OcCre Trams - Adhesive advice

[JimmyB]

As some of you will have seen I am now in the possession on the OcCre San Francisco Streetcar, Having read through the instructions and watched the videos, I would appreciate some advice as there seems to be some contradictions, the instructions inform to use:
Use white glue for wood,
Use fast-acting glue for part difficult to hold in position, and small parts.
Use transparent contact adhesive for window to frames.

However watching the video it would seems that "super glue" is used throughout. my assumptions are
White glue is PVA wood glue,
Fast acting glue is super glue, but there are various types these days which one,
However what is "transparent contact adhesive"

Some pointers would be appreciated, many thanks.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

There is something called contact cement, which applied to both sides, let dry a few minutes and pressed together makes an instant joint at pretty close to full strength.

Don't know the UK trade name, but: (I have seen in spray and in a bottle with an applicator/dauber)

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/cbgnawus1408/

 

[Rhinochugger]

For my wooden models - loco, coach, wagon sides - I did a bit of research and settled on Titebond 2 as an external waterproof wood glue. It takes time to set, so you need to clamp the parts being glued, but it is about as strong as Cascamite and easier to use.

 

[PhilP]

Do a search for aliphatic glue..
You can clamp the parts together, and you can get a very fine applicator..
You then run a thin line of glue along the joint.. In will wick into the joint, and is strong enough to handle (but be careful) after 20 minutes.

Works as long as one surface is absorbent.

PhilP

 

[Rhinochugger]

Do a search for aliphatic glue..
You can clamp the parts together, and you can get a very fine applicator..
You then run a thin line of glue along the joint.. In will wick into the joint, and is strong enough to handle (but be careful) after 20 minutes.

Works as long as one surface is absorbent.

PhilP

Titebond 2 - I'd forgotten the technical name

 

[Paul M]

I've got some this, it seems to stick most things, but I haven't tried it on glazing.

 

[dunnyrail]

I was using PVA originally when I was building the Wisbech Tram Car but on Matts recommendation switched to ‘Speed Bond’ which is a 5 minute setting variation of a clear drying PVA. Still needed to clamp some parts together but many stuck just fine by the application and leaving for a few minutes.

Deluxe Materials Speed Bond - 500g

Jadlam Toys & Models are an online Toy and Model shop, we specialise in Scalextric, Hornby, Tamiya, LEGO, Airfix, Plastic Models Kits, Sylvanian Families and much more...

www.jadlamracingmodels.com

 

[Software Tools]

Using model aircraft canopy glue is a good idea for windows. It is fast drying and dries clear, so if any gets onto the visible part of a window it will not be noticeable.

 

[JimmyB]

All many thanks for the responses, as usual the forum have come good, and I now have a couple of ways forward.

There is something called contact cement, which applied to both sides, let dry a few minutes and pressed together makes an instant joint at pretty close to full strength.

Don't know the UK trade name, but: (I have seen in spray and in a bottle with an applicator/dauber)

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/cbgnawus1408/

Greg, not sure this would be what was meant, as I don't think it would work with the glazing, thanks though

For my wooden models - loco, coach, wagon sides - I did a bit of research and settled on Titebond 2 as an external waterproof wood glue. It takes time to set, so you need to clamp the parts being glued, but it is about as strong as Cascamite and easier to use.

Rhino, looks the business

Do a search for aliphatic glue..
You can clamp the parts together, and you can get a very fine applicator..
You then run a thin line of glue along the joint.. In will wick into the joint, and is strong enough to handle (but be careful) after 20 minutes.

Works as long as one surface is absorbent.

PhilP

Phil, search brought out lost of good answers, including Rhino's suggestion, definitely on the shopping list, once I have decided which one.

View attachment 293760
I've got some this, it seems to stick most things, but I haven't tried it on glazing.

Paul, looked this up, most contact adhesives need to be applied to both surfaces, but I cannot find anything in the blurb, if this is single surface application could be what I am looing for.

I was using PVA originally when I was building the Wisbech Tram Car but on Matts recommendation switched to ‘Speed Bond’ which is a 5 minute setting variation of a clear drying PVA. Still needed to clamp some parts together but many stuck just fine by the application and leaving for a few minutes.

