LGB new to this DCC help?

walkerart said:
12Pcs T Tap Wire Connectors, 2 Pin Low Voltage Quick Splice Solderless with no Wire-Stripping Electrical Wire Connectors for Wires Connection 20-22 AWG, Heat Resistant for 12V, 24V DC Automotive
12Pcs T Tap Wire Connectors, 2 Pin Low Voltage Quick Splice Solderless with no Wire-Stripping Electrical Wire Connectors for Wires Connection 20-22 AWG, Heat Resistant for 12V, 24V DC Automotive : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Look at the image for black to black, then yellow to red will be the other side.
If you're using them to just connect 2 to 2, then only come out of one side ? If that makes sense.
Click to expand...
Those do look like a good solution to me. You should be able to run a few feeds out of each of these depending on the wire size.

As for the Gartenbahn clamps, have a look at prices cos if a normal clamp is less than the price of 2 of the power clamps, you can always cut the normal ones in half.
 

Hello mad folk.... hope the trains havent flooded in your gardens. ​

I'm k
looking at the wire listed below at 0.5mm to make my bus on the track, and to spur off using the T connectors below , which don't need solder and are weather proof.
I have x 12 so far... but have'nt bought the wire.
Any suggestions,? I do have an electric chum so was thinking maybe get odd ends for free ( im trying to do this very low budget) although 30m is only £26..... so let me know your thoughts.

These T connections should allow the bus to remain as a ring with spur offs where needed. As in more juice to track sections and off to lights in buildings.
Although someone did say make a seperate bus for lights and points then if something gives up in lights you still have a running track. ?? sounded like good advice.

Got some builder chums so will ask about spare wire..... ( tight sausage)

I was hoping for snow to see how the train got on . x

Thanks
Chris

​

30M 20AWG 2-Core 0.5mm² Extension Cable for 5V/12V/300V Low-Voltage Outdoor Landscape Lighting, Tinned Copper Wires​




 
walkerart said:

Hello mad folk.... hope the trains havent flooded in your gardens. ​

I'm k
looking at the wire listed below at 0.5mm to make my bus on the track, and to spur off using the T connectors below , which don't need solder and are weather proof.
I have x 12 so far... but have'nt bought the wire.
Any suggestions,? I do have an electric chum so was thinking maybe get odd ends for free ( im trying to do this very low budget) although 30m is only £26..... so let me know your thoughts.

These T connections should allow the bus to remain as a ring with spur offs where needed. As in more juice to track sections and off to lights in buildings.
Although someone did say make a seperate bus for lights and points then if something gives up in lights you still have a running track. ?? sounded like good advice.

Got some builder chums so will ask about spare wire..... ( tight sausage)

I was hoping for snow to see how the train got on . x

Thanks
Chris

​

30M 20AWG 2-Core 0.5mm² Extension Cable for 5V/12V/300V Low-Voltage Outdoor Landscape Lighting, Tinned Copper Wires​




Click to expand...
Mains cable ok for the bus, just don't get it mixed up with real mains wire. Multicore smaller stuff to your rail sections will allow you to use more connections per T cutoff. Outside well worth tinning the ends with a soldering iron. That is allowing a small bit of solder to sit on the wire to keep the strands together. That low voltage stuff should be ok for all your wiring if that is available free.
 
Hi … this I found today and fab at cleaning track… it’s a powder.. add either a damp sponge or few drops of water to make a paste … simply brush on …. Leave one min wipe with tissue
I can’t believe how easy it is….
Willing to take a back slap but this looks amazing x ⭐️
 

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So I got 18awg and it’s perfect
Auto wire
On to brass track connection… is the bolt an M3 as I wish to bring in my bus tails from under the track … x
 
Ah sorry. This is the clamp. Just been to a chum and it is a M3 bolt… so got longer ones and washers so it can be braced under the track… will solder the rails to this car lollipop thing.
Do you think it’s ok from below … I’m so not electric minded… but just thought well if it’s tight … it’s right
I’m only doing x5 connections in a loop about 100 ft….
 

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Also I’m two teepees now… so bit of decor to do and on to the station x
 

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Hi everyone,​

So I’m installing the below LGB point motor with the intention of hoping it will work via my LGB MTS and a massoth 4x decoder…. Thing.
Can anyone advise me on wiring them as I can’t find a video online?

