R1 Y Point

Yeah, I found it this afternoon, I'm just wondering how it would integrate into my railway, with the metal frogs etc. There's also no pictures....
I assume it is similar to the R0 and R2 versions. You would have to use insulated rail joiners on the inner rail ends as the whole frog changes polarity.
 
See the frog discussions on the previous page of this thread.... particularly my post no.20. ;)

There should be no power to the frog unless you opt to wire it up, as per Phil's comment above!

Jon.
 
Wondering now if I can manipulate a R1 corner, given it would only be for such as a Stainz and 4 wheel coaches. More resembling a R0 corner which I have had success with elsewhere on the layout. Or Flexi track.

Screenshot_20261109-173711~2.jpg
 
Well, that would probably be the cheapest solution! :D

Can you borrow a railbender to get the curve smooth? The better it is done, the less running problems you're likely to have.

Jon.
 
In fact looking at the points from Heyn, they appear to do a R1 Y. But the frogs looks different, as in all brass. Are Heyn points designed for non track power, as they would surely cause a short circuit?
Not sure about how the frog works, but as you are using EPL motors, use if the electrical switch and isolations either side of the frog will allow it to be non shorting when changed.
 
I'm not sure why the GRS R1 offering appears to be being avoided here. GRS hand built track works with regular track powered kit, look at how the frogs are isolated on the picture of the double slip I posted. It will be a straight fit, ok it's 24 inch radius not 24.0157 inches that an LGB R1 is. Same costruction on that code 250 R1, as with all the other GRS made I have, never had a short, wheel or skate pick ups. Does it come down to price ? Yes, £145 built not kit, is not cheap (+ an extra RH R1 point if you do not have in stock) but when you look at Heyn's at €145, and this is the kit price, and then you need to add shipping and import duty. Built it is €280 +. All that is left is can GRS do it as a code 332 ? Well, unless there is an issue making it with that tight radius and rail code, then yes. If not adaptors can fix the rail height issue.

Problem with a rail bender produced solution is that most benders do not bend the rail to the very end, you might have a small staight transition at each end. Then you have to produce a decent transtional curve in between in a very small section, will it work geometrically and not cause derailments ? You are looking at all up around £200 for an Xmas neighbour pleasing feature. That's your choice, I have committed far worse extravagances I will admit. Like the whole garden railway. I look forward to seeing the results and smiles on all the kids faces :)
 
Problem with a rail bender produced solution is that most benders do not bend the rail to the very end, you might have a small staight transition at each end. Then you have to produce a decent transtional curve in between in a very small section, will it work geometrically and not cause derailments ? You are looking at all up around £200 for an Xmas neighbour pleasing feature. That's your choice, I have committed far worse extravagances I will admit. Like the whole garden railway. I look forward to seeing the results and smiles on all the kids faces :)
Can you just use the rail bender in the middle of a longer piece of track, and just cut off the ends to suit?
 
I don’t see anything here mentioning that this is a turnaround loop.
If this isn’t a battery-powered locomotive but a DC or DCC setup, the loop’s power supply will need to be reversed before the locomotive can exit the loop and head toward the turnout.
Normally, this is done using a switch that you can install at the end of the turnout motor.
Attached is a diagram and explanation of a digital reverse loop and a analog loop as described in our book.
With a very small turnaround loop like the one shown here, the problem of a train that’s too long will naturally arise more quickly.
You could also consider fitting the last car with plastic wheels; that way, you might just be able to get that last car off the turnout in time before the locomotive returns to it.
Note: Please note that in the switch diagram by RBK (Rainer Kleinsteuber), the contacts are wired differently than in the LGB version. This is to prevent a possible short circuit that can occur in rare cases with the LGB circuit. This is explained in more detail in our book.

Gerard
 

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Can you just use the rail bender in the middle of a longer piece of track, and just cut off the ends to suit?
You could but it is an added bit of faff. What is of greater concern is the geometry you will end up with given the even tighter curvature required with the angement that dipenses with a proper Y point at those radii. Gérard also makes a point about possible conflicts by introducing a circle within an already small polarity controlled reversing loop when entering and leaving. That one is messing with my mind >:) Although if the whole train remains within the loop after entering then that should not conflict and as it exits likewise. Where are the polarity reversing triggers ?
 
Because it is NOT relevant to the question..... :cry:
Hm it is as creating the loop will make the entrance/exit to the loop shorter thus meaning possible problems with some if the longer trains run, never thought of that myself well spotted @Gerard
 
I guess I'm not looking at GRS because it's not a direct fit for R1, and the wooden sleepers, there's no way they're as future proof as plastic, in an outdoor environment.

It's is a reverse loop yes, and once trains have entered they could continue to run in circles, until aimed out of the circle, exiting the reverse loop. The electrics for that are already there.

See rough diagram below, red is isolators and reverse loop module. Blue is the idea of a novelty circuit. Not been ignoring you all, just didn't get any notifications for this thread.

Screenshot_20261111-132558~2.jpg
 
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