Kadee makes one, the 843... the one pictured in post #7 looks like one for a smaller scale..
Cleaning LGB Lok wheels
- Thread starter FurkaSOCal
- Start date
Yes Greg - I could not find a good picture on the net. Mine actually looks very much like your picture, but its not Kadee
that is exactly what I have been using for track and for the wheels. I agree they work great but wear fast!Dremel has a quck release madrel, and several items that connect to it.
I believe the illustration was of something similar to this:
These are about 3/4" in diameter, and come in several grades of "scotchbrite" material... like the green stuff on your kitchen sponge.
The quick release mandrel fits into the "Butterfly" opening... these are scratch free. but they wear very quickly, so I am back to the small wire brush for my dremel... held at an angle with the wheels turning, do a very good job and no scratches I see...
Again 3/4" in diameter...
Just dug mine out and it IS Kadee. I think it might have had an alternative packaging though, maybe for the UK market.
I just turn the loco on it's back and run power ( alligator clips ) to the skates , then I use this ( cut into strips )
I just have to lightly touch the wheels. ( you could spray goo gone ) if needed.
I just have to lightly touch the wheels. ( you could spray goo gone ) if needed.
HELP!!! I have a beloved STAINZ #2 -sound version (Modern plastic rods #20212 ) that used to run great, but I started to clean the rear wheels that had lots of guck with the LGB cleaning block (abrasive pad). After doing this several times, that wheel gets dirty even faster now and the loco barely has pick up, lots of stops and jerks. I think the abrasive has ruined the wheel, put little nicks in it for good.
Note the front axle has a traction tire on one wheel, so the back wheel is the main track power pick up. I thought of replacing the rear axle, but I have to purchase a pair of Stainz wheelsets instead of just replacing the wheel, and its at least $50 bucks. I've seen 20212 type wheels (without the axles) being sold on ebay, but there is no screw to screw them on? How do you replace the modern Stainz wheels? Can you? Or are you forced to buy the axle/wheel set complete?
Any help appreciated to get this STAINZ back running up to speed for Christmas!!!
(the cheaper $ the better solution)
I with you on your last sentence! The trouble with wheels picking up current when the plating is getting worn away is exceedingly common. Even polishing something is a process of scratching! I have no experience of the modern Stainz and can only make the suggestion that you keep your track's railhead clean and bright at the same time as you clean the wheels. Others, with greater experience of LGB locos will be along soon to enlighten you (and me!) - so good luck.
You can only change the full Axle on a Modern Stainz that is it. Perhaps a Battery Conversion will sort your Stainz, more expensive but will make it a great runner. Ge_rik has done one then changed things all about but basically it is possible. Much more expensive than that replacement Axle though.
Have you cleaned the skates?
Also, check they move up and down freely, on their springs. - If you have ha d pickup issues, they can have got hot, and welded in one position..
Thirdly clean the back-face of the wheels, where they carbon brushes rub (does not have to be spotless)..
They cradle the loco upside-down in your lap.. Using a couple of lengths of wire form you track, check the loco runs be touching the wires on wheels ans skates down each side of the loco..
Start with wheel nearest you on one side, and check all wheels and skate on other.. Then skate to all, then other wheel..
Also, check they move up and down freely, on their springs. - If you have ha d pickup issues, they can have got hot, and welded in one position..
Thirdly clean the back-face of the wheels, where they carbon brushes rub (does not have to be spotless)..
They cradle the loco upside-down in your lap.. Using a couple of lengths of wire form you track, check the loco runs be touching the wires on wheels ans skates down each side of the loco..
Start with wheel nearest you on one side, and check all wheels and skate on other.. Then skate to all, then other wheel..
I'm with Mick, believe you have removed the plating.
Aristo craft stuff has cheap pot metal on drivers on steamers, wear off the plating and it's a porous pot metal left that has pits and get's dirty right away.
For their diesels, they have steel wheels that will rust once you remove the plating... not great either for locos left outside.
We have a supplier that makes nickel silver and stainless drive wheels, too bad someone does not make replacement tires for steamers out of those materials.
Greg
Aristo craft stuff has cheap pot metal on drivers on steamers, wear off the plating and it's a porous pot metal left that has pits and get's dirty right away.
For their diesels, they have steel wheels that will rust once you remove the plating... not great either for locos left outside.
We have a supplier that makes nickel silver and stainless drive wheels, too bad someone does not make replacement tires for steamers out of those materials.
Greg
Well, thats basically what I need to know. I have to get a full axle replacement for the Stainz then. Oh well, it will be worth it. I am a Electrical track purist, no battery conversions for me. The axle purchase is cheaper than converting to battery by far, imho. Plus, I like running the trains on analog too.