Aristocraft Revolution DCC Battery Kit ...... help and setup? WORKING OK NOW THANKS

[dunnyrail]

Hi this system has apeared in these pages but I cannot find a specific thread so probably mostly mentioned in others where some of us have imported from the USA.

So I have finaly got my Test Rig Setup to try it out.

EDIT SEE POST 20 FOR REVISION OF THIS PICTURE WITH WIRING LABELS AND LINKING BUTTON INCLUDED


Pretty simple, old PM Chassis with Fosworks Batery and Loom to Loksound Shay Equiped Decoder. Only odd thing is the Photo Canister that allows me to swop between Track and Battery sothat I can check the chips out on Track Power.

Yes it is switched to Battery, light shows this.
Chip is making standing still noises so the system is passing power via the chip.
F keys have no effect on noises!

So have gone though

Cab Setup which has Profile 1 and Adress (presumably chip) set to 3
current Cab is:-
Cab1S
Profi-1
S*3 (dcc no?)
This should all be able to be seen on my Screen Print.
Problem is "NO LINK"
Am used to setting link on Crest Syetem but there appears to be no linking process between the Aristo Reciever and the Handset. Is this the problem or anything else?

HELP

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yes, with no link nothing happens.

What happens when you press the set button on the decoder, and enter the linking process on the throttle?

Should be simple. Section 6.4 in the manual.

Greg

 

[Zerogee]

Greg, do you mean the set button on the RECEIVER, not the decoder? And to do this, presumably the supplied momentary push-to-make switch needs to be plugged into one of the two sockets on the receiver board?
I received my sets several weeks ago now, but due to pressure of work stuff I've not had the chance to as yet do anything more than take one out of its box.....

Jon.

 

[PhilP]

Is there not a set button on the Aristo receiver board for this option? - If not, the supplied PB needs plugging in and pressing..

This is the equivalent to binding, but you have to go through the Revo menu's to set id's etc.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yes, sorry... please read section 6.4 of the manual. There is a switch on the receiver module already. You don't need to add the extra switch to do this, that is for making the linking button more convenient (it used to be called the linking button).

Just push the button, and follow directions in section 6.4.

Greg

 

[Zerogee]

Greg, thanks, but could you point me to the button on the receiver please? I've just examined one of mine again, and for the life of me I can't see a button on the board itself.... there is a socket labelled "set", which i assume is where the extemal switch plugs in?

The manual is very vague as regards actually wiring up the receiver - the power in and out screw terminals are self-explanatory, but there is virtually no other info given, and no mention of what to do with the two sockets.

Jon.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

is it not where the manual shows? Ahh sorry, mixup between base station and mobile receiver...

There is a socket for the switch (only the base station has the set button on the board - sorry)

There are 2 3-pin sockets... only one has the word "SET" next to it... plug in the pushbutton switch there... My switch has the 3 pin plug.

(the other socket is the EXT one, for future expansion)

Greg

So there are 4 connections:
1. input screw terminals (power in)
2. output screw terminals (power out to DCC decoder "track in"
3. SET socket for linking button
4. unlabelled socket for possible future expansion... not used, thus not mentioned.

Pretty straightforward for wiring since other than the "linking" process that needs the button pushed, it's 2 wires in and 2 wires out.

Greg

 

[Zerogee]

OK, that's good, confirms what little I'd already figured out from looking at the kit!
I do realise that the manual is currently only a provisional draft version - hopefully it will soon be superseded by a "final" version with all the necessary details in it.
Hopefully soon I'll get a few spare minutes to try mine out, in the meantime will be interested to hear how JonD gets on with his test rig.....

Jon.

 

[dunnyrail]

Yes, sorry... please read section 6.4 of the manual. There is a switch on the receiver module already. You don't need to add the extra switch to do this, that is for making the linking button more convenient (it used to be called the linking button).

Just push the button, and follow directions in section 6.4.

Greg

Aha Greg, never got to read that part as I glazed over where it was talking about frequencies. So 6.4 indeed does the linking which is kind of what I expected as this happens with the normal Non DCC Aristo Battery Kit. Fortunately I have a linking button and will try it all out in the morning and report back.

Anyone in UK who has ordered the Aristo Revo DCC kit could be in trouble as no 3 pin switch was included in mine.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

So, all the TE line, from day one, has had a link button and procedure, the 27 MHz, the 75 MHz, the 2.4 TE, and the 2.4 DCC TE.

