Control and switch options - Novice

Bryan Thatcher

Bryan Thatcher

Registered
I bought an LGB starter set and I'm looking for switches, switch boxes and additional controller options. Unfortunately my main source of available equipment options has been ebay. It's a very disjunct way of learning what's available and how they work together. Referencing back to a retail site has been helpful in some cases. But I'm wondering if there is a recommended resource for learning.

Examples of the kinds of question I have are:
- use cases for momentary vs on/off control boxes?
- how to set up multiple engines - isolating track - multi-engine controllers?

Thanks.
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
Examples of the kinds of question I have are:
- use cases for momentary vs on/off control boxes?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

O.K. I'll try and answer this one.
Momentary switches are typically used to power LGB "EPL" point motors where a short burst of power is needed to change in one direction or the other. I trust you've already discovered that on this side of the pond we often call turnouts "points" as opposed to the American "switch" which may lead to all sorts of confusion in topics such as this! :eek:

On/Off switches tend to be used to select which sections of track are powered when there is more than one isolating section.

With isolating sections it's common practice to have a common unbroken rail on one side and as many isolators on the other side rail as required.

Rather than genuine LGB switch boxes it's often easier and cheaper to use switches from electronic component suppliers. You'd then have other options such as on/on switches to change a colour light signal from red to green or on/off/on to choose one, the other or neither of two track sections.
 
To my mind, the best learning source for setting up LGB trains is their hardcover book, The World Of LGB. In this book, you will find everything you need in order to help make informed purchases, not to mention detailed instructions on the EPL system. The EPL system is their method of wiring a layout.

Otherwise your source for information and assistance would be here on the forums or at train meets. Hobby shops will also be able to guide you if you can find one that is not a toy store also.
 
Bryan, the LGB book is out of print..
A search can (eventually) find a large 'pdf' file of the book.. There are some of the illustrations missing, but the most pertinent information is there.. - Some items mentioned had a short-life (in LGB manufacturing terms) and may not be readily available.
PhilP.
 
Neil Robinson said:
I trust you've already discovered that on this side of the pond we often call turnouts "points" as opposed to the American "switch" which may lead to all sorts of confusion in topics such as this! :eek:
Click to expand...

Just now actually, makes good scene, 'points' it is. Thank you for your reply.
 
Hi Bryan, first of all do you have any experience with small scale model railroading? Many of the principles still apply when you move up to large scale, but wiring and switches need to be able to handle rather more amps of current flow!

One difference (compared to small scales) that catches out some folk is that large scale turnouts generally DO NOT isolate the power from the unselected route, so if you want to stop a train while another runs you need to create a break in a rail and feed power via a switch.
 
ntpntpntp said:
One difference (compared to small scales) that catches out some folk is that large scale turnouts generally DO NOT isolate the power from the unselected route, so if you want to stop a train while another runs you need to create a break in a rail and feed power via a switch.
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That is a big difference. PhilP sent me a PDF of the book, I haven't had time to go through it thoroughly yet. Off the top of my head it seems like there would need to be a convenient way to control multiple points and power with a single switch.
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
That is a big difference. PhilP sent me a PDF of the book, I haven't had time to go through it thoroughly yet. Off the top of my head it seems like there would need to be a convenient way to control multiple points and power with a single switch.
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Or you could consider going DCC, then you only need to worry about power being available at all locations if you ever get sound and wish them to make noises in sidings. As you are at an early stage with little stock it is a worthwhile though to make the jump to DCC. You will never regret it.

Though others on this forum would differ with that point of view I know.
JonD
 
If you go down the DCC route as JonD suggests, you can control multiple points by using the route setting function.

I did this on my last (out and back) layout, with routes 1 to 4 pre programmed on my MTS handset.


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I also used route 9 to set all points to diverge and route 0 to set all points to straight. Useful for a functional check of all points and motors before a running session.

My other primary reason for going DCC was for loco sounds when stationary in stations and sidings....
 
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dunnyrail said:
Though others on this forum would differ with that point of view I know.
JonD
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Nothing wrong with DCC if that's what floats yer boat.

Yes, you can control multiple locos and other accessories
Yes, you can have sound, and sound and lights while stationary
Yes, you can spend zillions on electronics
Yes, you can have fun
Yes, you can have your garden railway the way you want it

And luddites like me can do something else - but actually, it ain't quite like that - it's just that I don't have a type of garden railway that would really benefit from DCC, so auntielog suits me fine; I even do manual points 'cos they're all in one place :mask::mask::mask::mask::mask:
 
This is escalating quickly! Read through most of chapters 8 and 9 a first time. A little background is this is something my son and I are doing. He's 3 and is getting board of the loop. I hear him say 'And then there was trouble' and I cringe. I'm actually switching out the starter set with a Playmobil diesel and 7 gondolas. But I need to put some points and branch lines in soon. Someone directed me to the merg site in an earlier post. I like what DCC offers and I plan to start small in that direction. Thanks.
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
This is escalating quickly! Read through most of chapters 8 and 9 a first time. A little background is this is something my son and I are doing. He's 3 and is getting board of the loop. I hear him say 'And then there was trouble' and I cringe. I'm actually switching out the starter set with a Playmobil diesel and 7 gondolas. But I need to put some points and branch lines in soon. Someone directed me to the merg site in an earlier post. I like what DCC offers and I plan to start small in that direction. Thanks.
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Not sure how you are swopping out the starter set, but the components sold via say ebay are worth separately more than the train set. So you could keep the track and sell on the bits for pretty much what you paid for the train set. Dealers do this sort of thing all the time. Then you have a loop and you may get a little profit for a point or two. The Playmobil will run ok on the lgb track.
JonD
 
I plan to keep the starter train to use when I'm there, just put it up until he's a little older. The Playmobil train should hold up a little better I would think.
 
The Playmobil train was a wise choice. Is it the latest battery operated version with the yellow diesel?
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
No an old school red electric one.
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So those old school ones are pretty well LGB, certainly the older PM Track was made by LGB and sold in PM boxes. There are a few threads on this site about PM kit. Well worth hunting for older PM Locomotives, though some of them can command a pretty high price these days. The RC Railcars can be good value, but you may need to think about updated Radio Control on them if it is faulty.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
So those old school ones are pretty well LGB, certainly the older PM Track was made by LGB and sold in PM boxes. There are a few threads on this site about PM kit. Well worth hunting for older PM Locomotives, though some of them can command a pretty high price these days. The RC Railcars can be good value, but you may need to think about updated Radio Control on them if it is faulty.
JonD
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Yea not cheap. Going to stick with the electric since i'm using all brass track anyway. I just received the gondola cars yesterday, they are solid! And with a better hitch, counterweight magnet and a post in the hook side. I completely blew my train budget and need to wait till things settle down before shopping again.
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
...[Playmobil] with a better hitch, counterweight magnet and a post in the hook side
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Yeah I like that hook design with the finger pad to uncouple. Simple and effective.

I had some Hartland Loco works (HLW) tipper wagon kits where the coupling springs were too stiff for lightweight little wagons, I converted them to the same sort of counterweight operation.
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
Yea not cheap. Going to stick with the electric since i'm using all brass track anyway. I just received the gondola cars yesterday, they are solid! And with a better hitch, counterweight magnet and a post in the hook side. I completely blew my train budget and need to wait till things settle down before shopping again.
Click to expand...

What she doesn't know won't hurt you.....for now anyway.....LOL
 
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