Harz Type Battery Railcar with some Playmobil abuse to create a New Battery Operated almost like.
- Thread starter dunnyrail
- Start date
Noting that my last post was a Month ago I though a short update may be required. And Jonathan I have not forgotten you request!.
So 2 weeks Holiday and a week or so before had been busy with other stuff. But I had been doing a little that week and the End Detail on Bogies was being attended to. A little drudgery involved with that as 4 bits of oblong n/s cut at 6mm x approx 7mm for each end of each Bogie Side-frame. Each needs to be Silver Soldered as the other 16 that will make up the 32 in total will be soft soldered at the top with the Axle Suspension detail. Below you can see the 8 that have been done to one side of each Bogie and 8 more ready for the other side. The other 16 need then to be cut.
View attachment 257824
This should be attended to in the next few days, I desperately want to get the Bogies completed as once that is done I can attend to getting the basics up and running.
So 2 weeks Holiday and a week or so before had been busy with other stuff. But I had been doing a little that week and the End Detail on Bogies was being attended to. A little drudgery involved with that as 4 bits of oblong n/s cut at 6mm x approx 7mm for each end of each Bogie Side-frame. Each needs to be Silver Soldered as the other 16 that will make up the 32 in total will be soft soldered at the top with the Axle Suspension detail. Below you can see the 8 that have been done to one side of each Bogie and 8 more ready for the other side. The other 16 need then to be cut.
View attachment 257824
This should be attended to in the next few days, I desperately want to get the Bogies completed as once that is done I can attend to getting the basics up and running.
I added a new post to this thread the other day that looks like it never took, though it looked like it had! Aha it has taken! Never mind.
Thursday, yesterday and Friday some more multiple cutting, Silver Soldering and soft Soldering has been indulged in.
First step was to Silver Solder these small oblongs along the bottom of the Bogie Detai. The Stock Metal is N/S 6mm x 1mm cut into 7mm lengths. Some sections waiting to be Silver Soldered on can be seen in this pic.
Next up was to cut the Tube that the Tyre Caps would sit on. Now perhaps you can see the need for the first stage being Silver Soldered. But first the Tube need to be cut so my Patent Rube Cutting Jig was dragged out, by a stroke of luck a small screw in the Right Hand End made the correct length so here I am just marking the length to be cut. Also can be seen the 16 Top Sections with holes drilled in the trusty Vertical Drill, these will have the Tube sat inside them and be Soft Soldered to the Top of the Cross Pice that can be seen bolted.
Here can be seen a couple of the upright tubes with Air Caps sat on them. This was a job that used gentle heat from the Blowtorch, Solder Wire was cut and gently dropped into the tube which has been Fluxed on the end. The Gentle Heat does the rest. Though a Couple of Silver Soldered Joints failed with too much Heat resulting in lots of faffing with the Big 70w Soldering Iron.
The Sideframes have been removed for the above process and can be seen back in place to show the result of the 16 Fabrications. A Brutal Close Up shows how crude this all is.
The final job in this little excersize is the Central Spring. The Light Bulbs shown above have had their Glass and Internals Safely removed and Soldered in place after a little cleaning up where the Soft Soldered Joints are to be. Note my Cardboard Jig in use to gap all 8 Bulb Screws in place.
Next job will be some kind of Top and Bottom for the Lamps (Springs) and some Axle Ends, then the Bogie Assemblies should be ready to fit Couplings and finally Painting.
Thursday, yesterday and Friday some more multiple cutting, Silver Soldering and soft Soldering has been indulged in.
First step was to Silver Solder these small oblongs along the bottom of the Bogie Detai. The Stock Metal is N/S 6mm x 1mm cut into 7mm lengths. Some sections waiting to be Silver Soldered on can be seen in this pic.
Next up was to cut the Tube that the Tyre Caps would sit on. Now perhaps you can see the need for the first stage being Silver Soldered. But first the Tube need to be cut so my Patent Rube Cutting Jig was dragged out, by a stroke of luck a small screw in the Right Hand End made the correct length so here I am just marking the length to be cut. Also can be seen the 16 Top Sections with holes drilled in the trusty Vertical Drill, these will have the Tube sat inside them and be Soft Soldered to the Top of the Cross Pice that can be seen bolted.
