Peco Flexi Track

Andrew Smith

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Hi, What's the best way to cut flexi track, are specific tools required?

Andrew
 
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I use a carbide cutoff wheel on a hand tool "Dremel", makes a clean, controllable cut and does not distort the rail.


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Paul M

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An extremely useful tool to have. In fact almost a must really. Not only is it very good for cutting and drilling, there's so many attachments for its enhancement.
The only thing is, it's a bit difficult to cut the track en situ as you may find the body hits the ground before the cut is complete
 

maxi-model

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Junior hacksaw. Rotary tool or a fine flat miniature file to clean up the ends, if nessesary.

As Paul says a rotary tool is a bit awkward to use "in the field" but anyway I never cut in-situ (my line is ground based). While I have a drill stand, flexible dive and 100 watt rotary tool its not an application I have put them to. Cut off wheels, even the reinforced type are slow, prone to break if not used with care. They also have tendency to "catch" causing all sorts of mayhem. Max
 
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I'm not demeaning the suggestion, but when i used a saw, even a small razor saw, it seemed to put undue stress on the "spikes", the plastic parts that hold the rail to the ties.

This has been my experience (also it takes a lot longer ha ha!)

greg
 

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A fine toothed hacksaw, use a pair of pliers to hold the rail, push down to hold the rail from moving about and cutting against the pliers is easier than trying to cut to a mark.

As others have hinted don't use a 'dremal' type tool with a cutting wheel as that is liable to shatter, and cause damage to you.

David
 

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I use a 5" angle grinder with an ultra thin ceramic cut off wheel (1mm thick), the track is anchored by timber between the rails held by G clamps or screwed down.
 

LGeoB

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The quick release disks are very good at slicing through tendons, blood vessels and nerves. You can guess how I know!
 

dunnyrail

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I found a Junior Hacksaw with a new blade works well. However it is also worthwhile to have some preasure on the rail to help. I have a short length of 2x1” timber with 45mm rail groves cut in to hold things steady when pressed down during cutting.
 

JimmyB

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I use a Dremel, and the quick release disks and never had one shatter, the small ones, yes. Also the flexi extension allows the body to get closer to the track.
I should have added where the track is in position
I found a Junior Hacksaw with a new blade works well. However it is also worthwhile to have some preasure on the rail to help. I have a short length of 2x1” timber with 45mm rail groves cut in to hold things steady when pressed down during cutting.
Cutting track before fitting, a good vice and a 32 tpi hacksaw.
 

maxi-model

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I'm not demeaning the suggestion, but when i used a saw, even a small razor saw, it seemed to put undue stress on the "spikes", the plastic parts that hold the rail to the ties.

This has been my experience (also it takes a lot longer ha ha!)

greg

No offence taken. The picture below may illustrate the issue I have with cut off wheels. OK for trimming or "facing" the ends but yet to find one that is large enough, or that does not wear down too quickly, to make a perpendicular cut practicable further in.

Hacksaw can do both rails at same time and get the ends level. Not noticed any broken chairs using this method. Different strokes for different folks I suppose :) Max

IMG_20230417_104942_869~2.jpg
 

Rhinochugger

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Notice the new cutoff disks are large in diameter, so you can cut the rail by lying the tool on the track.. you can also get an even thinner extension to make this easier:

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I was just about to say that - the normal Dremel cutting tool doesn't have a large enough diameter to get a nice cut.

I've always relied on a hacksaw.

The point is that you don't need a perfect cut, nor a perfect rail joint. As I frequently re-affirm, I am an expert in badly laid track, and have very few derailments, none of which are due to may appalling track, with one exception, the Yeti doesn't like to take a certain 8ft curve in one direction, but it does have extremely fine flanges and quite a long wheelbase.

This video is quite instructive, although not everything in the 1:1 world translates into our 1:20 world.

 

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The Range sell a very acceptable Dremel alternative. I use Cliff Barker stainless steel track, so the only thing that will cut it well is the mini cutting discs.

Eye protection is a must. It's not only if a disc was to fail - it can happen, but also the dust and metal filings that fly off during cutting.
 

JimmyB

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