LGB new to this DCC help?

[walkerart]

I would say open the DIP switches, then insert the decoder..

Just safer, in case you have any power accidentally left on anywhere..

PhilP.

PhilP
Thank you again.
Can you tell me what DIPmeans and why it’s there?
And on newer locos has it now been removed?

 

[PhilP]

I did say:
DuaI
Inline
Package

A compact way of having a number of switches next to each other in one 'lump'.
Two rows of pins, with a switch across each pair of pins across the package. - So a bit like a mechanical/electric binary number.
Each switch can be On or Off (binary '1' or '0').

In this case (amongst other things) two of these switches route power from the pickups into the board already in the loco, and two route power from this board to the motor.

Under DCC, these switches are 'off', so the original board is isolated (not strictly true, but like all electrickery, it's complicated) and the track power goes into the decoder instead.
Majic happens, and then power goes out to the motor. - Switching off the motor connections from the original board, stops 'anything nasty' happening if power is fed back into the original board from the motor output connections.

The above is as 'true' as electrons being blue (or black) and flowing from positive to negative in a circuit.

But it gives you an idea what is going on.

PhilP.

 

[walkerart]

I did say:
DuaI
Inline
Package

A compact way of having a number of switches next to each other in one 'lump'.
Two rows of pins, with a switch across each pair of pins across the package. - So a bit like a mechanical/electric binary number.
Each switch can be On or Off (binary '1' or '0').

In this case (amongst other things) two of these switches route power from the pickups into the board already in the loco, and two route power from this board to the motor.

Under DCC, these switches are 'off', so the original board is isolated (not strictly true, but like all electrickery, it's complicated) and the track power goes into the decoder instead.
Majic happens, and then power goes out to the motor. - Switching off the motor connections from the original board, stops 'anything nasty' happening if power is fed back into the original board from the motor output connections.

The above is as 'true' as electrons being blue (or black) and flowing from positive to negative in a circuit.

But it gives you an idea what is going on.

PhilP.

Hey PhilpP
Thanks this very useful and I will pass it on to Dave who is fitting my decoder…

He has now spoken to James and agreed the Massmoth emotionL is correct.which I’m ordering tomorrow.



So I’m getting James to set the power values for lights and smoke prior to posting it out.
So we don’t trash the decoder.

Obv electronic stuff is witch craft
But touch wood I am nearly there with your help.

In your opinion get the buffer £30 now or wait to see how it runs on my first set up?

Thanks Phil

 

[walkerart]

I did say:
DuaI
Inline
Package

A compact way of having a number of switches next to each other in one 'lump'.
Two rows of pins, with a switch across each pair of pins across the package. - So a bit like a mechanical/electric binary number.
Each switch can be On or Off (binary '1' or '0').

In this case (amongst other things) two of these switches route power from the pickups into the board already in the loco, and two route power from this board to the motor.

Under DCC, these switches are 'off', so the original board is isolated (not strictly true, but like all electrickery, it's complicated) and the track power goes into the decoder instead.
Majic happens, and then power goes out to the motor. - Switching off the motor connections from the original board, stops 'anything nasty' happening if power is fed back into the original board from the motor output connections.

The above is as 'true' as electrons being blue (or black) and flowing from positive to negative in a circuit.

But it gives you an idea what is going on.

PhilP.

Thanks Phil you did indeed say
Duel
Inline
Package

So sounds like it isolates the board ish
To only listen to the decoder.

Voodoo


So the four wires to the motor I think
Are they replacing an original pick up?

Oh. Do you know if this available in the uk and is it merely to connect the light on the tender ?

Thanks nearly there can’t wait.

 

[PhilP]

If your track is 'right' you won't need a buffer.. - You may suffer a little frustration initially?

The best way to keep an outside track running, is to use it. Regularly.

If you fit a buffer, you won't know about minor problems with your track.
But when things do stop, you may well have more than one problem to diagnose and fix.


As this is your first attempt at a railway outside, and you are going DCC,do remember the decoder is a 'computer' if it loses power, it will need to reboot and sort itself out.

Running little trains outside, in the hot/cold, wet/dry, big wild world, is a bl**dy stoopid idea!
But we enjoy it, have fun, and forget the troubles of the world.. If only for an hour or so.

Enjoy!
PhilP.

 

[walkerart]

If your track is 'right' you won't need a buffer.. - You may suffer a little frustration initially?

The best way to keep an outside track running, is to use it. Regularly.

If you fit a buffer, you won't know about minor problems with your track.
But when things do stop, you may well have more than one problem to diagnose and fix.


As this is your first attempt at a railway outside, and you are going DCC,do remember the decoder is a 'computer' if it loses power, it will need to reboot and sort itself out.