Here can be seen a couple of the upright tubes with Air Caps sat on them. This was a job that used gentle heat from the Blowtorch, Solder Wire was cut and gently dropped into the tube which has been Fluxed on the end. The Gentle Heat does the rest. Though a Couple of Silver Soldered Joints failed with too much Heat resulting in lots of faffing with the Big 70w Soldering Iron.
The Sideframes have been removed for the above process and can be seen back in place to show the result of the 16 Fabrications. A Brutal Close Up shows how crude this all is.
The final job in this little excersize is the Central Spring. The Light Bulbs shown above have had their Glass and Internals Safely removed and Soldered in place after a little cleaning up where the Soft Soldered Joints are to be. Note my Cardboard Jig in use to gap all 8 Bulb Screws in place.
Next job will be some kind of Top and Bottom for the Lamps (Springs) and some Axle Ends, then the Bogie Assemblies should be ready to fit Couplings and finally Painting.
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Ingenious!
I wonder if I could do something similar, but with '22' air-gun pellets?
The smaller ones make good 'insulators' on telegraph poles..
I wonder if I could do something similar, but with '22' air-gun pellets?
The smaller ones make good 'insulators' on telegraph poles..
Further work today on a wet day has seen theTop and Bottom detail on the Springs added, Couplings fitted, the Master for the Axle Bearing mould made and the first one poured into the mould. Just 7 more to cast now if the first one is OK.
Here can be seen the Top and Bottom detail added to the Bulb Threads, the Top is a piece of U channel the bottom a piece of sundry shaped Brass found in the Box of odd metal.
Time for a little test fit to see how it all disappears beneath the Body. The Front below the Cab will be extended well below to hide off the Front of the Bogie as in the selected Prototype.
Here I have added the Metal Work to support the two LGB Couplings. Though the newer of the Railcars never appear to pull anything, on my line they are expected to earn their living so can be a substitute for a Locomotive hauling additional coaches and or wagons. The Coupling Metal was some stock N/S that just happens to fit into the grove on the top of the LGB Coupling, held in place with a 10ba Nut n Bolt. The other end is secured to the End Frame with 2 x 10ba Nuts and Bolts. Here you can also see the Turned Master for the Axle Bearing.
Another Pic of the Coupling setup and Bearing Master.
Finally the Master in the Resin Master Mould Silgum. I was given this stuff as a Birthday Present by a friend and find it to be simplicity in the extreme to make Resin Casting Masters. No 10/90% mixing just 50/50 as is the current Resin that I am using. Simples.
Note that I use Lego to contain the Master Silgum. If I were using a Liquid Variety I would seal up the Lego Blocks inner edges with Copydex as it searches out all the nooks and crannies whilst drying.
Here can be seen the Top and Bottom detail added to the Bulb Threads, the Top is a piece of U channel the bottom a piece of sundry shaped Brass found in the Box of odd metal.
Time for a little test fit to see how it all disappears beneath the Body. The Front below the Cab will be extended well below to hide off the Front of the Bogie as in the selected Prototype.
Here I have added the Metal Work to support the two LGB Couplings. Though the newer of the Railcars never appear to pull anything, on my line they are expected to earn their living so can be a substitute for a Locomotive hauling additional coaches and or wagons. The Coupling Metal was some stock N/S that just happens to fit into the grove on the top of the LGB Coupling, held in place with a 10ba Nut n Bolt. The other end is secured to the End Frame with 2 x 10ba Nuts and Bolts. Here you can also see the Turned Master for the Axle Bearing.
Another Pic of the Coupling setup and Bearing Master.
Finally the Master in the Resin Master Mould Silgum. I was given this stuff as a Birthday Present by a friend and find it to be simplicity in the extreme to make Resin Casting Masters. No 10/90% mixing just 50/50 as is the current Resin that I am using. Simples.
Note that I use Lego to contain the Master Silgum. If I were using a Liquid Variety I would seal up the Lego Blocks inner edges with Copydex as it searches out all the nooks and crannies whilst drying.
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Been busy working on the Axle Boxes having finally cast all 8. 1st Up was to trial fit one. It was drilled for the Bogie Extended Axles in the Lathe - more of that in a minute. But here is the first trial fit and the rest of the Resin ones awaiting clean up.
