I never knew that!A short note, use black silicon sealer for anything exposed to sunlight. The colors of sealer follow the same rules as colors of plastic outdoors. Only black will survive... try clear zip ties vs black ones and see how quickly the clear ones fall apart.
Greg
Another tip for fixing the boards try dipping the screws into some silicone prior to fixing that way the hole is sealed (idea stolen from the fleet air arm helicopter builds).I forgot to add, because the cable trays are the pre-galvanised type and I'm cutting some of them too, I thought it worth giving them some extra protection.
They're fairly well protected being underneath the boards, but every little helps and I found a cheap and very quick way to do it.
A 1L tin of cold galvanising paint was £20 and easily did all of the trays, top and bottom. Using a mini roller made for incredibly quick and effective coverage.
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Once the cement boards were fixed all joins and holes were given a smear of clear silicone sealant, the idea being to limit the amount of water finding its way into the sides of the cement boards or worse, sitting between them and the cable trays
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Nice one, I saw the little helper bark out the instruction to go fasterThe track is about 2/3 done but I managed to get a ride around it today.
Like Santa, I had a 'little helper' although mine barked instructions and insisted on 'filling' the camera-gondola. Still, it's a bit of a milestone
A Railpro-controlled Lil Critter was chosen as the guinea pig, since it's the loco I minded least plummeting to the ground if it all went wrong.
Ride around part of the Orchard Line
I made a lift up bridge out of aluminium it is strong and light (SWMBO can lift it with ease) slightly under 1 metre long (about 900mm from memory).I think I’ve found a solution (thanks Dan, for the suggestions)
I think I need something versatile to use as a base on its own or to mount things to it.
Having used cable trays for the rest, I’m loathe to use one for this - even a narrow one will be quiet large and unwieldy with, I think, a fair bit of unnecessary material adding to the weight.
I’m looking at some aluminium 2020 section. A couple of these can be joined with steel 180 degree joiners to make an incredibly strong yet light bearer under each track....
Remembering what was said a few posts back about plastic, would be worth while to spray Halfords (or another make) of matt black spray, then a second coat of Halfords red primer (actually a brown) as an undercoat then your choice of final colour on top of this. The black stops plastic from degenerating, the brown will work nicely as a rust look if any of the top coat comes off.I made a lift up bridge out of aluminium it is strong and light (SWMBO can lift it with ease) slightly under 1 metre long (about 900mm from memory).
The box section is very rigid and the angle adds strength it is all pop riveted together.
Even though one picture shows it propped open, it does stay open by itself. I just used the prop for the photo as it was windy on the day.
The sides are cut from the bottom of an old bread crate, with a piece of al angle around the edge.
Blog has more details
Ringbalin Light Railway G Division: 9. Stage 2-June 2020 Lift Up Bridge Finished; Stage 2 is Complete (ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com)
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The hinge configuration is the opposite to convention in that the hinge is below the track level, this a drawing (drawn by Korm Kormsen) showing the method used.
The sides of this one are from an old bread crate, with a piece of al angle around the edge.
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The plastic has 3 coats of primer and 2 coats of silver paint, it was recycled for my previous layout where it spent 10 years in the garden in Australian weather.Remembering what was said a few posts back about plastic, would be worth while to spray Halfords (or another make) of matt black spray, then a second coat of Halfords red primer (actually a brown) as an undercoat then your choice of final colour on top of this. The black stops plastic from degenerating, the brown will work nicely as a rust look if any of the top coat comes off.
Nice looking lift bridge.
Here's my gap. The 'floating' righthand end will get a post underneath it. That concrete pad is to far to the left and needs to go
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Yes.Do you mean keep both parallel tracks on one frame, Phil?
I'd have thought keeping each one as a single entity would make lining them up and locating them easier because one isn't going to influence the other either in terms of installation, or in use, if they expand slightly differently.
Yes.
A single, slim span, will tend to twist and flex more.
A larger, more rigid structure, will be easier to line-up (a wider face) to each abutment.
Any 'slop' in the hinging, should be easier to control, as well.
Of course, if your background and expertise, is in wrangling metal, it may be a different story?
PhilP