Engineer on the footplate to the fireman - "I don't think we are in Colorado anymore Toto !". A fireman called Toto ? Max
P.S. I suspect we still have some interference from the motor that might be setting off that bell. Not as bad as it was by a long chalk and the "Grade Crossing" whistle sequence only sounds on command now. I think I'll have a word with Fosworks to see if we can beef up that "choke". I'll also try pushing up the start/stop voltage on the bell further than I have (and, I think, by default the "Grade Crossing" whistle too) and taking its Omni 2 tx trigger out of, as set up, latched to momentary mode - the whistle is already set to momentary.
Let me see Jon - I just polished the rail heads for the season and there are 10 other unconverted track powered locos and 11 other bits of stock (including a Goose, Madrid tram, JS cars and cabeese) that rely on those rails having a healthy dose of electrons passing through them. Sooo..............let's see how long my back and patience hold out
Mind you, as mentioned earlier/elsewhere, it would not be impractical nor unsightly or uneconomical to consider a boxcar based solution for those Bachmann locos that have track pickups that are switch isolatable. Although I hear that Bachmann's isolation switch may not be that reliable in operation. Hmmm, we shall see Max
Following advise from Steve at Fosworks I have double up on the chokes/supressors that were fitted to cure a problem of interference from the motor affecting the triggering of 2 sound functions on the Sierra card. When running light engine or on the rollers this problem seemed fixed with a single wound choke near the connector between the loco and tender. Out on the road with a load though the problem seemed to rear its head again, though in a more limited form. See the first video above, near the end, and you will hear the bells sound - all by themselves with operation of the programmed latched switch triggers on the Omnis 2 tx.
Well, I switched off the voltage activation of the bells (not needed I only want to trigger them from the tx) and followed Steve's advise - added a 2nd choke, placed it as close to the motor as possible (up tight to the motor inputs on the terminal block in this instance) and double wound the wires around it. I decided to retain the originally fitted device but doubled up on the winding of its wires too. Possibly a bit over the top but what the hell. Take a look at the picture and you will see the added choke hiding down below where the drawbar pivots.