LGB new to this DCC help?

[walkerart]

Hi everyone,
My dad got me an LGB starter set and have run it analogue... he’s passed away and love it.
Having built him Conwy castle in oo gauge and making him digital, we loved it.
So I wish to go DCC on my LGB.
My only loco at the moment is 20231.1 .... I think see the photo?

Or is the yellow sticker 001045 the model number..?

So my problem is which decoder fits this as the decoder ready sticker says six pin and when we opened it there are potentially 9x pins .... see the photo number 2.




So I went to the G gauge north meeting today and I’m a bit stuck.
I really need some help to go the right way from the get go.

Please.

Thanks
Chris W

 

[walkerart]

Hi everyone,
My dad got me an LGB starter set and have run it analogue... he’s passed away and love it.
Having built him Conwy castle in oo gauge and making him digital, we loved it.
So I wish to go DCC on my LGB.
My only loco at the moment is 20231.1 .... I think see the photo?

Or is the yellow sticker 001045 the model number..?

So my problem is which decoder fits this as the decoder ready sticker says six pin and when we opened it there are potentially 9x pins .... see the photo number 2.

View attachment 341309
View attachment 341311

So I went to the G gauge north meeting today and I’m a bit stuck.
I really need some help to go the right way from the get go.

Please.

Thanks
Chris W

Hi also,
I managed to get from Ebay the attached MTS LGB system. I have had it tested and it works.
So should I use it ? I know it’s older but for £100 for the lot probably does what I need for now... so if I had two locos and two turnouts will this work?
If I find the right decoder from your advice... can I add sound later and maybe change to a soundtraxxx system using my iPhone to run it?
Would I then need to change the decoder?

So I am stood at the beginning of DCC for myself and I want to step in the right direction.
Any advise would be great.


I also wonder if this plug to my tender can be fixed or do I need a new one?



Thank you.

Great to see all your trains.

Warm regards
Chris W

 

[pugwash]

Hi Chris and welcome to the funny farm, or forum as we like to call it.
I expect the digital whizzes will help you out but for that connecter plug I had one between a loco & tender which broke off just as yours has. The part is readily available and the fitting is easy, the connecter has teeth which go through the insulation of the wire and make contact with the core - no soldering! I think the wires snap off where they enter the plug due to being constantly flexed, they certainly were on my Nicki & Frank S.

 

[craigwrdouglas2]

Hi I assume this is the loco and that you live in the UK.




Hello and welcome - on the 2 points:

1 cable - you may be able to repair this if you pop the connector apart, cut the wire straight and recrimp
otherwise you can get a replacement here:

Verbindungskabel Flachstecker, 5-polig, 2 Stück

Fertig konfektionierte Verbindungskabel (5-polig) mit Flachsteckern und Kabel. Passende Steckdosen (CL60043) sind separat erhältlich. 2 Stück im…

champex-linden.de

2 The direct decoder interface logo doesn't mean 6 pin because there are 6 dots it's not an NEM 651- you just plug in the decoder board into the sockets - it only fits one way, then you can either tie up the wires if there is room or cut them off.

The guide below is for the stainz, but shows the 55021 decoder being plugged in on top of the board and suggestions for the dips if you have them in your loco, though your manual may provide better guidance on those.

WaltonsModels.co.uk

 

[walkerart]

Hi Chris and welcome to the funny farm, or forum as we like to call it.
I expect the digital whizzes will help you out but for that connecter plug I had one between a loco & tender which broke off just as yours has. The part is readily available and the fitting is easy, the connecter has teeth which go through the insulation of the wire and make contact with the core - no soldering! I think the wires snap off where they enter the plug due to being constantly flexed, they certainly were on my Nicki & Frank S.

. So you recommend trying to put the wires back in or just easier to get a new cable?
This is as you say from the loco to the tender and lights the rear lights.
Is there a part number or just do a general search?

Sorry I am just learning.
I had lights added to my carriages so DCC will really help them stay on with the track staying at power.

Glad to be part of the funny farm...

What is a Nicki and Frank?

I’m told to stick to LGB locos as they will all take the tightest radius bends.

Oh happy Easter

 

[walkerart]

Hi I assume this is the loco and that you live in the UK.

HiView attachment 341315


Hello and welcome - on the 2 points:

1 cable - you may be able to repair this if you pop the connector apart, cut the wire straight and recrimp
otherwise you can get a replacement here:

Verbindungskabel Flachstecker, 5-polig, 2 Stück

Fertig konfektionierte Verbindungskabel (5-polig) mit Flachsteckern und Kabel. Passende Steckdosen (CL60043) sind separat erhältlich. 2 Stück im…

champex-linden.de

View attachment 341317


2 The direct decoder interface logo doesn't mean 6 pin because there are 6 dots it's not an NEM 651- you just plug in the decoder board into the sockets - it only fits one way, then you can either tie up the wires if there is room or cut them off.

