Boxcab Build, GRS Kit

Next most of the rivets were glued in place with epoxy. Superglue worked out better in the end - it penetrates the hole the rivet is in, the epoxy just glues the end of the rivet.

Some rivets were left off to allow hand rails to be glued in place and to allow for assembly of the body and shaping of the ends.

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The bodywork was then assembled and tried on the chassis:

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Showing the body with the two internal bulkheads. One has a circular cutout for the speaker. The body design should form an infinite baffle for the back of the speaker. The speaker points into one of the cabs, the sound coming out of the bottom of the cab, between the frames.

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I wired up the switches, motor block, and stuffed all the electronics into the loco for a quick test:
 
I wired up the switches, motor block, and stuffed all the electronics into the loco for a quick test:

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Now on to the detailing.

Filled, primered and sanded down the roof. Trial fitted a few roof details:

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Added hand rails to the body - brass wire and brass washers for 16BA bolts!

The brass rivets come from GRS. They do 2 sizes, small and very small. I use the small size on the chassis and the very small size on the bodywork. Come in packets of 200, for about £5.

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Boxcab on tour. Well extensive testing was required. Ran for about an hour non-stop. Sound card is great. The speed controller only got slightly warm, even when the loco de-railed and was left running for about 15 mins off the rails (ahem).

Took the boxcab into GRS today, they really like it. May make an appearance in a future catalogue!

Must get some of the coaches in the picture, they go really well with the Boxcab. Similar construction. (They are on their way!!!! Thanks Steve.)

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LED lighting circuit under test. White running light and headlight for the front of loco, red running light for rear of loco. Directional lighting from the speed controller via the LAMP-1 amplifier/switching circuit.

The LED for the headlight is so bright i've had to use a higher value resistor to reduce the brightness significantly. Have subsequently changed the LEDs for the running lights to larger 8mm ones as they fit the whitemetal castings better.

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Yes a really lovely model. I am intrigued about the rivets - are they just heads or do they have a shank (so you have to drill holes)?
 
Amazing bit of modelling there Doug, the detail is stunning. Well done! :)
 
Aye, proper rivets. Drilled loads of holes - see pic on first page of the thread.
 
I used epoxy - ran a fillet over the inside ends then pushed the rivets in/out a couple of times to get glue inside the hole :rolleyes: After the glue had set i snipped off the ends, then filed them down. Unfortunately this didn't hold all of the rivets inplace so i have superglued the loose ones. (mutter mutter).
 
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