New to battery power and RC

Choppercook

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Reading your subsequent posts and things you are doing it would appear that the loco is a MTS fitted one? If so were you aware that you could have fitted battery DDC to it? This is much easier for such a loco as all you need to do is cut the track wire, insert the DCV Battery Board fit batteries and you are good to go. All functions will work as before. The wire from the track and pickups are now redundant and are better removed. Possibly more expensive than a Deltang installation, but oh so much easier. The Deltang that you have purchased would be then better installed in a non TS/DCC loco if you have one.
I converted LGB to battery with just a RC car TX and RX with a LIPO 11.1v battery and works just fine with sound, lights and smoke
 

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dunnyrail

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I converted LGB to battery with just a RC car TX and RX with a LIPO 11.1v battery and works just fine with sound, lights and smoke
That will work just fine with a Loco that has a generic sound, but if you want to be able to control whistles and other sounds on a loco that has a DCC Chip yuen you need a DCC Rx.
 

Choppercook

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may be but my LGB, the whistle and are are triggered my magnets on the track but the chuf sound runs with the throttle
 

JimmyB

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All my battery conversion so far are 11.1 volt LiPo 3s, deltang Rx/Ta and 3 or 4 sounds controlled by the Tx.
 

Choppercook

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yes you can add a my loco sound card but why when the LGB have it built in ?

 

dunnyrail

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yes you can add a my loco sound card but why when the LGB have it built in ?

Not all LGB have sound built in and it can be cheeper to add a MLS rather than fork out for an LGB DCC box or Sound Board or DCC Sound Chip the only ways these days other than built in that you can retro fit.
 

Choppercook

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OK, I bought a lgb loco of ebay as my first train and it works great L G B 2023p-1, a 2-4-0
 

Greg Elmassian

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I'm following this thread with interest, with the many ways to do this.

If this was a DCC loco already, the way to run battery DCC (like the DCC revolution) would be the cleanest, cut the wires from the track to the decoder, insert the DCC converter module, you are done, everything works as before.

Jon: is DDC your term for the DCC receiver/booster, like the AirWire CONVRTR? Just wanting to be sure of your terms.

Greg
 

Greg Elmassian

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may seem that way, but simpler than your conversion, no changes to lights, speaker, motor connections, etc.

basically battery to this gadget, gadget connects to track pickup wires... could do it faster than it took to type this.

Remember the basis was that the loco was already DCC.

Greg
 

Greg Elmassian

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I still maintain you did more work, my comments are based on the amount of work for the original poster, the thread topic.

Like I said, 4 connections to convert a DCC loco this way, no separate wiring for lights, etc.

Clearly you did many more connections for the motor, lights, sound.... way more.

This is one of the cases where you convert a DCC loco to wireless very easily.

Greg
 

PhilP

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Greg,
I agree the mechanics of the convertion are very simple.
But it may well be the owner of the loco presently runs an analogue track.

If they do not know their way around DCC, and have to work with the machinations of a wireless system on top of that..
The wireless systems also can add an additional layer of complexity to the changing of CV's (if it is possible at all?).

This may all be a step too far, for some?

PhilP
 

dunnyrail

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Greg,
I agree the mechanics of the convertion are very simple.
But it may well be the owner of the loco presently runs an analogue track.

If they do not know their way around DCC, and have to work with the machinations of a wireless system on top of that..
The wireless systems also can add an additional layer of complexity to the changing of CV's (if it is possible at all?).

This may all be a step too far, for some?

PhilP
If one needs to make provision for post fit change of Cv’s, yes it could be an issue. But I have found it to be less so mostly. Some of my Locomotives have a socket that I can connect with a plug using a DPDTCO to switch between Battery and the Plug that emulates Track Power. I can then update the chip. This I found to be easier and kinder on the batteries than keeping all the parafanalia of track power.

Note I have corrected a couple of typos in one of my earlier posts I refered to DDC and DVC when I meant DCC of course.
 

JimmyB

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I still maintain you did more work, my comments are based on the amount of work for the original poster, the thread topic.

Like I said, 4 connections to convert a DCC loco this way, no separate wiring for lights, etc.

Clearly you did many more connections for the motor, lights, sound.... way more.

This is one of the cases where you convert a DCC loco to wireless very easily.

Greg
Surely only true for DCC ready, two of the locos didn't even have 4 pin motor connections, and the whine from the early Stainz sound card was painful.
 

Paul M

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Note I have corrected a couple of typos in one of my earlier posts I refered to DDC and DVC when I meant DCC of course.
Thank heavens for that, DCC confuses me, having more of similar what just about finish me off
 

Greg Elmassian

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Yes, for this particular example, I have been very clear, the Jon's suggestion would be very simple, and the DCC version of the Revolution looks identical to the regular version, actually in some ways it is even easier to control.

Again, the suggestion was for a loco that is already DCC, this is a simple, painless conversion, and you retain all the features of the DCC sound card.

Greg
 

sm_brown

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Hello, everyone!
Thought I might give everyone an update as to my progress.
I finally decided to remove the LGB MTS card from my loco and the hardware required to transfer track power to the loco motor. Next I rewired the loco and tender for radio control (DelTang Tx22 transmitter with Rx65c or Rx66receivers) and battery power (4s Li ion battery from RLD Hobbies). I found that the pads A, B, and C of the receivers actually yield 3.3 v and the negative leads of the headlight LEDs should be soldered to them. The positive leads should be connected to either the L pad or the positive terminal of the high current Rx65 adaptor. All of the other pads P1 through P8 are wired with positive lead to the pad. I used a 47 or 75 ohm resistor in line with the LEDs to reduce the brightness to the desired level. The firebox is wired in with a full wave rectifier to the motor leads so polarity is always appropriate; the trigger lead for the firebox is wired to the negative lead so the LEDs will light when voltage is supplied to the motor). So far, so good. My big mistake was connecting the 65001 sound module to my "franken-loco." I thought that since the 65001 in analog mode was originally connected to track power I could simply connect the same leads to the motor leads from the Rx65 or the Rx66. Bad idea. Train ran for a few seconds, sound blaring. Then the sound stopped and then I stopped the train. I inspected the first the Rx65 which was extremely hot! I removed the 65001 and tried to move the train again. No luck. Nothing worked. I replaced the Rx65 with the Rx66. Really bad idea as I got the same result (extreme overheating and no LEDs on the receiver lighting up). Now the Rx65c has been replaced with an Rx65c adapted for higher current. It works fine without the 65001 (I'm afraid to try it with the sound module installed). Both of the dead Rx65 and Rx66 have been returned to my DelTang vendor for analysis. The original Rx65 is diagnosed "as dead as it can be;" I haven't heard about the Rx66 yet. This is getting expensive!
Does anyone know anything about the voltage requirements for the 65001 sound module?
Oh, for those of you who have made suggestions about the voltage required to run my Mogul - with all of the now obsolete MTS parts the Loco starts up at about 3 v and runs at nearly full speed around 10 volts. Seems much lower voltages are required if the MTS is removed. My 4s battery puts out about 16.5 volts when fully charged. I haven't operated the loco enough to run the battery down yet.
Thanks for all of your suggestions! My saga continues as I explore the world of sound modules.

Scott
San Diego, CA
 

PhilP

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There is so much wrong with the above, it will require some time to sort out an answer..

I have to go out, but will spend some time on this later.

PhilP