KYR Ground up

[matthew]

If i started again i would seriously consider using a dif timber
maybe exterior quality ply or treated decking planks.

Well i can vouch for decking, it's in it's 4th year i think and still holding up strong, even so there are places where it has warped and shrunk slightly, but nothing major and a repaint every spring is keeping it good

 

[jublybug]

Thanks rob for that i might stear clear of the scaffy boards then , going over to BRATHWEIGHT & QUAGE over the weekend so will have a look at the price of decking boards , going to have to get some to replace some boards on our decking (not been looked after to well:thumbdown

Dont laught to much at the pointing but its done going to clean and paint it weather permittiong satday

Next up are some doodles of roughly what im planning

Jimbo

 

[Rob s]

Dont laught to much at the pointing but its done going to clean and paint it weather permittiong satday

Next up are some doodles of roughly what im planning

Jimbo

Jim - looks good enough to get ready to wallop some paint on.
Rub it over with a house brick, knocks all the snoot off and smooths
it up a bit.
One trick when you point up walls like this is to rub over with the remains
of the old cement bag at the end of each session, works wonders.

Don't forget before you paint a quick rub over with a wire brush
(or jet wash it) to get any loose/flakey bits off, and any weather salts.
It also pays to slap on a thinned down coat of exterior PVA adhesive
before you paint.
Helps it stick and the paint covers better and lasts longer.

Like the doodles, it's half the fun planning, and like yours my layout
is raised
I really like sitting back and watching the stock go past at eye level.

But most of all Have fun

 

[Doug]

If you are re-laying your decking make sure its got a slight slope along the length of the planks, it allows the water sitting in the grooves to run off, instead of sitting in the grooves and making them rot or go slippery.

 

[jublybug]

Rob good idea with the house brick , going to jetwash and wire brush it 2morrow so its ready for pva and paint sat hopefully . doug defo good idea think thats one problem weve had with this decking

Cheers Jim
PS Has anyone got a shelf layout if so how have you mounted it to the walls? im thinking maby shelf brackets and ties from the track bed to the wall above .triangleate it

 

[matthew]

Has anyone got a shelf layout if so how have you mounted it to the walls? im thinking maby shelf brackets and ties from the track bed to the wall above .triangleate it

You could do as you say, but it could potentially spoil your view of the railway and trains, but it would also be placing all the strain on the wall. I think the best solution is to use some big right angled shelf brackets then just some simple upright supports from the ground?

Edit: Also on your design, just moving the point around the corner like this would potentially make it a little smoother and allowing for any longer trains in the future :-

 

[jublybug]

Hadent thought of a ground suport aswell . nice idea with the point position il put it to the misses

Jim

 

[matthew]

2 different ways of doing the corner, the first one is a smoother curve, but you would need the corner board to be a few inches wider, so all space dependant

 

[Dtsteam]

There are a lot of lift out sections in this plan, and they could become a PITA and put you off running trains. Generally they work better if you leave 'em in but remove them for access. I reckon the shed, sink & back gate bits would stay in place until wheelie bin day, but the back door could be a problem. If you laid the track straight onto the decking, then you could leave that bit in place and come and go when the trains were running. You can walk on this track, but its better to make a loose 'half step' out of a bit of spare decking and throw it over the track when not in use.

 

[annieshalt]

hi jim . have a run over to mine sometime . and see how i put mine on the wall sections. its been up for 3 yrs now and never moved . and i have an easy solution for your back gate.

 

[jameshilton]

I was going to suggest laying at 'ground level' on the existing decking to ease the backdoor access - and moving the point around the corner is a good idea, and Matthew shows how much neater it looks using the diverging track of the point as the start of the curve (the left option).

 

[jublybug]

Well its all jetwashed ready for paint weather permitting on the weekend. . i had toyed with the idea of laying the track on the decking but had strayed away from it but after being out there tonight if its on a shelf higher up its going to encroach on the space avalable on the decking, so i may have to lay it on the floor. i did think of steping it up on a single board layed on top of the decling in sections to i could be lifted up if need be also if its lower its more out of view of the houses to the rear as there street is lower than ours (security i thought)

As for the point set up it dose look better in the first pic i think il run with that .
Allen thanks i will come up at some point for a nosey before i shelf it as it where and back gate? hindged section maby? i was fancying makeing a nice wooden truss bridge of some kind that i could unplug and lift out .

