Help with LGB 5095 light

[Nobbygas]

Hello,

I am a relative novice compared to most of you guys. I have a very small set-up, and I've just purchased a LGB 5095 light with 2 x 1015U's.
However, they came with no wiring, and so my question is how can I find out how to wire this together. I think I may need another controller as mine is the basic kind with no extra connectors and I suspect I will need a wire from the controller to the two 1015U's.......but I don't know.

Can anyone help?

 

[Gizzy]

Try this link Nobby....

http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...801FAA8525693100630623/$FILE/509x0_032003.pdf

 

[Nobbygas]

Thanks very much. That's given me a few clues

 

[Gizzy]

Thanks very much. That's given me a few clues

Champion!

Post some pix of them once they are working please....

 

[Nobbygas]

Thanks for the help so far, however, I have one question more. Do I connect the light unit directly to the power controller (5003) or do I have to go via something like an 51750 box?

 

[stevedenver]

when you say connect the light unit
on signals, more precisely the motor units they sit upon, there are two connectors for lighting wires right by the place where you insert the upright signal-there are two small silver screws WITHOUT coloring dots- you insert wires into these and go to the power source

the lamp will take either AC or DC, and will take UP to 22 volts-

i strongly recommend less that this, and ideally about 12 volts for longevity and heat reasons (too high heat may melt something-as will a lower voltage rated lamp operating too brightly, for example using a 16-18 volt piko lamp running at peak will get hot enough to distort plastic-trust me as i did this on an end buffer marker light )-as well as imho it simply looks better-if your power unit does not have a fixed DC output around 12 volts, then you may use the AC output, which is often 16 volts-the downside is that the light will probably dim each time you throw the signal position

what you are doing is lighting a small LGB type bulb and socket for the bulb within the signal-the bulb socket wire ends simply attach to the above mentioned 2 silver screws

the other two connectors , which i assume you know, are for connection to the switch box AC or in LGB identification "trafo 3 and 4"
these 2 screw conections are marked with an orange and white dot
did you get the isolation tracks and wiring sorted?
finally the original LGB bulbs are rated 22v and are tinted yellow-which imho, tend sto make the green lens look a bit funky, so if you like , find an identically rated clear bulb, or you can remove the tint with a touch of laquer thinner-WELL AWAY from the signal and its plastic which laquer thinner will melt

 

[Nobbygas]

Steve, thanks for that. If I connect the power unit (50030 trafo 3 & 4) to the two connections you mentioned, then the light does indeed work. However, what do I connect the isolater to? I understand only one of the isolaters connects to the base light unit, with another wire connecting the two isolators?

 

[Gizzy]

Nobby, do you have all the components as in diagram 14, page 4 of the link I posted earlier?

Also refer to diagram 13; there is a diode required in the circuit of the 1015U that the signal is clipped onto....

 

[Nobbygas]

No, I do not have a 51750 EPL box, nor do I have the 17100 track contact.

 

[Gizzy]

So do you want to switch the signal manually or via an accessory switch on a point motor?

To answer your question at post #5, you will surely need some sort of switch to change from red to green.

You don't necessarily have to use the LGB 51750 box (nor the track contact which is used for automatic signalling) but instead you could use a double pole toggle switch with the feed in from your power supply as per my attached diagram....

 

[Nobbygas]

I don't really want to switch the lights manually, so I suppose I need an EPL box?

 

[Gizzy]

I don't really want to switch the lights manually, so I suppose I need an EPL box?

If you want the point to switch the signal then you will need an accessory switch attached to the point motor. The LGB number is 12070. Details here....

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=LGB12070

 

[Nobbygas]

I'm getting confused
I have a 5091 drive. Do I need yet another drive to drive this one?

 

[Gizzy]

I'm getting confused
I have a 5091 drive. Do I need yet another drive to drive this one?

PM sent with my 'phone number for help....

 

[Gizzy]

Nobby, can you post a picture of all the parts that you have for your signal please?

Obviously, some parts are missing as you say, so I need to see what you have and see if we can get it to work....

 

[Gizzy]

I'm getting confused
I have a 5091 drive. Do I need yet another drive to drive this one?

I've had a look at the link I sent you, in particular diagram 14.

On your 5003 controller, I guess you have connected wires for the light (Licht in German), as you say you get one light working. I guess you have used 3 & 4 for the supply, the AC output marked ~ for this?

The EPL 51570 box switches the 5091 drive, which has a magnetic assembly inside to change the lights from red to green and vice versa, so you will need this box, or some other toggle switch such as Gaugemaster GM511

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM511&style=main&strType=g&Mcode=Gaugemaster

to change the colour light. The feed from this switch also needs to be connected to 3 & 4 on your 5003 controller.

Attached to the 5091 drive is an accessory switch which connects to your 1015 track sections, which turn off the track power when the light is red. This track power comes from 1 & 2 of the 5003 controller. It does not need to be connected to get the light working, only if you want the track power to be cut off when the light is red.

The 1700/17100 assembly is used to turn the signal to red when a train passes over it and is not actually required to get the signal working. You don't have this part anyway.

I've drawn a new diagram to help you to get your signal working....

 

[Nobbygas]

ok, I'll post the pictures first.

 

[mike]

you could just rewire them , and run them off a suplemntry switch in the back off a point motor
http://www.gscalecentral.net/Lazy-Grange-Bay-3a-new-start-m125111-p60 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece...start-m125111-p60

 

[Nobbygas]

Here is what I have.....

The 5091 motor

2 x 1015U isolators

A 5003 transformer

and the light unit

 

[Gizzy]

I don't really want to switch the lights manually, so I suppose I need an EPL box?

Having looked at the data sheet for the LGB 51750 EPL box, I can see now why you might need one;

http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...85256A17006A1A94/$FILE/51750_51800_072002.pdf

Each switch has a pair of diodes which rectify the AC to DC to operate the EPL drive. (Diagram 1)

The other much cheaper way is to use a Gaugemaster GM511 switch assembly (Currently £3-55) to operate the EPL drive....