Laying track......

[tramcar trev]

Ayln's pic of the single bladed points and setts is the sort of effect I'm hoping to achieve..... So I'm thinking of making my own points and at this stage my idea is to solder the rails ( after bending them) onto pieces of F4 PCB material, everything except the rail faces would be "paved Over" and to insulate each rail from each other just in case the overhead becomes ornamental the copper could be shaved away with the dremel....
I'm also thinking that rather than use clamps a simple clean up with a rubber abrasive in the dremel and solder the fishplates onto the rails ( using lead free solder) to maintain continuity....

 

[Mice 1]

I have used a similar technique of soldering rail to PCB sleepers and it has worked very well.
I would suggest you put the soldering iron on to the rail and then allow the heat to travel to the PCB.
This stops excessive heat destroying the copper to fibreglass bond.
I usually put two cuts across the PCB sleepers to create the two rail insulation. Beware of fine copper whiskers that can cause shorts !
Mike

 

[Wobbleboxer]

There is a thread on the forum started by Mr Spock regarding a crossing he built. Not quite the same arrangement that you're building but the techniques and photos may be useful.

http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=72675&high=spock < Link To http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=72675

 

[Bredebahn]

Use of PCB sleepers with a cut across to insulate each rail is common in the smaller scales, so should not be a problem. But if you're setting the rails in and then soldering the fishplates onto each rail, how are you planning to allow for expansion and contraction? I would leave the plates free to move at the very least.

 

[tramcar trev]

Use of PCB sleepers with a cut across to insulate each rail is common in the smaller scales, so should not be a problem. But if you're setting the rails in and then soldering the fishplates onto each rail, how are you planning to allow for expansion and contraction? I would leave the plates free to move at the very least.

Hadn't considered the expansion problem... How does one overcome that? presumably it is a problem only in long straight sections and when the track goes around a bend the problem is to a big degree nutered....

 

[tramcar trev]

....and a very good thread it is too. Seems the cheapest way to go and a nice job for winter evenings if you build your own straights as well!.

Thats an impressive piece of work... And actually as I have just discovered tram lines when they go around sharp bends are laid over gauge to accomodate the rigid wheel bases so yes laying the track on PCB sleepers is going to be the way to go....

 

[trammayo]

....and a very good thread it is too. Seems the cheapest way to go and a nice job for winter evenings if you build your own straights as well!.

Thats an impressive piece of work... And actually as I have just discovered tram lines when they go around sharp bends are laid over gauge to accomodate the rigid wheel bases so yes laying the track on PCB sleepers is going to be the way to go....

True! Also grooves were wider!

Mick

 

[MR SPOCK]

Halfway through building the crossing ,someone at my local club suggested using Solder paste, instead of resin cored solder, I got some and the ease of use is amazing, it comes in little pots of powdered metal and flux mixed, put it on thinly with a small spreader and apply heat to the railsides, ​

The whole unt is fitted with standard fishplates at either end to allow for movement as there is so much metalwork, its not had any problems with heat or cold as yet, as i use Locolinc for control I wired it as if for DCC so the gapping is simple and no switches at all, If you visit Cliff Barkers website there is a tble ind info about Gauge widening that is easy and informative, sorry I dont know how to add links​

good luck and let us know how you get along​

 

[Bredebahn]

Use of PCB sleepers with a cut across to insulate each rail is common in the smaller scales, so should not be a problem. But if you're setting the rails in and then soldering the fishplates onto each rail, how are you planning to allow for expansion and contraction? I would leave the plates free to move at the very least.

Hadn't considered the expansion problem... How does one overcome that? presumably it is a problem only in long straight sections and when the track goes around a bend the problem is to a big degree nutered....

Depends on the location of your track. Indoors in constant temperature you probably wouldn't have sufficient movement to worry about unless the sun shone on it. Variations in temperature, whether indoors or out, or being exposed to sunlight will make some provision for movement essential. When I was laying standard LGB outdoors I always tried to do it when it was warm and in sunlight - that way you could butt the rail ends right up together - in all other conditions I allowed a gap between the railends of about 1mm at each end of a metre length (nothing scientific about that calculation - it just worked).

If you fix everything down too tight and heat gets to it then the metal parts will "pop" in whatever direction they can - usually up and out if they can't expand lengthwise. Curves are no different. Just allow some lengthwise movement and you should be OK.