Thanks for the help and info people

Jimbo

 

[jublybug]

Dedication is all you need , well friday night i started painting wile the weather held out and ive finished it today walls and the back gate (tv and fridge freezer also gone ,nearly crashed the beetle when the tv slid on the front seat and i couldent change gear )

Looks better dosent it
We also had trains running today my little girl and me built a bridge and a station.

As youl see in the first pic is my other contender for the yard hiedi my german shep / railway security guard

Jimbo:wave:

 

[Rob s]

Looking good Jimbo

Mind judging by the look on Hiedi face
She is either wondering about that (dodgy) decking plank
or checking to see if the paint has dried yet.

P.S. watch the Carpet if you are running in doors, you can get
a black dust of the carbon pickups, if you run a lot.
Don't ask me how i know this

 

[CoggesRailway]

Just been enjoying your thread. I wanted to agree with dsteam about lift out type sections. I had one on the first Cogges Railway and it either put me off chucking a train out or I ended up climbing over it if left in. I can see you probably have to have them but really think about good design to make it possible to easily move them in and out.

By the way that wall looks so much better! What were those angled lines painted on it!?

 

[jublybug]

:wave:

Looking good Jimbo

Mind judging by the look on Hiedi face
She is either wondering about that (dodgy) decking plank
or checking to see if the paint has dried yet.

She was glad to get out i dident fancy explaining to the wife why we has painted paw prints alover and a white dog so she stayed indoors till it was dry

Sound like you been introuble for black dust on the carpet before me thinks

Thanks cogges im working on my design to try make it as smooth removal as poss . the wall dose look better dont it ,it had a trellis on it at some point and it was painted with the wall then removed and left its mark i only found it when i took down the metting stuff that the wife put up some years ago

Jim:wave:

 

[Rhinochugger]

2 different ways of doing the corner, the first one is a smoother curve, but you would need the corner board to be a few inches wider, so all space dependant

Piko curved point??

 

[Gizzy]

2 different ways of doing the corner, the first one is a smoother curve, but you would need the corner board to be a few inches wider, so all space dependant

Piko curved point??

The Piko curved point is quite a large beasty and might be too big for Jim's space?

The Train-line one is smaller and might suit the location better....

 

[jublybug]

Is all g gauge track interchangable? from make to make? im buying lgb at the mo and what scale is lgb g gauge? so i can start with buildings , cars and people.

Got further round the wall pointed up today and maby a bit more painting if the weather holds out some more pics to follow

Jim

 

[ntpntpntp]

LGB track is code 332 (the height of the rail in units of .001 inch) and is effectively interchangeable with track from Aristocraft, USA Trains, Piko and AMS to mention some of the main makers I'm aware of. Bachmann have also recently introduced brass track that should be compatable with the other brands mentioned, but stay away from Bachmann's cheap steel "train set" track with doesn't join well with LGB and won't last outdoors anyway. By "interchangeable" I mean that the rail will join although you have to tweak the joiners a little for the different makes. However, the track geometry of the fixed radius curves and points of the different brands is not always identical so study the catalogues carefully. Also the style and spacing of sleepers can be different - for example Aristo and USA Trains both supply track with "US spacing" or "euro spacing" sleepers, where euro-spacing is similar to LGB (narrow gauge) but US spacing uses more sleepers per foot to represent US standard gauge track.

Another brand of track commonly used here in the UK is Peco, but this is smaller rail (code 250) so requires special converter joiners to join with LGB etc.

What scale is LGB? Well that's a question in itself. It rather depends on what locos and stock you buy - for example LGB models representing narrow gauge trains may be made to a larger scale than LGB models representing standard gauge trains. It's my impression that LGB tend to vary the scale so that overall most stuff looks ok when run together - in terms of height and width. They also vary the scale to allow all their models to run ok on their tightest R1 curves. I think if you assume a scale of around 1:22 or 1:24 you'll be ok for most things LGB.