The guide below is for the stainz, but shows the 55021 decoder being plugged in on top of the board and suggestions for the dips if you have them in your loco, though your manual may provide better guidance on those.

WaltonsModels.co.uk

 

[walkerart]

Hi Craig,

Thanks for getting back so quick.
Yes I’m in Cheshire uk and that’s my loco. I know it’s crap in LGB world but it’s a great start base to make my mistakes.

Brilliant advise on the cable I will try the repair first as shown it today I did think I bet that’s able to open and re plug. My loco is with a chap but I suspect his a little older on these subjects but lovely chap.

Great info on the 55021 plug in but Walton may dels have sadly closed down so no link.
Also I read that this decoder doesn’t support sound which I may like to add later.?

Feel free to call DELETED BY MOD if it makes it easier but I am in the dark as to which way to go as now we have control from iPhones etc
But with the MTS I managed to get for £100 I may as well give it a go so long as the decoder then will transfer in use to another command station.... if that makes sense?

Thanks Chris

 

[craigwrdouglas2]

It's not crap at all - nothing makes me appreciate my Stainz like having to carry an Allegra round the house and up the stairs.

Ok re waltons - I didn't check the link - I just grabbed the response from a similar response I gave a month ago.

See the circuit board part on this guide below:

How I Installed a Decoder in my Stainz loco

Narrow gauge large scale model garden railway. Battery powered, radio controlled locomotives, some Bluetooth. Set in Cheshire UK in 1930s

riksrailway.blogspot.com

The 55021 decoder doesn't provide digital sound, but the analogue sounds still works on my Stainz - I don't know if it's the same with the American 0-4-0, but if the tender is connected with the wire you describe, I assume it has analogue sound in the tender, which should still work. (I'd imagine that's what the dips are for on the stainz)

The 55021 decoder will work with other systems - I'm programming it with the SPROG unit and driving it with a Massoth system.

MTS is still a solid system for operating a train - do you know if it's MTS v 1, 2 or 3?

 

[walkerart]

It's not crap at all - nothing makes me appreciate my Stainz like having to carry an Allegra round the house and up the stairs.

Ok re waltons - I didn't check the link - I just grabbed the response from a similar response I gave a month ago.

See the circuit board part on this guide below:

How I Installed a Decoder in my Stainz loco

Narrow gauge large scale model garden railway. Battery powered, radio controlled locomotives, some Bluetooth. Set in Cheshire UK in 1930s

riksrailway.blogspot.com

The 55021 decoder doesn't provide digital sound, but the analogue sounds still works on my Stainz - I don't know if it's the same with the American 0-4-0, but if the tender is connected with the wire you describe, I assume it has analogue sound in the tender, which should still work. (I'd imagine that's what the dips are for on the stainz)

The 55021 decoder will work with other systems - I'm programming it with the SPROG unit and driving it with a Massoth system.

MTS is still a solid system for operating a train - do you know if it's MTS v 1, 2 or 3?

Hi this image are the bits I bought does it show which mark they are?

I know they are P for parallel , not sure what that means.

So sad absolutely it Walton’s I drove past their road today to go a G gauge meet up and thought I must swing in...... looks like sadly it’s no more and such a great shop.

I feel the loss of such shops now when you can’t just see someone who can advise you and help as you build your railway.


Hi

 

[craigwrdouglas2]

On the carriage lighting check out this video - the broadcaster has fitted a capacitor to help with the stability of the lighting.

 

[walkerart]

It's not crap at all - nothing makes me appreciate my Stainz like having to carry an Allegra round the house and up the stairs.

Ok re waltons - I didn't check the link - I just grabbed the response from a similar response I gave a month ago.

See the circuit board part on this guide below:

How I Installed a Decoder in my Stainz loco

Narrow gauge large scale model garden railway. Battery powered, radio controlled locomotives, some Bluetooth. Set in Cheshire UK in 1930s

riksrailway.blogspot.com

The 55021 decoder doesn't provide digital sound, but the analogue sounds still works on my Stainz - I don't know if it's the same with the American 0-4-0, but if the tender is connected with the wire you describe, I assume it has analogue sound in the tender, which should still work. (I'd imagine that's what the dips are for on the stainz)

The 55021 decoder will work with other systems - I'm programming it with the SPROG unit and driving it with a Massoth system.

MTS is still a solid system for operating a train - do you know if it's MTS v 1, 2 or 3?

What is SPROG .? Sorry

Also I was told about Sound traxx being very good to come neroli from your phone..... is this something that negates the MTS system?
And does it also work with any decoder I eventually get in my little loco ?