Deluxe Materials Speed Bond - 500g

Jadlam Toys & Models are an online Toy and Model shop, we specialise in Scalextric, Hornby, Tamiya, LEGO, Airfix, Plastic Models Kits, Sylvanian Families and much more...

www.jadlamracingmodels.com

Not sure if this is what you meant, but come out of the above search:

Super PHATIC ALIPHATIC Glue Fast Drying, Bonds Wood, Foam Paper ETC : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

Super PHATIC ALIPHATIC Glue Fast Drying, Bonds Wood, Foam Paper ETC : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

www.amazon.co.uk

Using model aircraft canopy glue is a good idea for windows. It is fast drying and dries clear, so if any gets onto the visible part of a window it will not be noticeable.

I have some Deluxe "Glue and Glaze" which I understand is also called "Canopy Glue", which will be my fall back solution

 

[dunnyrail]

All many thanks for the responses, as usual the forum have come good, and I now have a couple of ways forward.


Greg, not sure this would be what was meant, as I don't think it would work with the glazing, thanks though



Rhino, looks the business



Phil, search brought out lost of good answers, including Rhino's suggestion, definitely on the shopping list, once I have decided which one.



Paul, looked this up, most contact adhesives need to be applied to both surfaces, but I cannot find anything in the blurb, if this is single surface application could be what I am looing for.



Not sure if this is what you meant, but come out of the above search:

Super PHATIC ALIPHATIC Glue Fast Drying, Bonds Wood, Foam Paper ETC : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

Super PHATIC ALIPHATIC Glue Fast Drying, Bonds Wood, Foam Paper ETC : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

www.amazon.co.uk

I have some Deluxe "Glue and Glaze" which I understand is also called "Canopy Glue", which will be my fall back solution

Packing looks similar but appear to be different products on the 2 searches. Did you do speed bond in Amazon?

 

[PhilP]

The Super 'Phatic, is the glue that I was thinking of..
It might seem expensive, but with the fine applicator, it is very economical, in use.

PhilP

 

[3 minutes of fame]

My Occre trams have been built with the Speedbond I recommended to Jon and a good quality cyno for the metal parts. They make for a strong model with no issues a year after building and many trips around the garden layout.

Glue and Glaze is perfect for fixing the glazing and I also used it to create the lenses for the illuminated headlights on my cars as well.

I think the Super Phatic! is a runnier version of the Speedbond. We were given about 20 litres of Speedbond when we did the Great Model Railway Challenge TV show and we're all still working through it. One of the team does a lot of aero modelling and won't use anything else now, as he says it's the strongest PVA he's found, but is very easy to precisely apply. As he flies scale jet fighters fitted with jet turbine engines, he does get through quite a bit when things go a little wrong...

 

[JimmyB]

The Super 'Phatic, is the glue that I was thinking of..
It might seem expensive, but with the fine applicator, it is very economical, in use.

PhilP

Phil, I have heard this has a shortish shelf life, less than 12 months and sets solid in the container!!

 

[JimmyB]

My Occre trams have been built with the Speedbond I recommended to Jon and a good quality cyno for the metal parts. They make for a strong model with no issues a year after building and many trips around the garden layout.

Glue and Glaze is perfect for fixing the glazing and I also used it to create the lenses for the illuminated headlights on my cars as well.

I think the Super Phatic! is a runnier version of the Speedbond. We were given about 20 litres of Speedbond when we did the Great Model Railway Challenge TV show and we're all still working through it. One of the team does a lot of aero modelling and won't use anything else now, as he says it's the strongest PVA he's found, but is very easy to precisely apply. As he flies scale jet fighters fitted with jet turbine engines, he does get through quite a bit when things go a little wrong...

Many thanks for OcCre recommendations, Super Phatic! does have some negative feedback, including remaining flexible, and "going off" in less than 12 months, it looks like it could be speedbond.

 

[Paul M]

Paul, looked this up, most contact adhesives need to be applied to both surfaces, but I cannot find anything in the blurb, if this is single surface application could be what I am looing for.

I've tried single surface and it seems to work well, but I've not used it it much, I bought it for some model buildings I recently acquired