Cleaning In Situ Track

JimmyB

JimmyB

Now retired - trains and fishing
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This question is aimed that those of you with outside layouts, who power their trains and locos via the track. I currently have the LGB track "rubber", and as yet cannot afford the track cleaning loco, so the questions are:
  1. How often during the running season do you clean your track?
  2. Ignoring the track cleaning loco, what and how do you clean your track?
Many thanks for the anticipated answers, and currently I and trying to self guess what the thread drift will be by page two (assuming we get to page two) ;)
 
I clean mine with the LGB rubber when the trains tell me too, when they are not running smoothly and stopping where they shouldn't :) I have found it's an easier and quicker job if done regular rather than leaving it until nothing will run. Like you I am in theory saving for the track cleaning Loco. Part of my layout runs under a tree which I have found is a right pain this year leaking sap all over the track, so that bit needs a quick clean just about every running session.
 
I too use the LGB Mk 1 cleaner - plus an Aristo caboose track cleaner.

If I run track power regularly, say every week, then a massive hands and knees job with the LGB Mk 1 will suffice, followed by the track cleaning caboose at the beginning of each subsequent session.

Given that I run battery power sometimes and a single steamie, and if the running is more infrequent, then the Mk 1 track cleaner would have to pre-empt any track power running session.

You may find that, unless you are DCC and sending the full 24 volts down the track all the time, early evening brings about a stutter, so a track cleaning car of some sort is often useful at such times - it isn't visible dew that causes it, but one or two DC users (like me) do find it happens occasionally; someone intelligent could probably explain why :mask::mask:
 
I would submit that the how often question is really not helpful because it can be different for everyone, even people living in the same area. Local environment, plants, type of ballast, if you have watering systems getting to the rails, etc.

To clean track inexpensively, I'd like to present a web page that makes a distinction between "cleaning" (getting junk off the rail surface), and removing oxidation (oxidation is not dirt!)... the 2 processes are quite different and often handled best by 2 different "tools"

https://elmassian.com/index.php?opt...=228:track-cleaning&catid=20:track&Itemid=262

Ore%20car%20Rail%20Broom.JPG


bridgemasters_cleaner.jpg
 
I did have an LGB track cleaning loco but hardly ever used it so it got sold on. I find the MK1 track cleaning pad actually does a better job but just takes a bit more effort. Use it as part of your keep fit programme . it's cheaper than the gym and more interesting.:)
 
I find that I always need to clean the track after rain as the dampnes scirtainly tarnishes the track some also lifts crud onto the rails but I have mentioned this before. Living where you do would be different to me as you are near the coast and atmospherics will be quite different for you perhaps worse? Not sure perhaps another close to the sea dweller could comment. But some manage weeks without and more running will help as the skates do help some.

This is a pretty useful link on the subject, the Aristo Claeaning Caboose is quite a good beast, I have one amongst my cleaning armory.

https://familygardentrains.com/primer/maintenance/track_cleaning/track_cleaning.htm

Lgb used to do a sort of track cleaning mini blocks that fitted onto a coach or wagon, being in the consist at all times will help. I had one but could not get on with it as it caused too much drag derailing the wago on occasion.
 
I have about 35 metres of line. Mostly in full or semi shade. Had an LGB track cleaning loco, never really did its job well as my line can be damp in areas and it was noisy as hell too while running.

At the start of the season I use my GRS track rubbing abrasive block/pad, with a U/J attachment to hold it on a broom stick, to give the line a good clean. About 15/20minutes work on that length of track. Then I have my match/speedo wagon (a 1:20.3'ified Aristo 20' gon') fitted with one of LGB's 50050 track cleaner attachments. I drop that into a consist at the start of a session for a couple of laps and reinsert it as needed. Works so well I have one of my Accucraft W&L 16 mm scale coal trucks fitted with one as well. Might as well get a little bit extra work out of the live steamers. Max

multi purpose gon 002.JPG
 
I think it’s true that it depends where you are and your local conditions. I have sandy soil and an irrigation system. I tried lots of things - LGB blocks are great, but hard work. I mounted mine on a pole which helped. The LGB sprung jobbie that screws under a wagon is good at getting grit off. Scotch green pads on a dry wall sander were quite good. In the end I bit the bullet at got an LGB track cleaning loco. Undoubtedly the best solution although not without issues. Mine failed a couple of times, and got through cleaning wheels quite fast. My routine was 1. Go round with a low power leaf blower to get debris and dust off. 2. Either run the track cleaning loco or go round with the LGB block on the pole. 3. Add the LGB wagon to the first train. All a good workout and took a good 30 mins, usually an hour each weekend before running.

