I have two Accucraft live steamers (I just got in from steaming one of them
), and the advice you've been given is all good. I do like the look of the GVT tram loco, but I really don't need another loco - I only have a small line
Both of mine are two channel radio control (I converted one from manual, because it was difficult to control - radio control is much easier, especially if the line is not completely flat), but I've run on one channel when e.g. a servo isn't working. Single channel on the reverser is a perfectly good way to run - open the reverser gently to let steam into the cylinders, and use the fine adjustment on the radio control if you need to. You may find you need to give the loco a bit more steam to get it moving initially, then ease back gently once it's started. Gently move the reverser to the centre position to stop the loco. There are no brakes, but the loco will stop quite quickly. It's probably not a good idea to move directly from forward to reverse or vice versa - go through the centre (stop) position before changing direction.
For water, I use a standard drinking water filter (the tap water here is soft anyway). I've had no problems with this. De-ionised water isn't recommended. The main issue to be aware of is never to run the loco without enough water (if you top up the gas and water to the recommended levels, you should have no problems). You can use the supplied syringe to top up the water to the right level, or buy a squirt bottle with a tube.
You will want to cover the chimney with an old rag when you steam the loco the first time each day - my locos tend to blow condensate up the chimney on the first run each session - that can be very messy! The first time you run the loco each session, run it backwards then forwards until the condensate has cleared from the cylinders. It will be jerky at first, but then run smoothly. You can then run it in service. A single run should last about 15-20 minutes. The first run is usually a lot shorter, since the water is cold. On the second and subsequent runs, you are only topping up the water that has been turned to steam in the previous run. Heating this is faster, of course. Note that the water filler will be hot when you've been running and you may also get some steam escaping when you open the brass filler. Gloves are good
. Running on blocks when you start it is good advice. I use a cheap oven tray to catch any oil/water, with two old blocks of flat wood to put the loco on.
The Accucraft burner can be an issue. When you top up the gas, immediately open the gas valve for a few seconds (5-10) to relieve the pressure in the gas tank. Then oil and water the loco without lighting the flame. The gas should disperse. When you are ready, open the gas jet again and light the burner from the smokebox (I use a long gas lighter rather than matches). Make sure the flame pops back into the boiler (you can see a blue U at the back if you look through the smokebox), then you can turn up the gas to heat up the water. If you get a fire in the front of the loco, immediately turn off the gas jet, blow out the fire, let the gas disperse and then try again. If the burner goes out while running, you can relight it, by opening the smokebox and using the gas lighter. Turn the burner down when the steam is up to pressure (about 60psi is recommended for radio control, but you might get away with lower pressures).
For fuel, I tend to use a butane/propane gas mix (seems fine even in the "heat" of a Scottish summer) - if you look on e.g. eBay, you can buy them in bulk for about a pound a canister, including delivery. The ones with the push fit seem to be a lot cheaper than the screw fit, for some reason, but you need a special brass adaptor to use these, which costs a few pounds.
You don't need to over-oil the loco, but it does need proper steam oil each time you run it. I now generally fill the oiler at the beginning of a session, then top it up a little if I run it several times. This is less messy than filling it completely each run.
If the loco starts squeaking, it needs more oil! I'm using a 460 steam oil, which I got cheaply on eBay. One 500ml bottle has lasted me a couple of years
When you finish the session, open the regulator and reverser completely rather than closing everything - this will use the remaining steam to blow any condensate out of the cylinders before you put the loco away. Don't tighten up the fillers and leave the gas open when you put it away - that will allow for expansion/contraction (obviously make sure the gas tank is empty
).
I recommend a Summerlands Chuffer if you can find one that fits your loco - they make a big difference to the sound of the loco at slow speed and are easy to fit
Hope that helps!! It's a huge amount of fun - welcome to the world of live steam!
) is actually DE-IONISED rather than distilled, and is not as suitable; most of the guys seem to use rainwater, suitably filtered to remove any crud.