Running little trains outside, in the hot/cold, wet/dry, big wild world, is a bl**dy stoopid idea!
But we enjoy it, have fun, and forget the troubles of the world.. If only for an hour or so.

Enjoy!
PhilP.

Mr PhilP
Great advice you are right.

Feel the start and then find a way.

Let the world go and make mistakes in a lovely small world.

I had this running anol and we just loved it plonking about.
So digital is now this step.

I can as you say add buffering later if needed.
Also yes model trains in the wild weather is bonkers…. We will get leaves on the tracks

My whole family were real railways I’ve always been a set designer for tv

But having done a good railway in the loft for my dad (now gone) who left it for years unused and as I cleared it all away and gave it all for free to a club, I thought well why not have my own?

I thought Sod it my train will be in the garden where we all sit in summer and use a bar b …. No need to get in loft.

And the scale is great for modelling buildings.
Of which I’m good at.
But yes I’m crap at the electronic bit.

Your point about computer and rebooting ?
You mean it may need a re set from the controller

I’m just interested to start with having all the lights on all the time. Small dreams but can’t wait.

We had this as an Easter train.
And loved it x

 

[PhilP]

Your point about computer and rebooting ?
You mean it may need a re set from the controller

No, but the light would go out, and the sound would stop (if fitted) and it would take the decoder a second or so to wake back up, and work out what it should be doing..

Sounds like you are hooked!
(We are all mad, you know?)

Just don't tell anyone else!

PhilP.

 

[dunnyrail]

So Danny says leave off
Thanks a Danny
Can you tell me what DIP means and why they exist ?

Thanks
So excited as I now know which decider to get so it’s so close to go DCC

Oh now you are asking! Sorry but blanking plate answer earlier is near to the mark. As for DIP hm…….. Oh Phil as ever has answered.

 

[walkerart]

Mr PhilP
Great advice you are right.

Feel the start and then find a way.

Let the world go and make mistakes in a lovely small world.

I had this running anol and we just loved it plonking about.
So digital is now this step.

I can as you say add buffering later if needed.
Also yes model trains in the wild weather is bonkers…. We will get leaves on the tracks

My whole family were real railways I’ve always been a set designer for tv

But having done a good railway in the loft for my dad (now gone) who left it for years unused and as I cleared it all away and gave it all for free to a club, I thought well why not have my own?

I thought Sod it my train will be in the garden where we all sit in summer and use a bar b …. No need to get in loft.

And the scale is great for modelling buildings.
Of which I’m good at.
But yes I’m crap at the electronic bit.

Your point about computer and rebooting ?
You mean it may need a re set from the controller

I’m just interested to start with having all the lights on all the time. Small dreams but can’t wait.

We had this as an Easter train.
And loved it x

No, but the light would go out, and the sound would stop (if fitted) and it would take the decoder a second or so to wake back up, and work out what it should be doing..

Sounds like you are hooked!
(We are all mad, you know?)

Just don't tell anyone else!

PhilP.

Thanks Phil
Yes I’m hooked and I literally just ordered my first decoder fro

No, but the light would go out, and the sound would stop (if fitted) and it would take the decoder a second or so to wake back up, and work out what it should be doing..

Sounds like you are hooked!
(We are all mad, you know?)

Just don't tell anyone else!

PhilP.

Thanks Phil

I have got hooked….
And thanks to all you crazy cats advice I literally have just ordered ….

Massoth Emotion L (8154001) decoder for £62 from Garten Bahn Supplies (Gartenbahn Supplies - Massoth Products)

So that’s I’m in …. Decided to leave sound for now as my brother pointed out mostly we watch the train from the kitchen.. and this is a bit of a crap loco so will get used to using digital with this and then go more bells whistles ( no pun intended… well actually it is …) on the second loco.

James at Gartenbahn in Essex is such a lovely chap.
Also I ordered 20x track clamps to replace fish plates. I know I need lots more but again thought I would give them a go.

I do agree we are all mad..
But looking at folk out there I’d rather be train mad in my garden

I’m actually excited about this and thanks for the advice so far.
Dave from SMTF railway shop who is fitting my loco also rang James to confirm we are going the right way.
Like I said at the beginning it’s a confusing subject when you are new to it.
May write a little document based on all the info you all sent to get it into a one touch send thing for dopes like me.

I always wanted a railway esp having built my dads in his loft.
But I defo wanted to be outside in the real weather and with a cold beer and the bar b on. Could never be in loft again.

So we shall see eek roll on Monday.

 

[John Russo]

For your next decoder you might consider a Massoth eMOTION LS Sound Decoder. Gartenbahn has it listed at ₤145. It will provide driving, lights, smoke and sound. you can select from many sound ooptions.

