Help with LGB mallett- conversion to DCC

  • Thread starter Roger the Dodger
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R

Roger the Dodger

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3 Jul 2019
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Sorry to be a pest but I've sort of hit a brick wall. Fitted the Massoth XL decoder and Hardwired both motors to it. Programming using my Digitrax system it runs absolutely fine.
So I hardwire the front lights to the LV and + terminals on the decoder. Program a value of 5 in CV 50. Nothing at all when I press F0 with the loco in FWD.
I've increased the value in CV50 as far as10 - makes no difference.
I've checked the bulbs are all OK by detaching from the decoder and trying them with a 5 volt supply - all OK

Am I doing something wrong here?
 
Greg Elmassian

Greg Elmassian

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test with voltmeter first, and see what you get between the function output and the + terminal... when you get that working, then next step. I did not read back so did not check if incandescent or LED.

Greg
 
Ralphmp

Ralphmp

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6 Jan 2010
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Herts
Can you read the value in CV 51. Default for the XL is, as I recall, 128 - this represents Lights on with F0, Directional light switching (i.e. front lights only come on when loco moves forwards)
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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Thanks everybody, you've all been very helpful. Wonderful video Dunnyrail!
Thanks Roger, pity you are so far away but if you are ever in Cambs always welcome to visit. That vid is probably 3 or more Years old now and I keep on thinking about updating it as inevitable things have changed somewhat.
 
R

Roger the Dodger

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Success. Ralph was correct, for some reason the value in CV51 was not showing 128 but in addition the decoder was set for 14 speed steps whereas my Digitrax system was set at 128 speed steps. When edited to 14 everything works as it should. Thanks once again.
 
Ralphmp

Ralphmp

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HTH. Enjoy your loco!
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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25 Oct 2009
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Success. Ralph was correct, for some reason the value in CV51 was not showing 128 but in addition the decoder was set for 14 speed steps whereas my Digitrax system was set at 128 speed steps. When edited to 14 everything works as it should. Thanks once again.
That speed step thing is always one to catch you out. I Remember when Operating on the Ruschbahn my Lights would flash and do all sorts of silly things including not being on. Always somehow the Massoth Handset for the Loco in question had defaulted to anything other than 128 Speed Steps .... grrrr.
 
LGB333

LGB333

Active Member
Roger - I concur with the advice you've gotten for your DCC conversion. 1. Use the Massoth XL; if you also want sound, use an XLS or the XL with a Phoenix Sound decoder (I consider the Phoenix Sound decoders as the "gold standard" for large scale - just my opinion); totally remove the LGB factory circuit boards - powering your new DCC conversion for any purpose makes the old circuit board a potential failure point in the future, which you will then have to remove and rewire anyway; the LGB on/off switch isn't used anymore although I sometimes modify it to be a total power on/off to a locomotive, especially if someone plans to primarily run DCC, but occasionally run in DC mode, the loco can be parked on the layout.

Ironically, I'm in the midst of doing a DCC conversion on a customer's DC/Analog LGB 20851 loco which a previous owner installed a Phoenix Model 97 Sound Decoder (DC or DCC power). The conversion of the three pin to a 4 pin motor blocks was very easy since the connections are already available.......just required isolating the existing pins and soldering a fourth wire on one of the top metal connectors. You can see in the photo that I've removed the original LGB circuit board replaced with an Massoth XL Driving Decoder for two motors. I'm also installing a Massoth DCC Pulsed Smoke Generator. This old 2005 vintage Phoenix Model 97 Sound Decoder is still "chugging" along but only has two sounds that will be activated by my customer's new Piko Central Station/Navigator/Wireless Receiver.......the whistle and bell. I'm also leaving the previously installed reed switches connected to the sound decoder in case the owner wants to continue using magnets on some areas of his garden railway track. Note the screw connectors are only temporary since I have to reopen the rear motor block to install new idler gears that are mostly stripped........replacement parts are on order. I'm going to use the rear lights/engineer cab light cable, just cut off the connector and solder wires to then run to the XL.
127662_fcd32a90702b6db1e6b09cfc2719acf5.png
 
Last edited:
R

Roger the Dodger

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Thank you everyone. First LGB loco converted to DCC.
So this might be a whole different ball game. I have now got to do an LGB 22430 electric loco, with operating pantograph - GULP!
The loco is again, quite old, 1989 stamped on the motor bogies, so two 3 wire gearboxes, li ghost and cab lights which should be ok. The pantograph S are a different story. I don't necessarily want to be able to operate these on a function button, I'd be quite happy if they operated as they do now, apparently, when the direction is changed but the electronics in there looks pretty fearsome.
I've searched the web to see if there is a guide of any type but no luck, so anyone on here done one of these or know someone who has and can give me some advice?
 
D

Dan

Registered
28 Jan 2010
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Eastern MA
LGB runs the 5 volt bulbs at 6 volts. Remember that the bulb does see the full pulse voltage for a short time and I find on my 24 volt system I had to use values of 4 or 5 to get bulbs at a good brightness.
My system does place 24 volts on the track (input to command station is 30 volts). Most 24 volt systems have a 24 volt supply and the station drops approx 2 volts to the track whether AC or DC controlled.
Only exception I know is the LGB hut which ties the input supply to the output at full speed.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Thank you everyone. First LGB loco converted to DCC.
So this might be a whole different ball game. I have now got to do an LGB 22430 electric loco, with operating pantograph - GULP!
The loco is again, quite old, 1989 stamped on the motor bogies, so two 3 wire gearboxes, li ghost and cab lights which should be ok. The pantograph S are a different story. I don't necessarily want to be able to operate these on a function button, I'd be quite happy if they operated as they do now, apparently, when the direction is changed but the electronics in there looks pretty fearsome.
I've searched the web to see if there is a guide of any type but no luck, so anyone on here done one of these or know someone who has and can give me some advice?
I think you will find that a Massoth Chip would be able to do the Pan OK. Probably a Servo is used and Massoth Chips can certainly handle them, just do not ask me how!
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

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25 Oct 2009
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I don't know if it might have just been a typo, Phil, but I think that should have read an XL or XLS decoder? An LS is really only good for running a single motor, you'd be pushing its limits in a 2-motor Mallet.

I would also second (third?) the suggestion of not using the old 55020/55030 lashup - though I'm assuming you either have had them around for ages, or bought them very cheaply second-hand? The 55030 booster was VERY short-lived in LGB use, I've always assumed that was because it never worked very well.... and the 55020 is a very obsolete first-generation decoder with no back EMF facility.
I bought a factory-DCC Mallet from someone in Germany a few years back via eBay, and found it to be barely running - it had the 55020/55030 combo installed, and the 55030 had failed completely resulting in only one power unit running at all (and that one was out of quarter!) - the negotiated refund from the seller - as it had been described as fully working, of course - covered the cost of buying a Massoth XL to replace the very old factory installation; I did have a thread on here with pictures, but it seems to have disappeared for the moment (unless some nice person who's Forum-fu is strong today can find it where I failed?).

Jon.

Not that it particularly worries me, but just wondering why I got a "disagree" reaction (big red X) to this post - didn't think there was anything controversial in it.....? :confused:

Jon.
 
muns

muns

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Not that it particularly worries me, but just wondering why I got a "disagree" reaction (big red X) to this post - didn't think there was anything controversial in it.....? :confused:

Jon.
Jon, Someone has hovered over the Grey thumbs up icon in the lower right of your post and then selected the "Disagree" (Big red cross) icon from the selection.