grizzmo
NW Tas
Thanks Paul M, I appreciate that.You done so well with your line, it looks absolutely brilliant!
Thanks Paul M, I appreciate that.You done so well with your line, it looks absolutely brilliant!
5 coach express working, impressiveThis mornings running, on a nice warm sunny Autumn day.
I took the day off working, it is good Friday here and I had a very relaxing time sitting in the sun watching trains go bye.
I think the little Playmobil 4010 loco does a very good job with quite a heavy train, with its original powertrain.
I did cheat a little, it is running on 6 x 1.5v Nimh batteries.5 coach express working, impressive
I have to say I would never have thought it capable of such haulage even with extra batteries, just shows how good PM was and what we have lost with it’s demise. Mine has been converted with USA power bogies. Must do a maximum haulage test at some stage.I did cheat a little, it is running on 6 x 1.5v Nimh batteries.









I think using rail for the overhead will be a great decision, may not be quite so scale but easily held in place. You could thread fishplates on the top to solder cross wires to that to give some flexibility. Also you will be able to curve the overhead (I know not prototypical) but will assist in keeping the Pan on the overhead in R1 curves.Its been a few weeks since I have had a chance to get much of anything done on the railway.
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This large rock was between the tracks behind the pond, its now on its way up above the entrance to Arosa station.
This would be a simple 5 minute job if I could get the tractor to it.Unfortunately there is 3 m3 of sand /gravel in the way. So I had to lift it the best way I could, with a crow bar and building up a base of blocks and using the stool as I slowly lifted it. Took a while.
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Up into place, sitting on a temporary support. I still had to trim the right hand side to fit the other rock. Rain got in the way of that.
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The next day after I had cut the end to match the rock on the right. Gravity and friction holds it in place ok. It will get mortared in when we get a nice day.
You can see the 10mm steel rods drilled and glued into the rocks. This is to support the catenary and mesh for a planter above and is drilled and tapped above the track centreline.
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I will cut these blocks to make a roadway above the track to link up with the wall on the right.
This is a compromise to transition from the scenic rocks and plants to the village. In reality the tunnel comes out in the village itself.
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Mesh and landscape fabric to make the centre area a planter for dwarf pines. The orange will blast off the rock to more match the other rocks, they all came from the same place.
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Rods in place for the catenary in the tunnels, you can see the 3/16 brass screws hanging down to take the wire.
Which will be o gauge bullhead rail( because I have a pack of it).
I cut a groove in the countersunk screw head and hammered it over to make a dovetailed groove.
The rail slides in and is held securely, but can expand/contract lengthwise.
The first of the catenary gantries in place at the end of the catenary system. I am not going to go over the R1 temporary loop.
As per @Nodrog1826's suggestion the extensions to guide the panto's under the catenary will be extended and the angle lowered.
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The rocks in place and are supported by the rods and will be mortared later on. Some mesh in place for planting spaces.
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Doggo lurking in the background.
The catenary through this section will just be the o gauge rail for ease of installation.
I am making a snow shelter for the gap between the bridge and gantry.
Still have the mortaring in of rocks, tunnel portals, snow shelter and to plant out the spaces.
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The frame made for the snow shelter and gantries machined, with a lot of filing left to do on them.
Its supposed to rain tomorrow, so if I am up to it I will have a crack at it. Being 1.5mm ally its not hard to do, just tedious.
Lengths of rail soldered together and bent to match the track.
Yeah, the o gauge bullhead rail will simplify running catenary through tunnels, snow shelter and to the edge.I think using rail for the overhead will be a great decision, may not be quite so scale but easily held in place. You could thread fishplates on the top to solder cross wires to that to give some flexibility. Also you will be able to curve the overhead (I know not prototypical) but will assist in keeping the Pan on the overhead in R1 curves.
I was worrying the other day how you would manage on the R1 curves with wire, need lots of pull off’s’.
I still think you may have problems on R1 curves with wire and trying to keep in tension plus keeping in place for Pan, I know we did with 4ft Radius and plus curves.Yeah, the o gauge bullhead rail will simplify running catenary through tunnels, snow shelter and to the edge.
I will be using copper wire through the rest of the system. I will be trying a support system inspired by the Ruschbahn.
The only R1s I have are points into sidings and in the temporary balloon loop which I am not going over with the catenary, the rest of the curves are R2 or bigger.I still think you may have problems on R1 curves with wire and trying to keep in tension plus keeping in place for Pan, I know we did with 4ft Radius and plus curves.
I still think you may have problems on R1 curves with wire and trying to keep in tension plus keeping in place for Pan


Oh yes forgot all that and you can of course have closer Poles as they have done on Whiteleaf and of course on real Tramways.The only R1s I have are points into sidings and in the temporary balloon loop which I am not going over with the catenary, the rest of the curves are R2 or bigger.





Very nice, if you put some arches to the front with the top line sitting down some you may not notice your height issue quite so much.Was quite a nice day and I was able to get out to the railway for a few hours.
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Finished the snow shelter frame and installed it.View attachment 355220
You can see how I slipped the o gauge rail through the slot in the screws. That worked well.
Made a big mistake, instead of lowering the height of the shelter 20mm below the normal catenary height, I managed to raise it by 10mm.
Oh well mistakes get made, it still works just doesn't look as good.
Need to paint the rail, screws and insulator black.
Apologies for my fingers in the shot.
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The foam cutter made quick work cutting the roof to match the rocks.
Still have the ends to make, a job for tomorrow I hope.
First test.
Good idea, i will put some short wall sections in to fill the gap.Very nice, if you put some arches to the front with the top line sitting down some you may not notice your height issue quite so much.
My goodness me Stewie the progress that you have made with your garden railway is astounding.






