G scale Bachmann 3 truck shay

Bill Barnwell

Bill Barnwell

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Just purchased and received a new 82498 3 truck Bachmann 1:20 shay and found the draw bar is installed backwards as the end with the 2 holes is mounted under the main chassis of the engine, it is mounted in the farthest hole which means that it should run tight turns ok but was wondering if these is a mistake or done on purpose as maybe they were having problems of people running the wrong hole and having problems. Another thing I noticed is that on the main frame end the draw bar has a coiled spring on it that is on the up side of the bar and pushes the bar down, and being as the water car part attaches to it and the post with the screw in it isn't too long should the spring be on the under side so that it pushes up on the bar instead of down. Any input would be appreciated as I have contacted Bachmann and haven't heard back from them. Also viewed the DVD and was wonder what every one else uses of lubricants or where to by the Bachmann ones ? Billdraw bar shay.JPG
 
Yours is set up just like mine, as I presume it came from the factory about 9-10 years ago (with die-cast trucks). So I do not think any thing is wrong there. I've run mine all these years with a good loads up and down hill forwards an backwards through switches with no problems, tender separation or tendency to derail.

I now run mine with modified Kadee couplers fitted into the link & pin pockets to get over the coupler mismatch when running AMS/Spectrum Fn3 stock with it. As standard mine only coupled at "Big Hauler" height. Max

Summer rail 2013 003.JPG
 
Max, thanks for the input, just thought it funny that in the DVD they went over which hole to us on which radius and then I look and it's installed backwards. Got any more info on the couplers, or pictures, I was wanting to change mine especially after seeing how low they were and was wondering about using truck or body mount, Bill.
 
I think a number of people have tried to figure out how to modify the truck mounted ones, unless Bachmann have released some offset couplers that can fit, as they have with other later products, I'm not sure how it can be done. I'm sure somebody here will have done it, it's a popular loco.

I just used the "centre set" coupler but cut the shank, and flipped it over, at the knuckle and lowered the assembly so the top of the knuckle is in line with the top of the flipped over shank. Flatted the surfaces and then super glued the 2 bits back together. It's never come apart, honest. The shank is sleeved down with a 3/32" I/D wheel spacer off an old Revell slot car. The I/D matched the pin in the pocket and the O/D matches the bore on the coupler shank (what are the odd's on that coming up from the bits bin). Springs fit in behind the coupler shank and are held in by the pocket sides. The only issue with using the buffer beam mounted pockets is that you need to watch the curve and switch radii you are using. I've got nothing below 4' radius.

You are going to love that loco. Get it a Phoenix sound card, they do one with the correct sounds and cuff rate. You know you want to :devil::angel::D Max

#15 takes on water

I hope that gives a clearer picture of the coupler install, identical at the rear
 
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maxi-model said:
I think a number of people have tried to figure out how to modify the truck mounted ones, unless Bachmann have released some offset couplers that can fit, as they have with other later products, I'm not sure how it can be done. I'm sure somebody here will have done it, it's a popular loco.

I just used the standard "centre set" coupler with a 3/32" I/D wheel spacer off an old Revell slot car. The I/D matched the pin and the O/D matches the bore on the coupler shank (what the odd's on that coming up from the bits bin). Springs fit in behind the coupler and are held in by the pocket sides. The only issue with using the buffer beam mounted pockets is that you need to watch the curve and switch radii you are using. I've got nothing below 4' radius.

You are going to love that loco. Get it a Phoenix sound card, they do one with the correct sounds and cuff rate. You know you want to :devil::angel::D Max

#15 takes on water
Click to expand...
Thanks much for your time and pictures, Bill
 
The other way to do it is with a barrier truck - a wagon with hook and loop one and and your choice of coupler at the other.

There's another good reason for doing this - one of the best rules for couplers is body mounted to body mounted, or truck mounted to truck mounted, in this way, the 'throw' of the vehicle is equalised :nod::nod::nod::nod:
 
No problem, from what you said I believe you just used the link pin female receptacle and put a Kadee coupler in it and the sides of it held the springs just like they were the coupler pocket, Bill .
 
Just a word of advice for ALL owners of Bachman's incredible geared-locomotive 1/20.3 models, be they Shays, Climaxi or Heislers. I'm lucky enough to have all of them. Two of them are Shays [a two and a three-truck].

The lubrication/maintenance schedule is VITAL to maintaining the longevity of these incredibly complex models - in particular, either of the Shays, each with literally a couple of hundred moving parts.

BEFORE putting them on the track they need a thorough going-over with the recommended lubricants of the correct grades - and yes, there are different grades for different parts of the drive train.

