Peco Flexi Track

[JimmyB]

I use the dremel max saw (current version is max ultra). It cuts up to 3/4" lumber, steel, tiles, etc. with different blades. I adjust blade cut to the depth of a rail. The saw is solid enough to give you a firm grip to allow in-situ cutting. Cuts very quickly so the rail doesn't heat too badly. Also a very handy saw for many home projects.
View attachment 312656

Yep, that is what is in my link DSM 20

 

[Dan]

I used to use the dremel but now I use the Milwauke (battery operated and much more power and very portable!!) with dremel fixtures. I also used the mini chop saw by harbor freight, 15 years on the same blade cutting brass track.

 

[FatherMcD]

I used to use the dremel but now I use the Milwauke (battery operated and much more power and very portable!!) with dremel fixtures. I also used the mini chop saw by harbor freight, 15 years on the same blade cutting brass track.

Is it this one? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-3-in-Cut-Off-Saw-Tool-Only-2522-20/305663849 I noticed this when shopping for the Dremel and thought about it mainly because I have a stable of Milwaukee tools.

 

[JohnSol]

John, have you ever actually used one of these to cut rails?

Yes

Your post sounds theoretical rather than from direct experience.

I do have practical experience.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

So, several people, including myself have no problems NOT melting the plastic. I've been doing it since at least 2009 and have never had this issue, I have about 850 feet of track with many cuts, and it is all stainless steel, which takes much longer to cut and heats more.

So, what tool and what specific blade did you use that indeed melted the ties? (based on your answers that you did cut rail with an abrasive cutoff wheel and you did melt plastic)

I'd like to know what combination you used that failed and be sure to avoid that.

Greg

 

[JimmyB]

I do think this thread is getting boring (IMHO), and has drift far from the subject. It seems to degraded in to snipping about how to cut track, we all have our own methods for cutting track in various situations, and each to their own, if it works (or doesn't) you do it your way.
So unless this moves back to Peco Flexi, I think this should be locked

 

[FatherMcD]

Yes, the thread has drifted and perhaps a new thread is in order. (Is there a way to move the track cutting content to a new thread?) I don't find it boring because I haven't cut track before and would like the benefit of the collective experience before sinking some money into a tool that has perhaps proved less than useful to someone else. I would prefer a power tool as I have trouble gripping hand tools for any length of time. I did find a thread on cutting short pieces of track, but that soon drifted into how to remove LGB rail joiners. I'm hoping Dan will answer my question in post #43 and perhaps elaborate on which Dremel fixtures he uses and why not Milwaukee?

 

[dunnyrail]

Erm the thread started with cutting peco flexi track, perhaps the Peco title was a bit if a diversion. But the principle of cutting track in our scale whether Peco or LGB (or Piko, TrainLine45, Aristo or others) is much the same, or am I missing something?

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I think all the best methods have been presented, with a number of people presenting powered means to cut.

I've used all the methods in this thread, and have one of each of all the tools mentioned.

I'm very happy with the large diameter, thin, quick change dremel carbide blades specifically formulated for metal.

In most cases I use my regular dremel, but in situ, I will use the skinny extension handset.

I've never melted or damaged any plastic ties.

Greg

 

[FatherMcD]

Erm the thread started with cutting peco flexi track, perhaps the Peco title was a bit if a diversion. But the principle of cutting track in our scale whether Peco or LGB (or Piko, TrainLine45, Aristo or others) is much the same, or am I missing something?

Point taken. I went back and looked at the first post. I will admit to being diverted by the title. I need to go back and review the posts, but Greg's summary seems "spot on." (not a common American expression, well, Idaho at any rate.) Perhaps I'm just looking for an excuse to buy the MIlwaukee cut off saw. It is a cool saw and I'm sure I would have lots of uses for it. And I do have a 10% off coupon that I should use. Maybe I'd better try the Dremel with the angle extension and Max Life Diamond Wheel that I already have.

Just a slightly off topic FYI. I need to cut track because I've been unhappy with the 3 LGB 10090 extendable straights that I've used on my version of The Two-Door RR from Fun With Electric Trains by Jim Kelly. Metal wheels especially don't ride well over them and I haven't found them very durable.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Have you considered these?