I’ve gone battery power now, so the situation, needs and solutions are different.
 
OK, time for thread drift...... I run track power, analogue, and don't clean my track.

Back to the thread. I let my trains clean the track. A wee drop of 3 in 1 oil in each rail, run the heaviest loco around, and by lap 3, track is clean as a whistle. Tends to be effective in temperate climates, I do get the odd hiccup with this when running at night with dew forming, and sometimes in very hot weather the crud bakes on (but I fix that with more oil). Steep grades, don't work. Wheel slip, better that than chewing out gear trains.
Works for me.
 
I've got one LGB 4021 gondola with LGB's 5005 mounted. I had to add some lumber to keep it on the rails. It often runs directly behind the first loco of the day along with an unmodified similarly loaded mate. It does have a bit of drag but that's because it's doing its job. A 2045 Ge 2/4 can pull it and about 4 or 5 other 2 axle wagons on my 3.5% (1 in 28) grades before wheel slip occurs. That along with metal wheelsets and the loco skates seem to keep my rails from having dead spots. I did replace the pads on the 5005 a couple of weeks ago. Grooves had been worn in the pads causing some difficulty when navigating turnouts. That was after at least 50+ hours of operation. I did finally buy a LGB track cleaning block early this year but have yet to break it out.

Phil S.
 
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phils2um said:
I've got one LGB 4021 gondola with LGB's 5005 mounted. I had to add some lumber to keep it on the rails. It often runs directly behind the first loco of the day along with an unmodified similarly loaded mate. It does have a bit of drag but that's because it's doing its job. A 2045 Ge 2/4 can pull it and about 4 or 5 other 2 axle wagons on my 3.5% (1 in 28) grades before wheel slip occurs. That along with metal wheelsets and the loco skates seem to keep my rails from having dead spots. I did replace the pads on the 5005 a couple of weeks ago. Grooves had been worn in the pads causing some difficulty when navigating turnouts. That was after at least 50+ hours of operation. I did finally buy a LGB track cleaning block early this year but have yet to break it out.

Phil S.
Click to expand...
Aha the ref for the LGB Wagon cleaning pads, still available by the looks of things as 50050 at around £20. You have also mentioned all the issues that I had with mine thankfully with the reasons, I thought it was just me. I may break mine out again and use it with a good heavy wagon as that appears to be good sage advice from accross the pond!
 
Gavin Sowry said:
OK, time for thread drift...... I run track power, analogue, and don't clean my track.

Back to the thread. I let my trains clean the track. A wee drop of 3 in 1 oil in each rail, run the heaviest loco around, and by lap 3, track is clean as a whistle. Tends to be effective in temperate climates, I do get the odd hiccup with this when running at night with dew forming, and sometimes in very hot weather the crud bakes on (but I fix that with more oil). Steep grades, don't work. Wheel slip, better that than chewing out gear trains.
Works for me.
Click to expand...
I run track power, digital, and don't clean track.
What I do do, is run often and use mainly metal wheels. If a section is showing signs of stuttering then a quick rub with the LGB block. To be honest - the track cleaning loco does come out now and again - usually after very bad weather - maybe 7 or 8 times a year.
 
Well thank you one and all, some interesting comments, I do have the 50050, but it would not sit on the track two well and my little LGB did not want to pull it (re-think), other than that its looks like the LGB block on an "as required" basis.
Again many thanks, and we can now let this thread drift
 
Crude and simple - but it works. When I first started in this garden lark I fixed a bit of very fine wet & dry paper to the back of the loco with an elastic band so that it ended about an inch below rail level - so when put on the tracks it curved backwards - a quick whizz round with this every now and again seemed to keep the worst away. You do not need visibly squeaky clean track for good connectivity.
Next came this - again crude but it works.DSC01761 (Small).JPG
 
It did cross my mind that a 2nd set of skates not connected to the power might work. Has anyone tried this, although it is very similar to other suggestions.

SW
 
Replacement pads for the 50050 can be had here for as low as $5 for a pair. The LBG part no. is 67005. Massoth has similar replacements No. 8314204. A pack of 4 is around $12. Prices do not include shipping. A complete 50050 is $19 from the on-line dealer I do most of my business with, "LGB Train Shop" - pizzatrains.com
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Drywall sanding pole, with well-worn mesh sandpaper (which is really fiberglas screen). You stand up and walk it around. A friend makes these from a lead slab, the added weight makes it work even better... you could add weight on the backside. Fast and easy, and no bending over.

7759-Wal-Board-Universal-Pole-Sander-Complete-1-1k.jpg
Click to expand...
Not a lot of use to me as my track is 3-4 feet high! But great for a ground level line.
 
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