 

[Westcott]

​

[align=left]Halfway through building the crossing ,someone at my local club suggested using Solder paste, instead of resin cored solder, I got some and the ease of use is amazing, it comes in little pots of powdered metal and flux mixed, put it on thinly with a small spreader and apply heat to the railsides...[/align]

Do you mean http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50g-Tub-Solde...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3efcfc8854 < Link To this sort of stuff?
[align=left]Since it has the "MR SPOCK "seal of approval, I now have no hesitation in getting some to use on my Winter project - 5 sets of 9 foot raduis points.[/align] [align=left] [/align]

 

[MR SPOCK]

[align=left]

[/align] [align=left]Halfway through building the crossing ,someone at my local club suggested using Solder paste, instead of resin cored solder, I got some and the ease of use is amazing, it comes in little pots of powdered metal and flux mixed, put it on thinly with a small spreader and apply heat to the railsides...[/align]

Do you mean http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50g-Tub-Solde...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3efcfc8854 < Link To this sort of stuff?
[align=left]Since it has the "MR SPOCK "seal of approval, I now have no hesitation in getting some to use on my Winter project - 5 sets of 9 foot raduis points.[/align] [align=left] [/align]

[align=center]Thats exactely the stuff from the same place, I was suprised at the size of the pot but it has lasted ages so its weight not volume, I have also managed to solder really fine stuff with it , even with my poor sight

[/align]

 

[MRail]

I would leave the plates free to move at the very least.


Hadn't considered the expansion problem... How does one overcome that? presumably it is a problem only in long straight sections and when the track goes around a bend the problem is to a big degree nutered....

There's always the old fashioned way of bonding with a loop of copper wire soldered to each rail across the joint.
The normal fishplate will allow the rails to slide.

 

[tramcar trev]

Solder paste is the way to go in all fine work.... Trouble for thos of us living in warm climates is that to keep it for long periods it has to be kept cold.. or it goes off the flux reacts in the heat. price can be a bit shocking though.....

 

[MR SPOCK]

Solder paste is the way to go in all fine work.... Trouble for thos of us living in warm climates is that to keep it for long periods it has to be kept cold.. or it goes off the flux reacts in the heat. price can be a bit shocking though.....

[align=center]Weve seen the adverts about keeping the tinnies cool,but if you put it in the fridge, put it in a plastic container as well, heavy metal and all that.
[/align]

 

[MR SPOCK]

[align=center]I seem to vaguely remember someone saying that the Gateshead tram I serviced was regauged to allow it to run on railtrack, and the grooved rail gauge was not 4' 8 1/2'' so as to allow railway waggons to run with their flanges in the grooves,

I tried to load a link not sure if it works but some really nice pics there about the tramway
[/align]

http://www.davesrailpics.bravehost.com/pyewipe/tram.htm < Link To immingham to Grimsby Trams

 

[oldoak]

....and a very good thread it is too. Seems the cheapest way to go and a nice job for winter evenings if you build your own straights as well!.

Building straights would be evan easier if somebody could convince Cliff Baker to do 'G' Gauge sleepers for his Gauge '3' rail.


It would evan be a lot cheaper than LGB and would also look much more authentic.

 

[trammayo]

[align=center]I seem to vaguely remember someone saying that the Gateshead tram I serviced was regauged to allow it to run on railtrack, and the grooved rail gauge was not 4' 8 1/2'' so as to allow railway waggons to run with their flanges in the grooves,
[/align]

Nice pic Pete - but I think that as regards gauge, they were 4' 81/2" amd more likely the wheels were re-profiled. The only tramways to use 4' 73/4 were those of the Clyde (Glasgow, etc.), Huddersfield and Portsmouth. Blackpool could (on the Tramroad) haul railway coal trucks because the track was standard chaired bull head rail (initially - I think - doubledeckers werem't allowed on the railway profile track!).

Mick

 

[Westcott]

Looking at the photos on Cliff Barker's gauge 3 page, both the stainless and brass track look like flat-bottom rather than bullhead.
Is this an optical illusion?

Has anyone tried using the viscous superglue to hold flat-bottom rail to sleepers?

 

[Markrob Meister]

I am about to build an extension to my railway and cannot decide between decking and tannalised timber. I've been told that tannalised timber can split over a period of time.
Any advice would be most welcome.
This is my first entry with only joining recently.
Thanks Markrob Meister.

 

[MR SPOCK]

[align=center]I seem to vaguely remember someone saying that the Gateshead tram I serviced was regauged to allow it to run on railtrack, and the grooved rail gauge was not 4' 8 1/2'' so as to allow railway waggons to run with their flanges in the grooves,
[/align]

Nice pic Pete - but I think that as regards gauge, they were 4' 81/2" amd more likely the wheels were re-profiled. The only tramways to use 4' 73/4 were those of the Clyde (Glasgow, etc.), Huddersfield and Portsmouth. Blackpool could (on the Tramroad) haul railway coal trucks because the track was standard chaired bull head rail (initially - I think - doubledeckers werem't allowed on the railway profile track!).

Mick

[align=center]That would be it then Mick I think it was the tyres, reprofiled in Grimsby, it was a long time ago and something that only half sunk in at the time.

[/align]