Ideas and Help

J

Johndoor69

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I’m new to G Scale but not new to model railroading. This year I added a G-Scale train to my Christmas decorations in my yard. A little about my set up, I have 84 feet of track (a single radius followed by 6 sections of straight track then another single radius - forming a large circle or dodecagon if you want to be technical but we will call it a circle). I am running a Bachman 4-6-0 steam locomotive follow by a coal tender and a few freight cars... Now for my issue I am hoping someone has some ideas, the traction wheels on the locomotive have no issue, none of the freight cars have any issue, but the 4 - "guide wheels" on the locomotive keep derailing, (speed has not seemed to affect the ability of the wheels to stay on the track. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I was thinking of possibly adding a heavier spring to the guide wheel assembly, maybe increasing the down pressure would keep the wheels in contact with the track, Thoughts? I am open to suggestions or ideas. Attached are a few photos of my setup when i was getting started.Train #1.jpegTrain #2.jpeg
 
Greg Elmassian (on this forum) has some hints on his site elmassian.com and worth a read too is this one Big hauler tips . There are at least two main variants of the front bogie and most folk recommend adding a little weight or two. From my experience, check also if there is a wire above the bogie, which is interfering with movement of the pivot post. Often as not, it is uneven track joints, especially on a curve, which leave the bogie slightly up in the air as the loco's weight is borne on just the 6 large wheels.
 
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viaEstrecha said:
Greg Elmassian (on this forum) has some hints on his site elmassian.com and worth a read too is this one Big hauler tips . There are at least two main variants of the front bogie and most folk recommend adding a little weight or two. From my experience, check also if there is a wire above the bogie, which is interfering with movement of the pivot post. Often as not, it is uneven track joints, especially on a curve, which leave the bogie slightly up in the air as the loco's weight is borne on just the 6 large wheels.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for your input, I now have some direction to go to see if I can resolve my issue.... If all else fails, it can remain a static display then next Christmas I can change over to a diesel locomotive and add more track!!! Bigger is Better!!! ;-)
John
 
As Martyn said, there are a number of options your model is quite likely to have two track-power wires to the front bogie which have to go through two slots in the washer that sits below the spring on the bogie.

Sometimes, all this paraphanalia can prevent the bogie mount from sliding smoothly through its arc.

The extreme modification for really badly laid track (like mine) is to do away with the track power leads, and to mount the bogie on a short arm with a pivot at the bogie end and a pivot on the loco end (the same way that a lot of 00/H0 locos have their bogies mounted).

However, I also note that your Walschaerts valve gear appears to be wrongly aligned - difficult to tell at that distance, but check it out against one of Greg's photos or a catalogue photo. This might help (the loco chassis is the same - the cab and tender have been modofied).

PICT0004.JPG
 
I think most of the ideas have been mentioned, I too have the Bachmann 10 wheeler, though it now has a new "Annie" chassis. Even this new chassis had the same issues, so first make sure the bogie is free, and the wires are not obstructing movement, and then add weight directly onto the bogie, not a lot of room, and again ensure the weights do not restrict movement.

I found this page, and it is full of good tips Big Haulers Tips though as mentioned Greg Elmassian Greg Elmassian website also contains some good information.
 
The first 2 things to look at are vertical humps and dips (roller coaster)... watch the train and look how the distance from the cow catcher varies from the rails.

More common and harder to see is track "warp" where the left rail is not the same height as the right rail. This warp or twist will lift one wheel and as you go through a turn, that wheel will go off the rails.

put out a blanket, lay on your tummy and watch the wheels contact the rails as it runs slowly by, you will probably see many times the wheels lose contact with the rail head.

A small level put across the rails will show you how far off you are. Very common and harder to spot.

Greg
 
Rhinochugger said:
However, I also note that your Walschaerts valve gear appears to be wrongly aligned - difficult to tell at that distance, but check it out against one of Greg's photos or a catalogue photo. This might help (the loco chassis is the same - the cab and tender have been modofied).
Click to expand...
There does look something wrong there.
Maybe a small amount of lubrication might help. I mean small, too much and dust from the ground will stick to it
 
Rhinochugger said:
As Martyn said, there are a number of options your model is quite likely to have two track-power wires to the front bogie which have to go through two slots in the washer that sits below the spring on the bogie.

Sometimes, all this paraphanalia can prevent the bogie mount from sliding smoothly through its arc.

The extreme modification for really badly laid track (like mine) is to do away with the track power leads, and to mount the bogie on a short arm with a pivot at the bogie end and a pivot on the loco end (the same way that a lot of 00/H0 locos have their bogies mounted).

However, I also note that your Walschaerts valve gear appears to be wrongly aligned - difficult to tell at that distance, but check it out against one of Greg's photos or a catalogue photo. This might help (the loco chassis is the same - the cab and tender have been modofied).

View attachment 307134
Click to expand...

Yup, should look like this -

1670408851041.png


Note that RhinoChugger's loco is the latest version of the ten-wheeler, known as the 'Annie' - for Anniversary. Mine has been going strong since 2000, still on the original drive gear [cross fingers].
 
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