 

[craigwrdouglas2]

SPROG 3

All the features of the SPROG II with 2.5 Amp maximum output current.

www.sprog-dcc.co.uk

it's for programming your loco CVs through your pc. - it's compatible with JMRI's Decoder pro application.

Broadly the sound traxx system looks similar to the Hornby hm7000 system. It is an alternative to LGB MTS system, i.e. locomotives that have a SoundTraxx Bluetooth decoder can be controlled by the phone app that SoundTraxx provide - in that case the phone connects to each loco as an independent Bluetooth device.. locomotives that don't have Bluetooth can't be controlled by the app, but could be controlled by the MTS system. Additionally the soundtrax chip should work with your mts system.

 

[craigwrdouglas2]

I had a look at the listing - It looks like a MTS2 system. There are a few quirks with that system, but if you have one loco and it doesn't have lights. then you should be fine for now.

It's a shame when shops disappear, but it often happens when the proprietor retires -- I'm assuming this is the case with Waltons, Look out for new ones opening up though.

 

[walkerart]

SPROG 3

All the features of the SPROG II with 2.5 Amp maximum output current.

www.sprog-dcc.co.uk

it's for programming your loco CVs through your pc. - it's compatible with JMRI's Decoder pro application.

Broadly the sound traxx system looks similar to the Hornby hm7000 system. It is an alternative to LGB MTS system, i.e. locomotives that have a SoundTraxx Bluetooth decoder can be controlled by the phone app that SoundTraxx provide - in that case the phone connects to each loco as an independent Bluetooth device.. locomotives that don't have Bluetooth can't be controlled by the app, but could be controlled by the MTS system. Additionally the soundtrax chip should work with your mts system.

That’s interesting.
So being me... no decoders in ... bought the MTS for only £100... if I go SoundTraxx is that much more than getting the right decoder for my first loco?
With SoundTraxx does that give the sound at the same time,..as the tender on my loco requires the sound to be added.

Sorry dumb questions I’m just wanting to take the right path from the get go.

In terms of my end goal I only need two locos, would love the carriage lights the loco lights and tail red lamps to stayon even when it stops and if possible the sound of the bell as it pulls in to the station cowboy steal....

But I can live without it as I have been told sound units may be £250.....

Also random question....I am aiming at recreating the film 3 :10 to Yuma,..so building the station and Indian teepees.

Found a company called Schlich that make the right scale figures for G in terms of cowboys etc.

But if I needed to feed lights in the station or the Indian camp can I, or should I feed from the track and could I do this from a point controller you know the one that does x4 turnouts / points.?

Just want some LED lights on buildings when the trains going.



Sorry it’s late I’m so interested in this to get it right.

Thanks
Chris

 

[walkerart]

I had a look at the listing - It looks like a MTS2 system. There are a few quirks with that system, but if you have one loco and it doesn't have lights. then you should be fine for now.

It's a shame when shops disappear, but it often happens when the proprietor retires -- I'm assuming this is the case with Waltons, Look out for new ones opening up though.

It’s sad ..... the wonder of getting to meet a dude who knows their stuff. Inter web is not the same.
Although new knowledge really helps as the shop owners tend to be a little behind the curve and wanting to sell old stock to idiots like me.

 

[Software Tools]

And does it also work with any decoder I eventually get in my little loco ?

The MTS2 system is now ancient in DCC tetms and only issues "serial" commands. This is fine for what you have but is going to be severely limiting for contemporary DCC decoders and accessories.

There are numerous DCC supplier but the path of least resistance for LGB users with older locos is to use Massoth or Piko (made by Massoth) DCC kit.

 

[SevenOfDiamonds]

The MTS2 system is now ancient in DCC tetms and only issues "serial" commands

The description says "The 55015 handset and the 55005 base unit both have the letter P on them which I believe to be significant" and this is supported by one of the pictures.

"For the OP, "P" means "parallel" meaning the command signals are sent all at once, rather than being a "series" of pulses.

 

[Software Tools]

For the OP, "P" means "parallel" meaning the command signals are sent all at once, rather than being a "series" of pulses.

That is a bit better, but they will still have all the other MTS2 limitations.

 

[pugwash]

. So you recommend trying to put the wires back in or just easier to get a new cable?
This is as you say from the loco to the tender and lights the rear lights.
Is there a part number or just do a general search?

I replaced mine, the clips on the side of the connector broke when I took it apart, it was easier to just cut the wires back a bit and fit a new one.

What is a Nicki and Frank?

 

[pugwash]

Is there a part number or just do a general search?

Sorry, I missed that bit. The plugs are not specific to garden model railways so a general search should find them. Wait until PhilP wanders along, he might be able to point you towards a source in the UK.