Rail Clamps or just Joiners ??

[Dtsteam]

I use soldered jumpers, but only because my track is so old that its been re-used 5 or 6 times. I keep a few over fishplate railclamps handy for running repairs - so far I haven't bothered going back with the soldering iron.
If I was starting out with shiny new track, then these days I wouldn't touch it with a soldering iron, but use the screws and grease first, and then over-fishplate clamps as the trouble spots emerge. My track stock will be knackered by the time I've finished with it (as will I in all probability), but in view of the high value in new track, its worth considering the least damaging methods first.
( which is pretty much what Max said, 'cept he can type faster'n me )

 

[bigjack]

I use a mixture of both clamps and joiners with great effect. if I find a problem I either use another clamp or track joining paste.

Both work well for me me

 

[peterbunce]

I use Hillman clamps on curves and at points, and fishplates soldered to one piece of track and copperease (made for fitting car brake components) on the straights.

The clamps hold the curved track (its Peco G45 flexitrack) well, and when moving them etc a quick blast of bike oil spray ensures that they undo easily.

The track is laid on top of Celcon blocks.

 

[mole]

After getting fed up with dodgey railjoint's have now changed over to spit jaw one's Helping a mate out at a couple of railway show's I got 200 clamp's for a very good price They hold the rails in place very firmly, and it so easy to change track or take turnout's out for maintance etc, but do not get tempted to over tighten then or you will bend the Hex screw thing, how do I know this ?

 

[DRG11]

Hi to you all,
Many thanks for the info on the clamps and fishplates, very helpfull...looks like I will be using a mixture where needed.

Thanks again gents & lasses

 

[GrahamMills]

I'm another one who uses the screwed Aristo track and don't have any problems. I'm pleased to see so many other people on the forum using this track, I always thought everyone else used LGB track.

I have stopped using graphite paste since it does not seem to be conductive which I think means that it is an insulator. Now I guess that most of the current goes through the screw but I am unclear why I should try to prevent the fishplates from helping.

 

[Tim Brien]

I continued to be amazed at how many take their track for granted. They spend thousands of pounds/dollars on the latest locomotive and rolling stock and yet quibble over the cost of rail clamps.

I started out with aristo stainless steel track and replaced the stock fishplate connectors with the then Aristo rail clamp as it was available (these were a brass casting that was nickel plated). I soon learned that all these were good for was boat anchors, due poor engineering design leading to them splitting down the longitudinal centreline of the clamp. I replaced these with Hillman nickel-plated clamps and fully endorse them. Alas, the family company was taken over by LGB of A and seemingly the stock situation became non-existent. I believe the original family company has since taken back control and supply is now available.

An interesting sidelight as regards manufacturing companies. Hillmans was operated out of the family garage. The garage was fitted with automated machinery to produce the clamps. The owner would start production at 0830 in the morning and leave for his real job. His wife would tend the machines during the day, ensuring raw material was available. At weekends, the family would sit around the kitchen table and hand pack every item.

I also have used Uncle Herm's rail clamps and while an excellent product, I feel the clamp profile is not suited to the cross-section shape of Aristo stainless rail. It is designed for brass track profile.

With over forty Aristo wide-radius switches/points, rail clamps make switch removal easier should an issue arise. Anecdotedly, I think in many years of operation, only one switch was removed and this was to send to Aristo as a 'production' model to show Aristo engineers the required clearances really needed to get better performance from these excellent switches. The retooled frog moulding came out of this exercise. Alas, Aristo did not incorporate my other suggestions to make this switch better.

Clamps are definately worth the expense.

 

[Railfan]

I have acquired a number of used rail clamps. They were used outside for a number of years and are very 'tarnished'. Is there a way to chemically clean them so they are nice and shiny brass? Of course, I don't want to spend the remainder of my life trying to manually clean them with Brasso. At the price of new clamps, I would really like to be able to use the 'previously loved' clamps.

 

[Gizzy]

I have acquired a number of used rail clamps. They were used outside for a number of years and are very 'tarnished'. Is there a way to chemically clean them so they are nice and shiny brass? Of course, I don't want to spend the remainder of my life trying to manually clean them with Brasso. At the price of new clamps, I would really like to be able to use the 'previously loved' clamps.

Simply leave them in vinegar, or Ketchup (catsup) sauce for a few minutes!

The (acetic) acid will remove the tarnish....

 

[Railfan]

I have acquired a number of used rail clamps. They were used outside for a number of years and are very 'tarnished'. Is there a way to chemically clean them so they are nice and shiny brass? Of course, I don't want to spend the remainder of my life trying to manually clean them with Brasso. At the price of new clamps, I would really like to be able to use the 'previously loved' clamps.

Simply leave them in vinegar, or Ketchup (catsup) sauce for a few minutes!

The (acetic) acid will remove the tarnish....