The small on board units are provided with the switch with the 3 pin plug.

There is no "trackside version" of the DCC system, so Jon are you talking about the "standard" TE system or the DCC version with the onboard receiver?

Greg

 

[dunnyrail]

Talking about the DCC Board as the thread title this came with no Button. Did mention that the other Battery System "Crest" comes with a Buton for binding which is what I will be using to bind the DCC kit with. This wil be the button that is (or at least was in my DCC Order) missing for anyone who has ordered a DCC System and the problem that I was refering to.

 

[Cliff George]

You must have been unlucky, all of my DCC receivers came with the separate switch.

The switch was in the box separate from the wrapped receiver, are you sure it is not still in the box?

 

[dunnyrail]

You must have been unlucky, all of my DCC receivers came the the seperate switch.

The switch was in the box seperate from the wrapped receiver, are you sure it is not still in the box?

Oh dear so they are! Tipped the reciever out of the box and the wrapped up switches just stayed put in both boxes! Old git syndrome strikes again, sorry Aristo!

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Was about to post the same, I had to shake the box to get it to fall out.

I make it a habit to always completely disassemble all "sub boxes" in a product, and then keep all packing, twist ties, plastic bags until I'm satisfied.

Good to hear the Precision RC guys did not make a mistake... that's an awfully tiny plug to have to buy and solder on your own.

All is well in DCC-ville...

Greg

 

[dunnyrail]

All is very well in DCC-vile, having found out that the plug and linking was required I did all that and the Test Rig fired up all in order. Very happy with the set up it works just as I expected, need to do some more playing to see how to get Functions higher than 0-9 working. But that wil be in the instruction which always mean more when me when I actually have something to work with while reading them.

As I will be changing existing Locomotives to Battery DCC I will always include a DPDTCO Switch in the wiring so that I can use those Locmotives on Track Power when required and updating Chips that way. Though to be honest once I have set a Loco up to my needs I never play with the Chips again. That side of the hobby is not a hobby for me as I think it is for some of my aquaintance!

 

[beavercreek]

Have tried a few setups with my Revo DCC kit and it all works just as smoothly as the Revo DC version.
It is great that Precision are doing the manufacturing, distributing and retailing but I still think that it is a shame that ol' Aristocraft went to the wall having originally created a fine RC system in the Revolution.
But that is how the cookie crumbles and all that.
At least we have the system to use and a manufacturer/retailer who is developing it further.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

The original engineer who designed the TE owns Precision RC.. he's been constant.... Navin has been with the company forever. Crest / Aristo did not last.

Greg

 

[beavercreek]

The original engineer who designed the TE owns Precision RC.. he's been constant.... Navin has been with the company forever. Crest / Aristo did not last.

Greg

Still is a shame whatever.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yes, the Crest sales alone could not support all the Aristo people, and really Lewis wanted to retire.

Aristo was a separate company from Crest.... Crest survived a bit afterwards, but Lewis' heart was not in it. After the demise of Aristo, the Crest sales were still good, or so it appeared. That's when JK bought it out.

I wish Aristo was still in business, but Crest was always handled as a separate company, even when sold exclusively by Aristo.

Many of us were very close to the "action" here.

 

[dunnyrail]

Share thoughts about the retirement of the original owner, but at least the Crest and DCC BatteryDRS have been taken over. Both being exceptionall good products. I still live in hopes that the original Crest Sound Cards will eventualy get some Eurooean Sound Projects for us to download onto our cards.

BUT BACK TO THE DCC ARISTO KIT.

Having been plyaying about with the Aristo DCC I realised that some of my setup may be a bit confused to me after I detached the DCC Chip and Aristo Card from my Test Rig. So I have labeled up the wires. No appologies for posting this pic that apears to be a duplicate picture but hopefuly you can read the labels to understand how it is wired up. Note that I have used LGB Colour Conventions except for the Red and Black from the Battery Supply and From the Canister to the Revolution Chip. The Black and White Curled Wire from the DCC Chip is to the Speaker. I have also used a Fosworks No.1 Loom for the Main Power/Charge/On Off wiring. Oh and the Aristo Linking Button, Black and White Curled wire from the Aristo Card has been added well.