TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok thanks PhilP.
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I am almost giving up. I am having a hard time getting my train to run outside so considering battery power.
- Thread starter TTaannggss
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TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok that looks like it should work. Here is a way to do the reversal. Note 2 options one with a DPDT the other with 2 x SPDT switches. The benefit of using 2 is that you can just throw one and the train will stop.
You should use the controller to slow down then stop the train but in an Emergancy just a throw of one switch if you use the 2 switch option will stop the train. Though some will rightly caution against this all the time as it can damage gears.
You should use the controller to slow down then stop the train but in an Emergancy just a throw of one switch if you use the 2 switch option will stop the train. Though some will rightly caution against this all the time as it can damage gears.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
get a center off dpdt
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
With Phil P comments the DPDT needs to be after the control unit to ensure correct polarity going in to the control unit, however as the control unit remains powered even when off, and on/off switch is required before the control unit.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok I want to leave the battery in the engine. I am not sure if I can charge it while being hooked up to the engine. I really do not want to destroy the engine. If you are confident I will not destroy the engine I will make it hooked up. If not there is a way I can have the battery in the engine and not have the battery connected to the engine while I charge it.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Yes to help protect the gears. I am making the straight tracks slippery for 2 feet to start the engine on the rails. To end the session I just pull the train off the tracks then break the circuit to stop the engine. But this will be harder once I start pulling rolling stock which I am hoping will be next week.
a98087
Registered
Your on the right track with one of those motor controller and switch for reversing
I use the same set up in a few locos and they work reliably and the loco will happily trundle round.
I use a 3s lipo -12v of 1000mah and it easily fits in the tender of the Lgb usa 2-4-0 loco
Dan
I use the same set up in a few locos and they work reliably and the loco will happily trundle round.
I use a 3s lipo -12v of 1000mah and it easily fits in the tender of the Lgb usa 2-4-0 loco
Dan
Homo Habilis
Registered
TTaannggss:
It's not clear to me how things are really connected in your engine but you might consider something like the Battery Conversion Module. On/Off switch from G Scale Graphics to allow charging of the battery while it is still in the engine.
It's not clear to me how things are really connected in your engine but you might consider something like the Battery Conversion Module. On/Off switch from G Scale Graphics to allow charging of the battery while it is still in the engine.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
So Dan. Can I charge the battery while having it still hooked to the engine....or anybody.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok Homo so you think it will cause damage. I think I fixed my soldering iron to solder. Now to look for solder that will melt easy
a98087
Registered
Yes so long as you wire it up correctly,
I use removable battery’s, in some locos as I prefer it as one battery can do lots of different locos, and saves me buying lots of batteries.
Dan
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok but you might of bought it that way....I got a not so pricy f unit ..NYC yet. Ha ha... It came as basic track power. Well I got my sort of soldering done and taped. So here is what it can do ...I can charge the 9 volt with out removing the battery or engine cover. It will not be connected to the engine. I can still use track power ha ha... using the front truck but I have to remove the engine cover and remove the battery. Not that I would want to ha ha.
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TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
I will charge it again overnight. Give it a go tomorrow. Then put the engine cover back on. Onward and forward with much appreciated help from yous eh
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Solder melts easy if the iron is clean and tinned, and will flow on the job again if clean and tinned, otherwise you can spend days not getting anywhere.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ya ..it worked without paste. As well it will work with track power with the battery still in the engine. Just not connected which I can do without removing the cover.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
You CANNOT have track and battery connected at the same time, you MUST isolate track power at the loco before applying battery power. Been there ignored the advice (once) and it doesn't work
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
It would seem you are constantly ignoring good advice, bodging through, getting a (partial) result, and thinking you are sorted, only to find that the next day it has failed. We (though I only speak for myself) seem to be wasting our time providing advice if you ignore it. 
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
I am not using both .... It is one or the other. I doubt I will ever go back to track power anyways. As of now it is all good.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Thinking about it ...I think the front and back trucks can pick up power from the tracks with the battery disconnected. I can disconnect the battery without taking the shell off.