Brass Code 332 rail expansion section. New Design! | www.RAILCLAMP.com

New design made from genuine LGB rail combined with our own design for the plastic base. We use PETG plastic material that is durable, stable up to over 300 degrees F, and even flame resistant to UL 94. PLA plastic base material is durable and even flame resistant to UL 94. We incude two pairs...

www.railclamp.com

 

[FatherMcD]

Have you considered these?

Brass Code 332 rail expansion section. New Design! | www.RAILCLAMP.com

New design made from genuine LGB rail combined with our own design for the plastic base. We use PETG plastic material that is durable, stable up to over 300 degrees F, and even flame resistant to UL 94. PLA plastic base material is durable and even flame resistant to UL 94. We incude two pairs...

www.railclamp.com

Yes, thank you. But I better start a new thread to discuss them. Part of my version of the Two-Door RR.

 

[Andrew Smith]

Thanks for all the comments folks, they are really helpful and I have invested in a Dremel cutter.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Have you considered these?

Brass Code 332 rail expansion section. New Design! | www.RAILCLAMP.com

New design made from genuine LGB rail combined with our own design for the plastic base. We use PETG plastic material that is durable, stable up to over 300 degrees F, and even flame resistant to UL 94. PLA plastic base material is durable and even flame resistant to UL 94. We incude two pairs...

www.railclamp.com

That looks quite sophisticated but, in my (limited) experience I would say that the clamps are the wrong way round. If you are planning to use track sections that are slightly different, you want the inside edge to be consistent, therefor the split side of the clamp needs to be on the outside. Yep, I know that presents a problem with tightening the clamp, but you can get hex drivers with a ball-type head (there's probably a correct name for that). I did something similar with some Accucraft split clamps that I had when I was joining LGB profile rail to Aristocraft and while the height is the same (Code 332) the profile of the flange at the foot is different.

 

[ByngGiraud]

It all depend on the amount of cutting you want to do. Yes, a good chop is necessary for many quick cuts, but for me, a plain old hacksaw with a fine tooth blade works quite well.
Cut just a hair too long, but then a bench grinder is necessary, with the tool rest set and a fine abrasive stone wheel you can polish the rail end to a perfect length.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I have about 200 clamps.... i get your logic, but in practice it does not seem to matter unless you use very different rails at the joiner...

It's all about access the the hex socket cap screws... on the inside is a real pain.

For rail with a different foot, I would agree with you.

Even with a ball head driver, the angle sucks with screws on the inside... and a ball head driver does not have the contact area of a full allen head screw.

 

[Paul M]

and a ball head driver does not have the contact area of a full allen head screw.

They seem to strip the hex as well, so you can't undo them.
You could grind the end of a standard key, to make it shorter and easier to fit

 

[GAP]

They seem to strip the hex as well, so you can't undo them.
You could grind the end of a standard key, to make it shorter and easier to fit

Or use a right angle one less than 45mm long on the short length.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I have about 200 clamps.... i get your logic, but in practice it does not seem to matter unless you use very different rails at the joiner...

It's all about access the the hex socket cap screws... on the inside is a real pain.

For rail with a different foot, I would agree with you.

Even with a ball head driver, the angle sucks with screws on the inside... and a ball head driver does not have the contact area of a full allen head screw.

Or use a right angle one less than 45mm long on the short length.

Yep, I agree - but you have to remember two things:

1. I'm a contrary sort of person, so I tend to go and do the opposite of what seems sensible a lot of the time.
2. There is quite a difference in the foot of the profile of LGB and Aristo track.

If I remember rightly, 'cos this was on the old garden layout, I lifted the track and angled the ball-head driver to the clamp from underneath the sleepers to get a less acute angle.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yeah, my track is all floating in ballast, lifting it would take hours of work to put it back level.

I've not found extreme differences in LGB and Aristo track, but I will definitely say I've found differences WITHIN Aristo track... seems they ALWAYS farmed out the rail manufacture to different companies, they could only mold plastic, not draw rail... the ties were consistent (except when they "forgot" the UV additive).

Greg