Hi

P

Psychosonicsid

Registered
Just a short note to say hi and introduce my project.

I started collecting all sorts of stuff with the aim of building a US style garden G45 railroad once retired. However this plan took a major diversion the week before last when I inherited a substantial 16mm legacy including some beautiful Roundhouse locos.

Add to this the current lockdown in the UK and considerable additional time on my hands and it looks like I will actually get to start building what is now going to be a SM32 British style garden railway.

So to finance this change I will be selling a large number of 45mm bits through the classifieds and buying new stuff over the next few months to keep me busy.

I have limited experience in garden rail although I used to model in smaller scales so I will be asking lots of daft questions and no doubt will be learning from considerable mistakes.

The current plan is to build a simple loop with siding and passing loop using Peco SM32 track laid on a concrete foundation. My garden slopes and so the datum line will be at the highest ground level and maintain a level around the garden allowing for a few features such as a short viaduct and embankment at the lowest end of the garden with a tunnel and a rockery cutting towards the upper end. I plan to cast these from concrete and incorporate a simple gravel rockery. The size of garden doesn't allow for anything more ambitious (then again neither does my wallet) an so he aim is to get the track down and trains running as soon as possible. Any and all suggestions will be welcome.

Many thanks
Psychosonsid
 
Welcome to the Forum, Sid! (I assume?)

You will find some of the answers here, and many opinions. ;)
Several dodgy characters, and lot's of bad jokes!

There will be a lot to learn about for live steamers, and it will be worth your while joining the 16mm Association. - Open days, in better times..
Normally, I would recommend visiting other's railways for inspiration, and ideas, but that is verbotten at the moment.

You will have to be satisfied with 'virtual' tours, at the moment.

For now, all I would say is make curves to as large a radius as you can. - Tight curves limit what you can run, and make things awkward.
Avoid the dreaded 'reverse-curve'!
Make the track as level as possible, and when you come to lay it, make sure it is level ACROSS the track, especially on curves and through poit-work.

Have fun!
PhilP.
 
Welcome. I think you can regauge some 16mm stuff to run on 45mm track (2'6" prototype). There are some people on this forum doing this. I only mention this if you have a lot of 45mm track already.
 
Hi and welcome, most Roundhouse Locomotives can be Re gauged to run on 32 or 45 track. So if you have enough of one type of track for your line it would make sence to stick with whatever has the most. Certainly track is likely now to be the most expensive buy now with what you have. Also note that 45mm gauge wagons and coaches will take 32mm gauge wheels but not always the other way. Hopefully this info will help you make the best decision for you though there is a greater preponderance of stock for US prototypes in 45 gauge.
 
Welcome to the forum. I echo the above as I run both US outline in 15mm scale and UK/Colonial in 16mm scale, both on LGB's chunky 45mm gauged code 332 track system. The manufacturers of 16mm scaled items have tended for some time to produce their products to be readily adaptable between the 32mm & 45mm track gauges to garner the greatest sales for individual models. Either by wheelsets that can be adjusted on their axles or swap out components like bogies. Yes, some items due to the design of the prototype must be made to be specific to one gauge or the other as manufactured without the means to regauge. Take a good look at the 16mm scale/32mm gauged equipment you have inherited, it might be easier to adapt so you can enjoy all types of stock on your line. Max
 
Welcome to the Forum, Sid! (I assume?)
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You would have thought so wouldn't you :) It's actually Kevin but many years ago I misheard a track from Transvision Vamp and have used the handle ever since. Thank you for your response and advise. I will take all on board.
 
The only daft question is the one you don't ask. We all started out once and between us have made plenty of mistakes; you'll usually find someone has tried something similar to what you are intending and either got it right, or learned a lot in the process. Phil's observations on track, for instance: I laid lumpy, poorly-aligned track in the early days, and my first live steamer still has the scars to prove it.:eek:
 
Many thanks to all suggesting re gauging the locos to run on 45mm track. I did consider this but as the 45mm track is still brand new in the boxes and hasn't been laid yet and our garden is now much smaller that when I envisaged the project I came to conclusion that space wise its going to be tight enough on the 32mm track let alone 45mm. I also have access to the original owners 32mm layout as well, hence selling the 45mm kit and starting afresh on 32mm.
 
Welcome, as you've had plenty of advice already, the only thing I can stress is join the 16mm Association have a look at some the layouts on their website, and don't rush! Also although this forum is primarily for G Scale, we're all garden railway folk who appreciate most things railway related and the jokes are unrelenting!
 
