Neil Robinson said:
chris333 said:
Thanks for the info, im not sure what the voltage of the factory version is im guessing its 18v which is why you think I need a regulator.
Most, if not all, Stainz factory smoke fitted locos do have nominal 18V smoke units. Therefore you need about 18V on the rails to make them work reasonably well. Unless you are running digital the loco will be travelling way too fast at 18V, and at sensible speeds the smoke will be disappointing.
More expensive LGB model steam locos have nominal 5V smoke units and electronics to ensure that the smoke unit voltage doesn't exceed around 6 or 7 volts. With these you only need about 8 to 10 volts on the track to get reasonable smoke due to a voltage drop in the electronics. This is what Dan's suggestion will achieve.
Another factor is the amount of smoke fluid, too much and it can't get hot enough to work.
I find that 0.5 to 0.6 ml is the optimum amount of fluid to put into an empty smoke unit, this was recently confirmed when I read an instruction sheet that stated 0.7ml maximum.
[style="background-color: #00ff00;"]As LGB don't fit a switch to 5V smoke units that permits running with the smoke unit turned off, overfilling smoke units is one way to extend their life.
The Graupner 6V smoke unit, that I feel sure is made by Suethe who used to supply LGB is available at a relatively reasonable price from model boat suppliers such as
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/model_electronics.html < Link To http://www.cornwallmodelb...model_electronics.html
or
http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/acatalog/Model_Boat_Electronics.html < Link To http://www.westbourne-mod..._Boat_Electronics.html
FYI
Something i have seen, is that it is possible to fill the thing, and run the loco, and melt the stack!!!!
I saw this on an old 2019S C and S mogul in a shop,
and will never forget it as i was so surprised. It is so obvious once you think about it.
Someone topped the stack and ran the loco a long time. The fluid will get very hot, as does the heating element. It is essentially like boiling oil inside the metal smoker and will melt the stack. But the oil gets much hotter than water.
So, between the two options of the 5v expiring or the plastic deforming, you can make a choice.
While we are on this subject, would anyone know the value of a resistor to put in line between the 5v and the track??
The chinese step down looks great, but a resistor must be smaller.
And, are the hook up points , ie in and out, obvious on the step down? , as the pic , at quick glance, appears to me, not to have an obvious hook up point.
I recently monkeyed with my own stainz, a late model #3, plastic Allen gear, -(the starter set cheapy sans smoker-non-directional lighting, no functional sockets etc)
As far as tear down, i was again reminded that they are time consuming, somewhat complex, and tight
with the idea of inserting the LGB sound box and standing sound caps, firebow flicker and smoke unit.
I gave up. While i could and did cram in the LGB unit, I wasnt pleased. So I stopped and left it stock unitl a bit more thought was given to the project. I too want the pulsed unit, but, in this aspect, the work really is an undertaking , and the loco will lose a good deal of weight.
Simple concepts often take a lot of work to execute.-