Hope you are all well.
Chris

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LGB Electric Turnout Drive - L12010 Switch​

 
See here....

D

Thread 'Lgb switch decoder 55025 cv changes'

Lgb 55025 cv 22 change to 77
Every time I program my decoder it stays at 1,2,3,4 point numbers been told that there’s a factory preset which needs to be changed via cv 22 to 77 to remove the factory preset how do you do this please
 
Hi Gizz
Thanks some interesting points I didn’t know …
If I may ask i have as below a MTS as below …( trying to be cheap at doing this and see how it works)
I am thinking of getting the attached massoth switch decoder….. I have x4 points.
With LGB power turnout motors.
Can this work?

Sorry I’m new to power in this and everything I buy is second hand but trying to see if it can work dcc for me then go further.
Oh my decoder in my loco is new obv and I’m getting there on steam effects.

Happy weekend chum
 

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walkerart said:
Hi Gizz
Thanks some interesting points I didn’t know …
If I may ask i have as below a MTS as below …( trying to be cheap at doing this and see how it works)
I am thinking of getting the attached massoth switch decoder….. I have x4 points.
With LGB power turnout motors.
Can this work?

Sorry I’m new to power in this and everything I buy is second hand but trying to see if it can work dcc for me then go further.
Oh my decoder in my loco is new obv and I’m getting there on steam effects.

Happy weekend chum
Click to expand...
Yes, it'll work. I used the MTS 2 system with LGB point decoders before I upgraded to a Massoth 1200Z....
 
pugwash said:
Hi Chris and welcome to the funny farm, or forum as we like to call it.
I expect the digital whizzes will help you out but for that connecter plug I had one between a loco & tender which broke off just as yours has. The part is readily available and the fitting is easy, the connecter has teeth which go through the insulation of the wire and make contact with the core - no soldering! I think the wires snap off where they enter the plug due to being constantly flexed, they certainly were on my Nicki & Frank S.
Click to expand...
Hi Pugwash,
Thanks for your help so far.
It’s been a year and in this lovely sun I’m attempting my first use of flexi track.
I’m told 600 radius allows all LGB locamotives will be ok with.
Now I’m using it to two sidings so slow work… can I bend it a bit tighter?
Both my locomotives are small …
Or do I just give it a go and see
Hope you are well.
Chris
 
walkerart said:
Hi Pugwash,
Thanks for your help so far.
It’s been a year and in this lovely sun I’m attempting my first use of flexi track.
I’m told 600 radius allows all LGB locamotives will be ok with.
Now I’m using it to two sidings so slow work… can I bend it a bit tighter?
Both my locomotives are small …
Or do I just give it a go and see
Hope you are well.
Chris
Click to expand...
I tried all sorts of hopeful remedies but in the end only replacement worked.
I am well, thank you, and trust you are too.
 
walkerart said:
Hi Pugwash,
Thanks for your help so far.
It’s been a year and in this lovely sun I’m attempting my first use of flexi track.
I’m told 600 radius allows all LGB locamotives will be ok with.
Now I’m using it to two sidings so slow work… can I bend it a bit tighter?
Both my locomotives are small …
Or do I just give it a go and see
Hope you are well.
Chris
Click to expand...
It is possible to make R1 smaller, one of our members has done it but not quite sure why you would need to using LGB Track? As for how, you need to cut some of the plastic web underneath on the inside of the curve then bend as you can with your hands. Try not to get twists and unequal bending. You will also find that the rail may need to be cut a bit as the ends will now not match up.
 
dunnyrail said:
It is possible to make R1 smaller, one of our members has done it but not quite sure why you would need to using LGB Track? As for how, you need to cut some of the plastic web underneath on the inside of the curve then bend as you can with your hands. Try not to get twists and unequal bending. You will also find that the rail may need to be cut a bit as the ends will now not match up.
Click to expand...

I’m an idiot … i realized today i had the wrong points pushed in to look at the curve. It was the long one.
Changed it and lo and behold it went back to plan …. So no need to flexi fix a tighter curve
Onwards and thanks
 
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