PhilP said:
For now, all I would say is make curves to as large a radius as you can. - Tight curves limit what you can run, and make things awkward.
Avoid the dreaded 'reverse-curve'!
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I am very limited by space but have every intention of keeping the curves as long as possible. By reverse curve do you mean changing from a left hand curve to a right hand curve or visa-versa? If so besides the passing loop which is a natural recurve, I have one 'mainline' recurve in the plan which to compound problems leads straight in to a turnout and need to know how best to try and mitigate the problems. If I add a short straight between the two curves and the turnout will this help?
 
Psychosonicsid said:
I am very limited by space but have every intention of keeping the curves as long as possible. By reverse curve do you mean changing from a left hand curve to a right hand curve or visa-versa? If so besides the passing loop which is a natural recurve, I have one 'mainline' recurve in the plan which to compound problems leads straight in to a turnout and need to know how best to try and mitigate the problems. If I add a short straight between the two curves and the turnout will this help?
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You seem to have a handle on this, already..
A long, gentle, left-right curve, tends to look 'better' than a straight section of track, and is not the problem. As you say it is where you have points and sidings, though you will tend to be running slowly through these.
If you can put a short straight between the two opposing curves, that is a good idea, but it does increase the gap between tracks in sidings.

I would always advocate try to enter tunnels on the straight, and square-on to the tunnel portal. - This gives you the biggest 'hole' to aim for!
Try to use a single (or the longest you can get) length of track in a tunnel. Don't make it more than two arm-lengths long, and make the scenery around so you can get that full arm-length in to retrieve the derailed items.
Possibly make the tunnel 'cut and cover' and if you place a large building on the 'grassy knoll' it runs through, it can conceal another mode of access. I would secure the track at either end of the tunnel, and possibly within as well? - Though this will make removal of the track difficult (impossible?) in the future.
It may be worth casting a concrete roadbed for the track through the tunnel, or using a concrete gravel board, perhaps? This is one area you do not want to subside,
Also consider drainage.. You do not want a cutting, followed by a tunnel.. Especially if you do not have free-draining soil-types.

Other than that, you are good to go, and we expect to see picture of the finished line, in about six weeks! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

But seriously, especially at the present time, take things easy, and be careful of sprains, strains, or a garden tool accident. No trips to A&E, please!


Oh! and lot's and lot's of pictures.. :):nod::nod::nod:
 
Psychosonicsid said:
I came to conclusion that space wise its going to be tight enough on the 32mm track let alone 45mm.
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While I can see from your posts to sell items that you have made your decision there is an assumption you are making, in the above, that is not strictly true. The confines you can fit a layout in is not defined by the track gauge you use in this instance. It is defined by the minimum radii that your locos and stock can negotiate with ease and if those radii are achievable with the track system you are using. The difference a 45mm gauged track based system compared to that built from 32mm is about 13mm on each side of the rectangular area that encloses the layout - Track centre to outside difference between the two gauges is 6.5mm ;) Note - 45mm track systems are available with 2 ft radius curves and points and from some specialist suppliers even smaller. But whether your stock will run happily is such tight confines is another matter :) Max
 
maxi-model said:
While I can see from your posts to sell items that you have made your decision there is an assumption you are making, in the above, that is not strictly true.
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Thanks and yes the assumption was based partly on this, but also the need to be able to use on an existing 32mm layout created by the original owner. The rolling stock and locos I currently have would have worked on a 2' radius 45mm, but I do not have the space for the 8 1/4' radius curves (also being sold.) The flexible SM32 track from Peco will allow me to increase the radius of some curves in a few places making it a little easier / quicker for the locos to negotiate. I would have preferred to have kept the more robust code 332 rails but in this instance if I am to fit any form of working layout in a 16' x 12' space I have then its either 'N' gauge or SM32. :)
 
Psychosonicsid said:
I would have preferred to have kept the more robust code 332 rails
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Please be aware that although it isn't as chunky as 332 code, Peco 32mm stuff is a lot sturdier than you imagine. I very known someone who regularly pushes loaded sack barrows over his with no ill effects
 
Welcome Kev, or is it Sid....
 
Welcome to the madhouse, I think you will fit in perfectly
Mike
 
Welcome aboard Kevin. We can have some fun with your moniker.....:rofl:.....Be prepared and please don't take offense. One of the best things about this forum is everyone's great sense of humor.
 
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