Drilling these for the Axles had to be done in the Lathe to get a good Centre. 1st stage is to use a Centre Drill, these give a reliable Centre more so than a Flexible Drill would.
Having got the Centre started then it was time for the Drill. 3mm Approx. You can see the Point Marker that I used to ensure not over drilling out the other side, Undesirable.
.
The final stage is to finish off the depth so that the Drill is just starting to Dimple out the undesirable end. I do this by hand with the piece in my hand and the Drill still in the Holder. As the piece is Soft the tactic works just fine.
The Boxes had some grease put in the Hole and glued in place with Hafix, a quick test on Power proved that nothing was gummed up. The grease should ensure that. Finally a couple of pics with all the ends in place. Behind the pic can be seen the other things I have been casting, Barrels and Ally Ingots for loads. The Barrell Master has reached the end of its days after probably 25-30 uses.
This afternoon on a nice day I took the opportunity to spray up the Bogies, so now they re all nice and Black waiting for the arrival of some Plastic Glue so that I can get on with the bodywork.
Drilling these for the Axles had to be done in the Lathe to get a good Centre. 1st stage is to use a Centre Drill, these give a reliable Centre more so than a Flexible Drill would.
Having got the Centre started then it was time for the Drill. 3mm Approx. You can see the Point Marker that I used to ensure not over drilling out the other side, Undesirable.
.
The final stage is to finish off the depth so that the Drill is just starting to Dimple out the undesirable end. I do this by hand with the piece in my hand and the Drill still in the Holder. As the piece is Soft the tactic works just fine.
The Boxes had some grease put in the Hole and glued in place with Hafix, a quick test on Power proved that nothing was gummed up. The grease should ensure that. Finally a couple of pics with all the ends in place. Behind the pic can be seen the other things I have been casting, Barrels and Ally Ingots for loads. The Barrell Master has reached the end of its days after probably 25-30 uses.
This afternoon on a nice day I took the opportunity to spray up the Bogies, so now they re all nice and Black waiting for the arrival of some Plastic Glue so that I can get on with the bodywork.
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Having pretty much got the Chassis to a stage where it is ready to run, yesterday I ordered the remaining bits that I need to complete this into a running machine. The picture below shows the Battery Rough up and wiring lengths required for this to happen.
This Picture is sent to Steve at Fosworks and he does the rest.
Of course this is not all that has been happening with some ‘EMR Plastic Weld’ finally being ordered work can start on the many mods required to the bodywork. 1st Up was to attend to the Gaps between the two former Coach Halves. Looking back you can see how they were joined by Screws but the Gap and the Slope Down to the joint offended. Thus thin Plasticard (20 thou) was used to cover the sides and some more on the top to make a base for ‘P38’ filler which as below can be seen having been roughly put on and waiting for some attention from the Sander.
After some rough cleaning more P38 is used to fill and tidy the gaps.
Then a final finish with some Wet and Dry will give a satisfactory Roof Joint. Though quite likely when I have given the body a Rattle Can Spray with Halfords Matt Grey some more P38 will doubtlessly be required. Nothing like a Coat of Matt Grey to find the blemishes.
Next up is the filling of gaps and general tarting up of the below body skirt area. This is carried out by careful cutting of Plasticard with Gussetts on the inside to strengthen the Joints this has also created what Coach Builders call a ‘Tumblehome’ at the bottom of the Skirt. A good overnight Dry is helpful in this respect to ensure all is secure before the next stage. My Chinese Take-way Plastic Box of varying Plasticard Cutoffs has seen much grovelling around in during this task. An initial start of finishing off can be seen at the front here.
The other end clearly showing the precision cuts required for the filling in of varying gaps - all done 4 times!
The front ends had the Buffer Mounts cut off and a start has been made of even more P38 work with an additional bit of Skirting at the Front. I kind of feel that another bit is required to bring the Lower Gap at the Front closer, but that will have to wait to see how much of a swing the Bogie Couplings will require before I am drawn to make those 4 short pieces. Inside can be seen where rough fill of P38 has been used to strengthen further those skirt fill in pieces. A spray of Matt Black will lose that horribleness.
