MTS decoder problem

[Mohawk Valley]

I’ve recently bought a LGB 21471 rack engine, which has a MTS sound decoder fitted.
Trying it on my system using a DIGITRAX DCS51 controller and a Gaugemaster prodigy 2, I get no reaction whatsoever. It makes no difference what address I put in, the engine is simply dead. Likewise on DC totally dead. Reading CV 1 returned a break in circuit response…
The engine has been sent back to the retailer where it was bought. They’ve just phoned me to say they tested it on a Maerklin DCC set up and it works perfectly! On a couple of other systems they have, there was very limited functionality. So…
My question is, is there a specific CV setting that enables all operating systems to work? Is there a DIP switch that needs to be switched on?
The retailers have tried a factory reset and it made no difference running perfectly well on the Maerklin system!
Advice please as I do really like the engine.

Cheers
Martin

 

[FatherMcD]

I’ve recently bought a LGB 21471 rack engine, which has a MTS sound decoder fitted.
Trying it on my system using a DIGITRAX DCS51 controller and a Gaugemaster prodigy 2, I get no reaction whatsoever. It makes no difference what address I put in, the engine is simply dead. Likewise on DC totally dead. Reading CV 1 returned a break in circuit response…
The engine has been sent back to the retailer where it was bought. They’ve just phoned me to say they tested it on a Maerklin DCC set up and it works perfectly! On a couple of other systems they have, there was very limited functionality. So…
My question is, is there a specific CV setting that enables all operating systems to work? Is there a DIP switch that needs to be switched on?
The retailers have tried a factory reset and it made no difference running perfectly well on the Maerklin system!
Advice please as I do really like the engine.

Cheers
Martin

Nice little engine. Hope you are able to get it functioning.

 

[palmerston]

Best practice to test it on another or different DCC system, maybe a friend has.

 

[pugwash]

If it was HO I would say it was a Märklin MFX decoder, those are all the symptoms.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Well, it’s been ‘fixed’ and is on its way back to me. I will post more information on this when it returns. At the moment, I can’t remember which version of decoder it is, but I know a lot of the CV’s were not reading what they should do…more later!

 

[andyspencer]

I’ve recently bought a LGB 21471 rack engine, which has a MTS sound decoder fitted.
Trying it on my system using a DIGITRAX DCS51 controller and a Gaugemaster prodigy 2, I get no reaction whatsoever. It makes no difference what address I put in, the engine is simply dead. Likewise on DC totally dead. Reading CV 1 returned a break in circuit response…
The engine has been sent back to the retailer where it was bought. They’ve just phoned me to say they tested it on a Maerklin DCC set up and it works perfectly! On a couple of other systems they have, there was very limited functionality. So…
My question is, is there a specific CV setting that enables all operating systems to work? Is there a DIP switch that needs to be switched on?
The retailers have tried a factory reset and it made no difference running perfectly well on the Maerklin system!
Advice please as I do really like the engine.

Cheers
Martin

I'm pretty sure this loco was factory fitted with a driving decoder but no sound. So if it has sound, that will almost certainly be aftermarket. That may be your issue when trying to read CV's, if there's two decoders in the model. There won't be any dip switches inside. You could try moving the cab switch back one position, to disable the sound (providing the factory decoder is still fitted) and try and read CV29. You may find DC mode has been turned off.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

I'm pretty sure this loco was factory fitted with a driving decoder but no sound. So if it has sound, that will almost certainly be aftermarket. That may be your issue when trying to read CV's, if there's two decoders in the model. There won't be any dip switches inside. You could try moving the cab switch back one position, to disable the sound (providing the factory decoder is still fitted) and try and read CV29. You may find DC mode has been turned off.

Thanks for your input Andy, always useful. From the documentation I’ve seen, the LGB owners manual, 24171 has not got factory sound fitted. There were documents with the engine that pointed to sound, but I can’t remember what they said exactly. When the engine arrives back here I will have a better idea. Obviously, in the intervening years, God knows what has happened to it. The Four way switch has been removed, which makes me think the decoder has been replaced at some time, in fact there is on one of the sheets that came with the engine a penned remark that the decoder had been upgraded to??? I can’t remember exactly what it said.
From what I can gather, the engine is now running and sounding as it should, CV49 is apparently set to 19! Seems a little odd to me, but it runs now on both DCC and DC. When I get it back, I’ll try it out and if there are problems, I’ll phone you and possibly bring it over for you to take a look at if that’s ok?
Cheers
Martin

