Power for my Otto (and other)

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
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Only you can answer the 'sound' question..

You may well find 8 NiMH cells give you enough speed for your line with a small loco.

I'll 'PM@ you Jimmy..
 

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
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Jimmy, from personal experience I'd suggest a 4S1P (4 cells in series) Lith-Ion pack, giving you 2.6Ah capacity at 14.8 volts - you can buy the packs in "square" configuration (just a little bit larger than a pack of 4 "AA" batteries) or "flat" with the 4 cells side by side, which is handy for laying in the floor of a loco cab in something like a Stainz or an Otto. If you do go with the Lith-Ion battery chemistry, buy a decent quality pack with a built-in protection board - plus a matching charger - and you should have nothing to worry about.

A pack like this will run a single-motor loco for 5 hours or more.....


Jon.
 

a98087

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Around 12 v or 3/4s lipo pack is ideal voltage, it’s gives a good realistic top speed and Is still not to fast that if young children use it carnage’s would happen.

I use 3s lipo, my advice I say standardise on a connection type- I use jst on everything it makes it easy to movement things arohng and modify looms,

Also a fuse is a very good idea as lipo battery can kick out sometime very serious amps when shorted out, just look at the size of the wires on the large amperage packs

Dan
 

Zerogee

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..........

I use 3s lipo, my advice I say standardise on a connection type- I use jst on everything it makes it easy to movement things arohng and modify looms,

Also a fuse is a very good idea as lipo battery can kick out sometime very serious amps when shorted out, just look at the size of the wires on the large amperage packs

Dan

I would say that a fuse is MANDATORY in ANY setup, regardless of battery chemistry.... for a single-motor loco I'd use a 2amp quick-blow inline fuse.
Wholeheartedly agree on standardising connectors too - I use the red JST ones bought in bulk from evilBay for a whole load of different purposes.

Jon.
 

JimmyB

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So last week with the hope of a donor wagon on its way I started to assemble my components for bench testing (Deltang 65c Rx and MLS), not being good with electronics I have tried to make everything modular so I can plug it together and take it apart for re-assemble in the wagon:

View media item 4120
The donor wagon arrived:

View media item 4121
The inside before work began:

View media item 4122
The underside before work began:

View media item 4126
Chassis cut about and hole drilled for the speaker:

View media item 4125
Battery and speaker in place with insulation around the battery:

View media item 4119
Cover over the speaker, and Rx and MLS fitted:

View media item 4124
Everything re-assembled, showing the power switch and charging point:

View media item 4123
A rolling road and indoor test shows every works, I just need to strip down the Otto to isolate from the track and put LEDs in !!
 

playmofire

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I't's been a hectic week, Jimmy, which is why I hadn't been able to get back to you about measurments, but looking at that, you would have been hard pressed to everything into the tender I'd suggested even if you removed the baffles.
 

PhilP

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Jimmy,
Just check the data-sheet for your battery pack.. Does it say it has a protection board built-in?

PhilP.
 

Railway42

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Hi Jimmy ,
I have just been reading your post
I have a radio controlled set up and DCC railway in my garden plus a display railway and I am a retired
electronics engineer. I live in Cheddar and I am wondering if you would like to send me a PM with your telephone number
I would be only too pleased to invite you along for a chat and see if I can help you with your problems.
Alan