Thus ends this short update, much of this work has been sanded down but I am waiting for some more P38 to arrive ordered on the Net this morning as no supplier shows up in the nits. Not even Screwfix or BnQ.
This Picture is sent to Steve at Fosworks and he does the rest.
Of course this is not all that has been happening with some ‘EMR Plastic Weld’ finally being ordered work can start on the many mods required to the bodywork. 1st Up was to attend to the Gaps between the two former Coach Halves. Looking back you can see how they were joined by Screws but the Gap and the Slope Down to the joint offended. Thus thin Plasticard (20 thou) was used to cover the sides and some more on the top to make a base for ‘P38’ filler which as below can be seen having been roughly put on and waiting for some attention from the Sander.
After some rough cleaning more P38 is used to fill and tidy the gaps.
Then a final finish with some Wet and Dry will give a satisfactory Roof Joint. Though quite likely when I have given the body a Rattle Can Spray with Halfords Matt Grey some more P38 will doubtlessly be required. Nothing like a Coat of Matt Grey to find the blemishes.
Next up is the filling of gaps and general tarting up of the below body skirt area. This is carried out by careful cutting of Plasticard with Gussetts on the inside to strengthen the Joints this has also created what Coach Builders call a ‘Tumblehome’ at the bottom of the Skirt. A good overnight Dry is helpful in this respect to ensure all is secure before the next stage. My Chinese Take-way Plastic Box of varying Plasticard Cutoffs has seen much grovelling around in during this task. An initial start of finishing off can be seen at the front here.
The other end clearly showing the precision cuts required for the filling in of varying gaps - all done 4 times!
The front ends had the Buffer Mounts cut off and a start has been made of even more P38 work with an additional bit of Skirting at the Front. I kind of feel that another bit is required to bring the Lower Gap at the Front closer, but that will have to wait to see how much of a swing the Bogie Couplings will require before I am drawn to make those 4 short pieces. Inside can be seen where rough fill of P38 has been used to strengthen further those skirt fill in pieces. A spray of Matt Black will lose that horribleness.
Thus ends this short update, much of this work has been sanded down but I am waiting for some more P38 to arrive ordered on the Net this morning as no supplier shows up in the nits. Not even Screwfix or BnQ.
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Great build and really taking shape now,I have followed this one,as for P38,I am assuming that its the car filler so would there not be a car factors near you as you had problems getting some,just a thought.
Yes the P38 is a standard Car Body Filler, and no the Car Factor in the Nits closed some 3-4 Years ago so nothing of that ilk now sadly.Great build and really taking shape now,I have followed this one,as for P38,I am assuming that its the car filler so would there not be a car factors near you as you had problems getting some,just a thought.
I normally go to Cambridge for the Halfords which I can get to by Bus and Walking. The Biggleswade one is I believe at an out of Town Mall some way from the centre of Town but probably not much more of a Walk than Cambridge. I never Drive unless I really need to, preferring Public Transport where possible. Just not wanting to go to Cambridge pr Biggleswade as Barney has been having the trots and do not want to leave him too long hence the Net order.
As JD mentioned, his nearest Halfords is in Cambridge. The only other motor factors in the city, are Wilco's at the bottom of Milton Road, A1 in Newmarket Rd, and Motor Parts Direct on the Coldhams Lane Industrial Estate.
All these are probably on the wrong side of town for JD, especially if he is using public transport from St Nits....
All these are probably on the wrong side of town for JD, especially if he is using public transport from St Nits....
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Those bits either side of the axle boxes look suspiciously like the screw top of a spark plug
That is because they are!Those bits either side of the axle boxes look suspiciously like the screw top of a spark plug
Well he is a bright spark! Brilliant idea, they look just the partThose bits either side of the axle boxes look suspiciously like the screw top of a spark plug
Great stuff! 
I use Lego with liquid silicon and while you get a very fine detailed rendition of the Lego wall it never gets further than the studs if you press them fully home. It also allows me thinner mould walls, to make extricating certain parts easier, as I can support them during moulding with Lego walls. I have a ‘mould table’ on a plate covered in 2x2 flat tiles that I add plain walls to, (not interlocked at the corners), to support the mould.
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