Info on it shown here: AllAboutLGB: Massoth eMOTION LS Sound Decoder

 

[John Russo]

Here is a link to good info on DCC.

DCC

Gregg is a member of this forum.

 

[John Russo]

Here is a link that explains your DCC sticker. The 55021 is compatable and plug and play.

AllAboutLGB: Massoth and LGB® Decoder Installation

We install Massoth decoddders in LGB® locomotives

www.allaboutlgb.com

here is the manual for your decoder. https://www.allaboutlgb.com/pdfs/Massoth eMOTION L Decoder User's Manual.pdf

 

[dunnyrail]

Here is a link to good info on DCC.

DCC

Gregg is a member of this forum.

Was.

 

[John Russo]

Progamming CV values using your handheld 55015 is quite tedious.

At some point, you may want to use the Massoth Service Tool. It is free to download and provides a very easy way to see and change all your CV settings.

If you end up getting a Massothsound decoderr, you can change the sound pacakge at will.

Unfortunately, it requires a PC module. The latest is the Massoth 8175201 which will cost you around ₤175 new. Used on Ebay UK: Massoth 8175101 Digital Dimax PC Module For Programming Sound Decoders | eBay

 

[notofthiscenturyTim]

You can add sound to the Massoth eMotion L decoder for £50 by connecting a sound module via the SUSI connector on the decoder and connecting the loco's speaker to the module.

I've used the mXion SX6 module in three locos. Ordered direct from the manufacturer in Germany. It's tiny and fits easily into the boiler.

SX6 16 Bit SUSI Sound, 640 sek. Speicher, 40 Einzelgeräusche Puffer 3W - mXion Modellbahntechnik

SX6 Soundmodul mit Spezialstecker für unsere Lokdecoder der DRIVE-Serie als auch für das SSM zum einfachen Einstecken von Lautsprecher, Taktkabel, Reed, uvm. Die 2 Stecker (SUSI-Kabel und Spezialkabel) können einfach in unsere Lokdecoder eingesteckt werden. Mit 3W Class-D Audioverstärker...

www.mxion.de

 

[Dan]

Gold Sticker on the bottom is a date code in the format of YDDMMY. Day is always 01.
All LGB base stations are 14 speed steps only and need to be reprogrammed to that.
The MTS 3 can go to 28 speed steps if using the Massoth hand held unit. Massoth made the electronics for the LGB of old (pre 2010). If you get the 55020 LENZ decoder it is very limited.
20230/20231/20232 series are great little engines. The sound unit is in the tender. I added power pickup to one axle in the tender and get much better running as the traction tire acts is an insulator on the bottom of the engine when crossing a plastic frog which will insulate the slider/pickup shoe and other wheel.
If you purchase a DCC engine and it does not work properly, you must make sure its decoder is set to 14 speed steps. Also note that Marklin engines look for Marklin protocall first and if you have issues CV50 needs to be set to 2.

 

[Software Tools]

the traction tire acts is an insulator on the bottom of the engine when crossing a plastic frog

Actually it doesn't make much, if any, difference. The electrical contact point on loco wheels is primarily on the part of wheel where the flange and taper join. The sliders bear on the surface of the rail.

 

[craigwrdouglas2]

Hi all, just as recap, OP has an MTS 2 system with one locomotive and has ordered a Massoth L and probably a stay-alive.
MTS2 does need 14 speed steps to be set or the directional lighting will not work on the locomotive
I've checked the decoder defaults and it is set for 14 speed steps by default; also analog on and short addressing.(CV 29) Default = 4

CV50 on the Massoth L Decoder is Front Light dimming, which will be configured by the Massoth dealer as OP has arranged, so don't make changes to that though the value would probably be 7 or 8 for 5v bulbs.

 

[walkerart]

Hi all, just as recap, OP has an MTS 2 system with one locomotive and has ordered a Massoth L and probably a stay-alive.
MTS2 does need 14 speed steps to be set or the directional lighting will not work on the locomotive
I've checked the decoder defaults and it is set for 14 speed steps by default; also analog on and short addressing.(CV 29) Default = 4

CV50 on the Massoth L Decoder is Front Light dimming, which will be configured by the Massoth dealer as OP has arranged, so don't make changes to that though the value would probably be 7 or 8 for 5v bulbs.

Well chaps …. The emotion L has arrived.
Sadly my lovely dog Houston 13:5 years passed away Friday.
And that’s awful Ashe liked to follow the train with a look of disgust….xx

So I’m reading the instructions and if you have any advice re speed setting and so on let me know xxx

 

[PhilP]

Sorry to hear about Houston, they become 'family' very quickly..

From what has been said, you should be good to go, I believe?

PhilP.