There are 2 grades of steam oil 220 used by RH and 460 used by Accucraft, and it important to use the correct grade.
Jimmy, that's yet another rabbit hole - rather like the discussion of distilled versus rain water on the other thread. I could quote you quite a few threads discussing the pros and cons of various steam oils, and whether the Green Velvet ISO320 is better than Roundhouse. But I am not going to. I've been cheerfully using a large can, that I got 10+ years ago, in my 20+ steam locos and not one has so far complained - or shown any signs of wear.There are 2 grades of steam oil 220 used by RH and 460 used by Accucraft
Always best to go with the manufacturer's recommendation. The if you have the thicker grade, it should be fine if used instead of the 220,but I'm not so sure about vice versa.Jimmy, that's yet another rabbit hole - rather like the discussion of distilled versus rain water on the other thread. I could quote you quite a few threads discussing the pros and cons of various steam oils, and whether the Green Velvet ISO320 is better than Roundhouse. But I am not going to. I've been cheerfully using a large can, that I got 10+ years ago, in my 20+ steam locos and not one has so far complained - or shown any signs of wear.
The relevant issue is whether you have to use Regner treacle oil in order to seal the pistons in this loco. I currently have 3 working Regner locos, and not one complains about the steam oil I use. However, all 3 are oscillators: Chaloner, Paul ,Heisler - the latter 2 built by me from kits and both working first time! So they aren't a useful comparison.
Unfortunately none of these seem to be available in the USA. I'll possibly order some from Graham at gardenrailways.co.ok. I don't think it is essential for the current tests.I have some oil that seems thicker than 460, its marked " Superheat Steam Oil" from Pearse Locomotives. I've no idea what the grade is, but it works wonders on my Brunel
Fingers crossed for you.As promised, video from the tests yesterday.
You can observe the valve actions causing the piston actions (when's the last time you saw that in slo-mo.) The only change is that the starboard piston is now wrapped in a layer of teflon, like the port side piston. I did a little fiddling with the valve timing to make it work this way - the stbd valve rod carrier had to be pushed completely forward to make this motion happen.
I guess it is time for a steam test.
Aren't live steam engines fun.You know how it goes: a bit weeping here, a little hiss there ...
I have same problem with my Mamod Brunel, I just close the regulator again until the pressure returns, then everything is fine. I thought it was something to do with piston filling with steam causing itthe steam pressure dropping to below 2 bar as soon as you open the throttle is part of the same problem.
And it is memorial Day and I am back in FL with this PITA loco.so there may be time for another test.
You can delete your own post, use the delete at the bottom right of your post.Oops, pressed wrong button. Administrator, please deleteView attachment 298006
Good point. While there is water coming out of the valves, the bubbling is steam from the cylinder caps.I can't spot cylinder front gaskets