Thanks, Gizzy. I'll try the vinegar as I have two gallons that I picked up at the warehouse store. If I use ketchup, will I end up with 'red brass'?

 

[Zerogee]

I have acquired a number of used rail clamps. They were used outside for a number of years and are very 'tarnished'. Is there a way to chemically clean them so they are nice and shiny brass? Of course, I don't want to spend the remainder of my life trying to manually clean them with Brasso. At the price of new clamps, I would really like to be able to use the 'previously loved' clamps.

Simply leave them in vinegar, or Ketchup (catsup) sauce for a few minutes!

The (acetic) acid will remove the tarnish....

Thanks, Gizzy. I'll try the vinegar as I have two gallons that I picked up at the warehouse store. If I use ketchup, will I end up with 'red brass'?

A bit Off Topic, but big jars of cheap white vinegar also make a very effective weedkiller for paths and driveways. Totally safe for pets, kids and the environment generally, OK your path smells a bit like the local Chippy for a couple of days but it works a treat!

Jon.

 

[Railfan]

Weedkiller? I'll have to try that. Thanks for the tip, Zerogee.

 

[Gizzy]

I have acquired a number of used rail clamps. They were used outside for a number of years and are very 'tarnished'. Is there a way to chemically clean them so they are nice and shiny brass? Of course, I don't want to spend the remainder of my life trying to manually clean them with Brasso. At the price of new clamps, I would really like to be able to use the 'previously loved' clamps.

Simply leave them in vinegar, or Ketchup (catsup) sauce for a few minutes!

The (acetic) acid will remove the tarnish....

Thanks, Gizzy. I'll try the vinegar as I have two gallons that I picked up at the warehouse store. If I use ketchup, will I end up with 'red brass'?

If you're that concerned, then use brown sauce.... :thinking:

 

[Cyclone]

Reading this and really like the use of clamps on points.
Where is a good supplier of both 250 and code 332 clamps, cheaper the better as I don't use track power.

 

[beavercreek]

Hi Ed
Garden Railway Centres has some of both sizes.
http://www.gardenrailwaycentres.info/shop/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=28 < Link To http://www.gardenrailwayc...a=viewCat&catId=28

 

[Tim Brien]

I have used these in the past and recommend them. The seller is very easy to deal with and recommended. The clamps are more suited to brass rail profile and clamps are available in 250 and 332 profile. Maybe not so cheap but excellent quality.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/trackjoiners/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

 

[spike]

I have stopped using graphite paste since it does not seem to be conductive which I think means that it is an insulator. Now I guess that most of the current goes through the screw but I am unclear why I should try to prevent the fishplates from helping.

Thats correct Graham.
Non of the jointing pastes are anywhere near conducting.
I did quite a few tests at work with different voltages, upto a 1000Volts
and could'nt get any to conduct even with test probes nearly touching.

I suppose pastes may keep water out but that I doubt too as water always finds away.

When I have taken joints apart with Copper type paste that has been down a few years
the paste material is mostly gone but the copper seems to still be there.
LGB paste seems to stick better and seems more water resistant, so I mainly use that now.

As to clamps.....I have replaced most of the joints with clamps, Hillmans and Splitjaw.
I have retained a few fishplates on the stainless track as joints are no problem with stainless.

 

[Philbahn]

y track has been down eight years and is only just showing signs of power loss.
Most of my joints have jumpers on, but some are a bit difficult to reach and it's there where the fault lies so clamps are used there.
If your track is on a firm base board then clamps are an expese I can do with out.
If your track is vunerable to movement then clamps seem to be a must unless you use jumpers

 

[The Devonian]

I laid all Aristo-Craft track and switches/points over seven years ago. Conductivity is maintained using the screws that are an integral part of Aristo track. I never contemplated pastes, it seemed a messy sort of thing and unnecessary.
I will, at some point most likely, fit Aristo clamps where the switches/points arise but even so I have found it rare to need to remove a switch from the ROW.
I replaced the switch/point frogs with the improved version frog supplied by Aristo but other than that the only maintenance I have needed to do is to check the tightness of the screws on an annual basis. This is done during the summer and over a period of time doing a section at a time. It is also an ideal time to check ballast levels, remove seedlings in the ballast and prune any encroaching plants.

 

[Railfan]

I have acquired a number of used rail clamps. They were used outside for a number of years and are very 'tarnished'. Is there a way to chemically clean them so they are nice and shiny brass? Of course, I don't want to spend the remainder of my life trying to manually clean them with Brasso. At the price of new clamps, I would really like to be able to use the 'previously loved' clamps.

Simply leave them in vinegar, or Ketchup (catsup) sauce for a few minutes!

The (acetic) acid will remove the tarnish....

Thanks, Gizzy. The vinegar worked great. I soaked the clamps in water first and then brushed off any remaining dirt. I then left them in the vinegar overnight. Nice clean, slightly red, brass was left.