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Ok, the engine has returned and I’ve just tested it on the Digitrax setup I have in the workshop. After a little coaxing, (dirty track) she burst into life with sound and lights and ran exceedingly well. The chuff rate or starting voltage needs to be altered as the sound starts before the engine moves, and I think it’s only running on 14 steps as it takes off very quickly.
According to the info that’s with it, a Massoth eMotion XLS Sounddekoder version 2.2 is fitted, but a hand written note across the front states “upgraded to version 3.7. 29/06/16
Now to find out if I can change to get it to accept 128 speed steps etc…sadly, the decoder instruction booklet in all German…online I go methinks.
Cheers
Martin

 

[PhilP]

Now to find out if I can change to get it to accept 128 speed steps etc…sadly, the decoder instruction booklet in all German…online I go methinks.

Read, and note the value of CV29..

PhilP.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

If only I could…went back to the workshop after lunch, attempted to read cv29 and d_nr result…now nothing. I even tried it on the layout…nothing at all, except when I pressed down on the engine from the top, there was a sound and the lights flickered…
I suspect a connection problem somewhere…

 

[PhilP]

Clean the skates, the tyres and backs of the wheels, where the carbon brushes contact..
Give the track a wipe over, as well..

PhilP.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Thanks Phil, done all of that…still dead. Bottom panel off tomorrow to look at primary connections…it’s dead on analogue as well…

 

[PhilP]

Of course, analogue can be turned off within the decoder settings..

PhilP.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Thanks Phil,
According to the retailer, it’s been tested and ran well on analogue.
Cheers
Martin

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Ok…update!

I’ve solve the pickup problem, there is a nylon connecting block which presses down over the two pick up rods that are ‘attached’ to the brushes and skates. Body off…so easy compared to a Stainz, reconnect and test on track…works fine!
Another problem has reared its head now…the little crank as shown has broken, I cannot say if I’ve done it or it’s been like that for some time. Anyway, I’ve managed to superglue the three parts together and as it doesn’t actually revolve on its axis, square crank pin to stop it revolving, I’m hoping it will hold. I have the guys at Grootspur looking for one in their massive spares collection as the set you have to buy is no longer available. If push comes to shove, I do know a very good 3d printer who can possibly make one for me.
The saga continues…too hot up there for today.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Well the superglue didn’t hold…anyone got a crank as in pics above…
CV29 reads 6, which is what I think it should be…
Adjusted take off speed and chuff rate to a more presentable level, although I might have to fine tune the chuff rate a bit. Oh, working fine on analogue.
Lights were far too bright so they’ve been dimmed to a more acceptable level…
More to come
Cheers
Martin

 

[Software Tools]

Well the superglue didn’t hold…

Something that has worked for me with small fiddly parts is to not just reply on gluing a butt joint (which usually fails), is to back the part with a metal shim, shaped as appropriate, made from the metal material that many medical ointment tubes are made from. It gives a much larger surface area for the adhesive to get a grip onto.

It may not be practical for this particular part, but it might be worth a try.

 

[dunnyrail]

Something that has worked for me with small fiddly parts is to not just reply on gluing a butt joint (which usually fails), is to back the part with a metal shim, shaped as appropriate, made from the metal material that many medical ointment tubes are made from. It gives a much larger surface area for the adhesive to get a grip onto.

It may not be practical for this particular part, but it might be worth a try.

I have done that with repairs to Rods and it has been successful for me, another tip use Araldite for the glue allow a good overnight dry then clean up with Swiss files.

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Something that has worked for me with small fiddly parts is to not just reply on gluing a butt joint (which usually fails), is to back the part with a metal shim, shaped as appropriate, made from the metal material that many medical ointment tubes are made from. It gives a much larger surface area for the adhesive to get a grip onto.

It may not be practical for this particular part, but it might be worth a try.

That’s a great idea…I’ll try it and report back. Might be a few days though as I’m really busy with other things at the moment.
Cheers
Martin

 

[Mohawk Valley]

Something that has worked for me with small fiddly parts is to not just reply on gluing a butt joint (which usually fails), is to back the part with a metal shim, shaped as appropriate, made from the metal material that many medical ointment tubes are made from. It gives a much larger surface area for the adhesive to get a grip onto.

It may not be practical for this particular part, but it might be worth a try.

I’ll try that along with araldite. Thanks for the tip. I’ll try a small washer with the centre hole filed to size and square(ish).
The nice thing about out it is that it’s not a running critical part. The engine still runs very well and if you turn it around so the other side faces you…you’d never know it was missing…