Cleaning LGB Lok wheels

stockers

stockers

Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Staff member
GSC Moderator
24 Oct 2009
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Nr. Ashford, Kent. England.
#22
Yes Greg - I could not find a good picture on the net. Mine actually looks very much like your picture, but its not Kadee
 
FurkaSOCal

FurkaSOCal

Registered
26 Dec 2017
35
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San Diego
#24
Dremel has a quck release madrel, and several items that connect to it.

I believe the illustration was of something similar to this:

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These are about 3/4" in diameter, and come in several grades of "scotchbrite" material... like the green stuff on your kitchen sponge.

The quick release mandrel fits into the "Butterfly" opening... these are scratch free. but they wear very quickly, so I am back to the small wire brush for my dremel... held at an angle with the wheels turning, do a very good job and no scratches I see...

Again 3/4" in diameter...

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that is exactly what I have been using for track and for the wheels. I agree they work great but wear fast!
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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North West Norfolk
#25
Yes Greg - I could not find a good picture on the net. Mine actually looks very much like your picture, but its not Kadee
I made one from a wire brush for my 009 stock many years ago ;);)
 
stockers

stockers

Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
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24 Oct 2009
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#26
hmm...wonder who else makes them? I'd be interested...

Greg
Just dug mine out and it IS Kadee. I think it might have had an alternative packaging though, maybe for the UK market.
 
Sean.

Sean.

Hmmmm
5 Oct 2017
480
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Boston & Cocagne NB (not enough)
#27
I just turn the loco on it's back and run power ( alligator clips ) to the skates , then I use this ( cut into strips )
109133_e606313e34f7927d64c229a5e7bb4dd7.jpeg
I just have to lightly touch the wheels. ( you could spray goo gone ) if needed.
 
P

Paul M

Registered
25 Oct 2016
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#28
If you're putting solvents into your wheels, make sure it doesn't get inside the workings, I'm sure it'll cause all sorts of problems
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
22,921
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North West Norfolk
#30
If you're putting solvents into your wheels, make sure it doesn't get inside the workings, I'm sure it'll cause all sorts of problems
I find it helps if I stay solvent :emo::emo::emo::emo:
 
metzbahner

metzbahner

Registered
10 May 2010
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#31
I wouldn't use any powered tool or abrasive to clean wheels. Instead, I use meths (wood alcohol), or Isopropynol, on cotton bud sticks - don't overdo the application of the liquid it might splash elswhere!

I just turn the loco over, cradled in a suitable cardboard box and apply power - either to the pick-up skates or wheels.

I have also found that the multi-surface wipes (for kitchen use) are very good also. For the latter, make sure the bulk of the wipe is in your hand - a finger tip is sufficient to get the wipe on the tyre tread - otherwise, if it's loose and dangling down it might get caught in the motion (don't ask how I know!).
HELP!!! I have a beloved STAINZ #2 -sound version (Modern plastic rods #20212 ) that used to run great, but I started to clean the rear wheels that had lots of guck with the LGB cleaning block (abrasive pad). After doing this several times, that wheel gets dirty even faster now and the loco barely has pick up, lots of stops and jerks. I think the abrasive has ruined the wheel, put little nicks in it for good.

Note the front axle has a traction tire on one wheel, so the back wheel is the main track power pick up. I thought of replacing the rear axle, but I have to purchase a pair of Stainz wheelsets instead of just replacing the wheel, and its at least $50 bucks. I've seen 20212 type wheels (without the axles) being sold on ebay, but there is no screw to screw them on? How do you replace the modern Stainz wheels? Can you? Or are you forced to buy the axle/wheel set complete?

Any help appreciated to get this STAINZ back running up to speed for Christmas!!!

(the cheaper $ the better solution)
 
trammayo

trammayo

Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
24 Oct 2009
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Co. Mayo
#32
HELP!!! I have a beloved STAINZ #2 -sound version (Modern plastic rods #20212 ) that used to run great, but I started to clean the rear wheels that had lots of guck with the LGB cleaning block (abrasive pad). After doing this several times, that wheel gets dirty even faster now and the loco barely has pick up, lots of stops and jerks. I think the abrasive has ruined the wheel, put little nicks in it for good.

Note the front axle has a traction tire on one wheel, so the back wheel is the main track power pick up. I thought of replacing the rear axle, but I have to purchase a pair of Stainz wheelsets instead of just replacing the wheel, and its at least $50 bucks. I've seen 20212 type wheels (without the axles) being sold on ebay, but there is no screw to screw them on? How do you replace the modern Stainz wheels? Can you? Or are you forced to buy the axle/wheel set complete?

Any help appreciated to get this STAINZ back running up to speed for Christmas!!!

(the cheaper $ the better solution)
I with you on your last sentence! The trouble with wheels picking up current when the plating is getting worn away is exceedingly common. Even polishing something is a process of scratching! I have no experience of the modern Stainz and can only make the suggestion that you keep your track's railhead clean and bright at the same time as you clean the wheels. Others, with greater experience of LGB locos will be along soon to enlighten you (and me!) - so good luck.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
13,499
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
#33
You can only change the full Axle on a Modern Stainz that is it. Perhaps a Battery Conversion will sort your Stainz, more expensive but will make it a great runner. Ge_rik has done one then changed things all about but basically it is possible. Much more expensive than that replacement Axle though.
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
21,237
2,454
Tamworth, Staffs.
#34
Have you cleaned the skates?
Also, check they move up and down freely, on their springs. - If you have ha d pickup issues, they can have got hot, and welded in one position..
Thirdly clean the back-face of the wheels, where they carbon brushes rub (does not have to be spotless)..

They cradle the loco upside-down in your lap.. Using a couple of lengths of wire form you track, check the loco runs be touching the wires on wheels ans skates down each side of the loco..
Start with wheel nearest you on one side, and check all wheels and skate on other.. Then skate to all, then other wheel..
 
Greg Elmassian

Greg Elmassian

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8 Mar 2014
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San Diego
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#35
I'm with Mick, believe you have removed the plating.

Aristo craft stuff has cheap pot metal on drivers on steamers, wear off the plating and it's a porous pot metal left that has pits and get's dirty right away.

For their diesels, they have steel wheels that will rust once you remove the plating... not great either for locos left outside.

We have a supplier that makes nickel silver and stainless drive wheels, too bad someone does not make replacement tires for steamers out of those materials.

Greg
 
metzbahner

metzbahner

Registered
10 May 2010
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4
www.etsy.com
#36
You can only change the full Axle on a Modern Stainz that is it. Perhaps a Battery Conversion will sort your Stainz, more expensive but will make it a great runner. Ge_rik has done one then changed things all about but basically it is possible. Much more expensive than that replacement Axle though.

Well, thats basically what I need to know. I have to get a full axle replacement for the Stainz then. Oh well, it will be worth it. I am a Electrical track purist, no battery conversions for me. The axle purchase is cheaper than converting to battery by far, imho. Plus, I like running the trains on analog too.