Loco shed realigned

Chris Vernell

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It took me some time and blue air, but I got the loco shed walls straight and braced.

20210821_133810.jpg
First, the before.

20210822_163736.jpg
And the after, with aluminum angle bolted in place. I fastened the angle upside down because it was easier to get the bolts in and tightened.

20210822_163808.jpg
Two bolts at the top (front) end of the wall that had the most pronounced curve because there was a bend in the bend :eek:.
Incidentally, the back wall (clamped to the bench) also has a slight concave bend; I may brace it when I have the buildings indoors for the winter.

And the blue air? The 0 size washers are hard to see and hard to pick up and place even with magnifiers and needle-nose tweezers. At least a third of my supply slipped away into the unknown :fubar:. Had I been able to find them, I would have added more bolts to the bracing; as it is, I ran out.
 
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dunnyrail

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It took me some time and blue air, but I got the loco shed walls straight and braced.

View attachment 289155
First, the before.

View attachment 289156
And the after, with aluminum angle bolted in place. I fastened the angle upside down because it was easier to get the bolts in and tightened.

View attachment 289157
Two bolts at the top (front) end of the wall that had the most pronounced curve because there was a bend in the bend :eek:.
Incidentally, the back wall (clamped to the bench) also has a slight concave bend; I may brace it when I have the buildings indoors for the winter.

And the blue air? The 0 size washers are hard to see and hard to pick up and place even with magnifiers and needle-nose tweezers. At least a third of my supply slipped away into the unknown :fubar:. Had I been able to find them, I would have added more bolts to the bracing; as it is, I ran out.
Another option would have been to tap threads into the ally, this would have saved quite a bit of heartache if you are able to do it and have the tap.
 

Paul M

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Another option would have been to tap threads into the ally, this would have saved quite a bit of heartache if you are able to do it and have the tap.
Or self-tapping screws.
 

dunnyrail

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Or self-tapping screws.
I think they may be on the large size. my guess is he has used 8-10ba screws and these will be near invisible when they tarnish. Self tappers tend to be some orrible silverish colour that does not tarnish or even rust.
 

JimmyB

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I think they may be on the large size. my guess is he has used 8-10ba screws and these will be near invisible when they tarnish. Self tappers tend to be some orrible silverish colour that does not tarnish or even rust.
If you surf the internet there are al sorts out there with all different finishes :)
 

Chris Vernell

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Another option would have been to tap threads into the ally, this would have saved quite a bit of heartache if you are able to do it and have the tap.
I last did any tapping in school shop, long time passing :eek:. The ally angle is fairly thin (1/16th): Not sure if one could get many threads in.
 

dunnyrail

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I last did any tapping in school shop, long time passing :eek:. The ally angle is fairly thin (1/16th): Not sure if one could get many threads in.
Just enough for a fit, I used some in something I built recently and while it would not hold an Azuma’s Lifting Block in place would have been fine for your purposes.
 

Chris Vernell

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my guess is he has used 8-10ba screws and these will be near invisible when they tarnish.
0-80 is somewhere between 9 and 10 BA so far as I can gather. And yes, I hope they will fade into the background.
 

Chris Vernell

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A pic of the loco shed right way up. The ally angle will be out of easy sight from most viewpoints.

20210823_161855.jpg