Getting rid of........

Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

Professional Idiot
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If I recall it correctly, I remember something about using brake fluid applied/rubbed off with cotton buds.

Sure it came with a note of caution as too much would remove the paint as well....
 
Cellulose thinners might work, again carefully applied with a cotton bud. You could try leaving it for a few seconds before using the cotton bud. All done at your own risk, of course.
 
kimbrit said:
....old decals.
This rears its head now and then and I suspect there's new gear coming on the market all of the time, so, what's the best for removing LGB decals on loco's?
Cheers,
Kim
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Could you clarify what you mean by the term "decal" and where is it positioned? Is this a waterslide transfer (sealed with laquer ?), a sticky back paper/foil application or a "tampo" printed or masked spray-on decoration, again sealed or otherwise ?

Both the previously mentioned methods are really only applicable to the removal of certain types of paint and are somewhat radical solutions with a high degree of risk to any (un)painted substrates.

Also what is the ultimate objective - just remove the "decal" or effect and entire repaint of the subject ?
Max.
 
Lateral thinking..

Why not apply plates over the top? fixed with silicone..
These can be twisted off if you sell, or change your mind at a later date.
 
kimbrit said:
Done that using the LGB alternate numbers/road names. To be fair they are quite good and some numbers have been on loco's for years and are just starting to curl at the edges. This one though, has to be done 'properly'!
Kim
Click to expand...
If these are tampo printed directly to the body then the Microscale (Microset ?) will be of no use. It has no solvent properties with regards to paint and will have no effect. Likewise if it is a waterslide decal with a laquer coat sealing it to the loco body. I would reccomend using something like the "Squadron" extra fine #30504 wet/dry sanding stick (Hannants have sold these in the past) or a similar wet and dry extra fine abrasive polishing cloth. They are much finer than the usual 1200 grit available in automotive shops, which would be too coarse for this application.

Use the sanding stick, well wetted and sparingly, to remove the numbers alone. If the loco body has a satin finish then the fine abrasive should not create a finish once the numerals are deleted that is too dissimilar to that of the stock loco's to apply the new numbers over. If the body has a natural gloss finish then appy some "T-Cut" to bring the back the shine in the area you have abraded. T-Cut can be used as a "plastic polish" not just to clean up automotive paint, rather than paying a fortune for the Microscale plastic polishing prouct. Use dry print numerals preferably as these will not need a carrier film that will show.

I am assuming the loco's colour is not a paint finish but the base plastic moulding's natural colour, otherwise go very carefully when deleting the numerals and stop at the first sign of the show-through of anthing other than the base colour.

I have used this technique to re-number a rake of Bachmann Spectrum framelesslack "Gramps" tanker cars, without the need for any subsequent laquer coats to match the standard satin finish of the stock tank car product. This is not nessesarily the only way to do this but works for me.

Max.
 
This might work:

http://www.champex-linden.de/cl_produkte.htm

Second item down, Tampondruckentferner. It does take off the printing, but you have to be very careful to remove all of the solvent. If you don't, it just redeposits the dissolved colour wherever it evaporates.
 
If it's something abrasive try brasso, metal polish, or even toothpaste, on a cotton bud. Maybe slower but much more controllable than abrasive papers.
 
Also another thought is to try the thinner/brake fluid on a little spot that isn't really visible on the loco to see if it has any ill effects. Somewhere on the underside for example would be ideal, just to make sure it doesn't damage the paint before you try it properly.
 
To remove paint from plastic I've used Fairy power spray, it's big advantage over things like solvents is it doesn't seem to attack plastic - still worth checking on a hidden spot of course. I guess using small amounts and a cotton bud you could target a specific item like a decal.
 
I don't own any LGB but I have had great success using a fibre tipped erasing pen.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FABER-CASTELL-Glass-Fibre-Eraser-Pen-SINGLE-/370865788360?pt=AU_Scrapbooking&hash=item565952d5c8&_uhb=1

Also very handy as a fine detail sander and for getting metal spotless before soldering, fibres that break off can be irritating and I always use a dust mask, but I use a dust mask when ever I am doing any of this sort of thing
 
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