair of pliers are needed. The joiner is bent away on one side and pulled out from the other.

Greg
 
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