Points

[Jayarmin]

Hi all, Please forgive me as if this question has been asked before but I’m a total Newby to DCC
Do I have to do anything to the points to be able to run Dcc?
i’m talking ,straight out of the box and running Dcc
Do I need to do any Additional wiring or modifications to the points

many thanks

 

[Greg Elmassian]

In general not to the points. But depending on the design, if you make a "reversing loop" where the outside rail eventually connects to the inside rail in a loop, then you need insulators and a small gadget called an autoreverser.

So, you make these loops with points, thus part of the "myth" of "DCC friendly" points.

Greg

 

[Jayarmin]

Great thank you

 

[curtis]

Hi all, Please forgive me as if this question has been asked before but I’m a total Newby to DCC
Do I have to do anything to the points to be able to run Dcc?
i’m talking ,straight out of the box and running Dcc
Do I need to do any Additional wiring or modifications to the points

many thanks

The points themselves will work with DC or DCC.

To extend Gregs answers. If you want to control the points with DCC - you essentially need two things:

1. Point Motor (to throw the points)
2. Decoder (to tell the point motor to throw the points)

So, if you were to buy these LGB R1 Electric Points, they already come with the point motor so you would need a decoder of some kind. If you have manual points (without a motor) you would need the motor and a decoder.

I use LGB Point Motors (others are available) with MD Electronics decoders. They have 4 models that can control 1point, 2, 4 points or 8. There are many others available too.

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi all, Please forgive me as if this question has been asked before but I’m a total Newby to DCC
Do I have to do anything to the points to be able to run Dcc?
i’m talking ,straight out of the box and running Dcc
Do I need to do any Additional wiring or modifications to the points

many thanks

In theory no mods with LGB points, however R3 ones can occasionally have a flashover by the dead frog causing a short circuit and possible shut off of the MTS DCC system. This can also be an issue with Peco G points as well. Trainline 45 (TL) points have a live frog that on some is connected via a reed switch to change polarity thus needing no wiring however if that is not present the frog is essentially dead. For these I have fitted a micro Switch that carries out the polarity change. However again on the TL points the rails after the frog are quite close and on occasion have caused shorts on my line.

These shorts or flashovers in all cases tend to be caused by the LGB and other makes of Track Wiper Pickup Skate, this can be resolved by carefully bending the skate upwards a little so that it connects with the rail at the closest end to the loco. The skate is best removed to undertake this operation. Not though this is not an issue with all locomotives so you may never encounter it.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Jon went to the heart of the matter if your concern springs from "DCC friendly" concerns. Some people also add some insulating varnish (even nail polish) where the skate could bridge rails of opposing polarity.

Greg

 

[dunnyrail]

Jon went to the heart of the matter if your concern springs from "DCC friendly" concerns. Some people also add some insulating varnish (even nail polish) where the skate could bridge rails of opposing polarity.

Greg

Yes on my serious LGB issue points I have placed a bit of insulating tape. Not an issue now that I am all Battery Power in the Garden.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I believe the "skates" on MTH locos, popular in the states are wider than LGB and this causes issues on frogs that have metal rails of opposing polarity. No issues with all plastic frogs, or "live" frogs that are all metal and are switched to the correct polarity.

It's just the frogs that do not have switched frogs with metal rails.

I guess I should get some pictures to make this more clear.

Greg