I bought my two-truck Shay from Caboose hobbies in Denver, way back in 1998, right after they announced a ridiculously-low intro price. Even getting it shipped to UK, it was over a hundred pounds cheaper than buying it here. I also bought three sets of Hob-e-lube lubes and greases - LaBelle will also do the same job, and have used them and only them since then.

The result is that I have not yet suffered the problem that dogged the early-production Shays, with their disintegrating drive-trains, although I DO have a set of metal trucks to eventually replace them. My geared locos get used and they have a strict lube schedule. To prolong the life of these wonderful models, never to be repeated, at least by Bachmann, you really need to do the same.
 
Wise words Tac , and they apply also to the non geared locos; although possibly not with quite the same force. But it is still most necessary.

The other thing of course is to ensure that you don’t end up with hardened grease in gear boxes and the like through over lubricating, that is equally dangerous. Take the Goldilocks approach - it needs to be “just right”.

Wish I’d bought the Shay when they were first released, even with the drive train issues, but with my normal ability to procrastinate I put it off, to my subsequent regret.
 
A few years ago I bought TWO three-truck Shays for $600, at $1.75/£1. They shipped via Uncle Sam's military mail for about forty bucks...me and pal Broos had one each.
 
tac foley said:
A few years ago I bought TWO three-truck Shays for $600, at $1.75/£1. They shipped via Uncle Sam's military mail for about forty bucks...me and pal Broos had one each.
Click to expand...

Ah, the days of $2 to £1. I remember picking mine up NIB on Ebay for £275 9 odd years ago. They seem to be somewhat undervalued for the jewels they are. Possibly the bad rep' the early ones had because of their fragile drivetrains and their seeming complexity ? Love the sight of those cylinders and valve gear going like manic sewing machine. I have to make sure the loco is the right way round when it passes. It spends a lot of time going in reverse on my "roundy round" line.

Nearly put a Phoenix sound card into mine a couple of years ago but could not reconcile the £165 cost of the itty bitty card with the original cost of the loco ! Now I've got used to having one in my K-27 I might just have to revisit that one. Max
 
My pal Broos and I have four Bachmann Shays between us - I also have a 3C live steamer. We often have a Shay-up; now THAT's a sight to see!
 
Can anyone tell me where to purchase a Phoenix sound card for my 3 Truck Shay please? I know GRS used to have them, but no longer, I think there were two different types as well?

A few years back I briefly owned another 3 Truck Shay that had factory fitted sound, I think Tsunami, which I thought was great, but again I cannot find a supplier.

Hope it is OK to resurrect this thread to ask the question.
My Shay has a Massoth XL Decoder at the moment, fitted by P&S Hobbies for the previous owner, who never ran it.

So reading this thread, the first thing I am going to do is some lubrication, as this beastie has sat unused in it’s box for a fair few years now.

Many thanks, Ashley
 
All I ask is that you follow the lube instructions to the letter, particularly as it has sat unused for years. The Hob-E-Lube set of different grades and types contains all you'll ever need. My two-truck shay was bought from Caboose Hobbies in Denver in 1999, and is still going strong - on the original trucks!!!!!!!
 
AshleyH said:
Can anyone tell me where to purchase a Phoenix sound card for my 3 Truck Shay please? I know GRS used to have them, but no longer, I think there were two different types as well?

My Shay has a Massoth XL Decoder at the moment, fitted by P&S Hobbies for the previous owner, who never ran it.
Click to expand...


Mike Darby at Chuffed2Bits is one of Phoenix's listed UK agents (see their site for others) - Electronics - scroll down P8 listed there. Thinking of taking a trip there soon to have my 3 truck fitted with one. Max
 
Thank you for both replies.
I shall be very careful and follow the DVD instructions on lubrication. I am very aware that no replacement spares are available for these locos.
I wasn’t aware of Chuffed 2 Bits, so I will be getting one of those sound cards.
 
AshleyH said:
Thank you for both replies.
I shall be very careful and follow the DVD instructions on lubrication. I am very aware that no replacement spares are available for these locos.
I wasn’t aware of Chuffed 2 Bits, so I will be getting one of those sound cards.
Click to expand...


Be rich.
 
AshleyH said:
Can anyone tell me where to purchase a Phoenix sound card for my 3 Truck Shay please? I know GRS used to have them, but no longer, I think there were two different types as well?
Click to expand...

At any one time, Phoenix offer two G scale sound only (as opposed to sound and motor decoder) cards.
One has a B for battery in its part number the other doesn't. Currently they are the P 8 and PB 17 The supplied rechargeable battery with the PB 17 kit provides power when the track voltage is low with slow speed or stationary analogue operation. With DCC or battery locos the Phoenix battery isn't needed and the non battery version without the battery and charging circuit is cheaper. If needs be the battery version will work on DCC or battery without its own battery.
 
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